can a 60 amp Alternator be swapped out with a 200 Amp Alternator without any mods?

[shawnshumvee]

Hello. have a quick question. can a 60 amp Alternator be swapped out with a 200 Amp (dual volt) Alternator without any modification. I have a chance to buy one ( really cheap) but i don't know if it will bolt right in and hook up to my electrical? i know the pully has to be swapped from serpentine too belt.
any help would be welcomed.

 

[NormB]

Um, not really. There’s a kit, #57K3520 that supplies all the parts you’ll need for the alternator update. It uses a different bracket, LONG bolt, much heavier duty cable to the + (pos) stud in the battery box, and more.

I’m in the throes of getting mine installed, just painted the power steering pump bracket, about ready to start reassembling everything.

Look for the kit, though. You really need it.

I got mine AND a rebuilt Melton industries 200A alternator about 2 years ago for about $400 - which I thought was a lot of money at the time.

 

[TOBASH]

The 60Amp battery will flow all amperage through the PCB. A 200 Amp needs a shunt to bypass or you will blow the PCB and several other vital circuits.

NormB has listed the necessary kit needed to swap.

That is the SHORT answer.

 

[Big Tom]

Yes just done one worked out great hummer parts guy send me all the brackets and alt. Went right on

Big Tom

 

[shawnshumvee]

Thanks for the help. I'm really not sure if i need an Alternator? Moreover it going to cost a bit more money to upgrade. now having said that, I lost power to glow plugs a while back no power coming out of the PCB to the Glow blog) and now my alternator gauge is stuck in the yellow (see picture) and my blower fan doesn't work. so I'm hoping i can just
replace the PCB and everything is good?

 

[NormB]

Thanks for the help. I'm really not sure if i need an Alternator? Moreover it going to cost a bit more money to upgrade. now having said that, I lost power to glow plugs a while back no power coming out of the PCB to the Glow blog) and now my alternator gauge is stuck in the yellow (see picture) and my blower fan doesn't work. so I'm hoping i can just
replace the PCB and everything is good?

View attachment 758890View attachment 758891View attachment 758892

Alternator should be putting out north of 24 volts. Could be alternator, regulator, PCB would be last on my list of concerns.

Go back to the troubleshooting section on testing alternaotr, but clean up your connections/terminals first, check grounds.

I’d connect the alternator housing - ground - directly to battery ground for testing, bypass the ground harness and all the other connections.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Alternator should be out putting 27.5-28.5, your generator is dead, or at least you regulator died.

 

[shawnshumvee]

Correct. Here’s the deal. I was driving the Humvee yesterday and I don’t know how, what or why but the truck started charging, yeah weird. I have a digital volt gauge installed and I was driving down the road and happen to to look at my Digital gauge and it read 27.9 volts and my blower motor also started to work again. So I shut the truck down and then started it again and then the gauge read 23. 8. I reved it up and the gauge jumped up to 27.9 again. And then again I shut it down and started it up again and was unable to get 27.9. again. So that’s where I’m at now. I did install a new ground wire harness so I don’t think it’s that. Also has anyone seen the YouTube video where a guy installed a civilian style 24 V alternator on his humvee?

 

[shawnshumvee]

Been reading the TM and it all seem to be pointing to the PCB?

TM 9-2320-20-1 Alternator section page 2-196

1. ARE ALTERNATOR DRIVEBELTS/ SERPENTINE BELT TIGHT AND IN GOOD CONDITION (NO CRACKS, FRAYS, OR GLAZE)?

Answer: yes!

2. ARE ALL WIRE CONNECTIONSTO ALTERNATOR CLEAN, TIGHT, AND MAKING GOOD CONNECTION?

Answer: yes!


3. WITH ROTARY SWITCH IN “RUN” POSITION (ENGINE NOT RUNNING), DO YOU HAVE BATTERY VOLTAGE AT ALTERNATOR OUTPUT TERMINAL ?
IS THE STARTER MOTOR VOLTAGE THE SAME AS BATTERY VOLTAGE?

Answer NO!

Go To A Page 2-202

Page 2-202

A1. IS THE STARTER MOTOR VOLTAGE THE SAME AS BATTERY VOLTAGE?

Answer Yes!

A2. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY NEGATIVE CABLE. DISCONNECT ENGINE CONNECTOR AT PCB/DISTRIBUTION BOX. RECONNECT THE BATTERY NEGATIVE CABLE. IS THERE BATTERY VOLTAGE AT SOCKET E OF THE PCB/DISTRIBUTION BOX ENGINE CONNECTOR HARNESS ?

Answer: yes i have voltage

A3. REMOVE THE BATTERY NEGATIVE CABLE. IS THERE CONTINUITY (LESS THAN 20 OHMS RESISTANCE) FROM SOCKET F OF PCB/DISTRIBUTION BOX ENGINE CONNECTOR HARNESS TO WIRE 5A END AT ALTERNATOR?

Answer: Yes!

Final solution: REPLACE PCB/DISTRIBUTION BOX



Thats what the TN says and those are the step i did. But i don't get voltage from the 5A output alternator wire. Question Can someone tell me what the 2A and 568 wires are for or where do that go?

 

[90Jimmy]

Correct. Here’s the deal. I was driving the Humvee yesterday and I don’t know how, what or why but the truck started charging, yeah weird. I have a digital volt gauge installed and I was driving down the road and happen to to look at my Digital gauge and it read 27.9 volts and my blower motor also started to work again. So I shut the truck down and then started it again and then the gauge read 23. 8. I reved it up and the gauge jumped up to 27.9 again. And then again I shut it down and started it up again and was unable to get 27.9. again. So that’s where I’m at now. I did install a new ground wire harness so I don’t think it’s that. Also has anyone seen the YouTube video where a guy installed a civilian style 24 V alternator on his humvee?

I saw the video where a guy installed a 24 volt civilian style alternator on a HMMWV...watched it on the you tubes.

 

[NormB]

Thats what the TN says and those are the step i did. But i don't get voltage from the 5A output alternator wire. Question Can someone tell me what the 2A and 568 wires are for or where do that go?

Somewhere in this site's bowels (can I say that on this board?) there exists a LIST of common military wire codes. Those little numbers on the aluminum clips have been around a LONG time and for some inexplicable reason the military chiefs decided to STANDARDIZE them so the same number on one vehicle connects to the same circuit on another. Otherwise the tabs would be inches long or have letters, color codes, etc.

Small blessing.

I think it's in a genset forum?

Look around, or maybe someone else can direct you straightaway.

Norm

 

[NormB]

Her,: courtesy of Juan Prado: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?163769-Military-Wire-ID-tag-master-code-list

 

[NormB]

Here: courtesy of Juan Prado: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?163769-Military-Wire-ID-tag-master-code-list

 

[shawnshumvee]

I saw the video where a guy installed a 24 volt civilian style alternator on a HMMWV...watched it on the you tubes.

And?

 

[shawnshumvee]

Here: courtesy of Juan Prado: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?163769-Military-Wire-ID-tag-master-code-list

Thanks but are these accurate? some numbers aren't matching up?

 

[NormB]

2a - Code list says it should be to generator armature circuit.

"Load dump", (from wikipedia): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Load_dump

"In automotive electronics, it refers to the disconnection of the vehicle battery from the alternator while the battery is being charged. Due to such a disconnection of the battery, other loads connected to the alternator see a surge in power line. The peak voltage of this surge may be as high as 120 V and the surge may take up to 400 ms to decay. It is typically clamped to 40 V in 12 V vehicles and about 60 V in 24 V systems."

This circuit keeps the voltage spikes from frying wiring/bulbs/etc.

568 should be ignition switch to alternator.

Finding a CLEAR, LARGE print copy of the HMMWV A1 and A2 wiring schematics was such a chore, i gave up.

About two years ago I'd posted here ISO, was directed to several different manuals, and no matter how I tried, even on a large-format printer system at UPS could NOT reproduce the schematic to where I could actually read the wire numbers.

What I had on screen, when the image was enlarged, it became so pixelated as to be useless.

YMMV. But it SOUNDS like you've got a circuit wiring/connection issue. I'd focus on the alternator/regulator connections first, ID, trace, disconnect, clean, rub with steel wool/3M green pad, use DEOXIT, make sure those are right and reconnect, start over with troubleshooting. then consider replacing the PCB.

ALWAYS disconnect ground before ANY wiring work. Even changing a frigging light bulb. Probably overkill, but it can't hurt.

Keep us posted.

NB

 

[NormB]

2a - Code list says it should be to generator armature circuit.

"Load dump", (from wikipedia): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Load_dump

"In automotive electronics, it refers to the disconnection of the vehicle battery from the alternator while the battery is being charged. Due to such a disconnection of the battery, other loads connected to the alternator see a surge in power line. The peak voltage of this surge may be as high as 120 V and the surge may take up to 400 ms to decay. It is typically clamped to 40 V in 12 V vehicles and about 60 V in 24 V systems."

This circuit keeps the voltage spikes from frying wiring/bulbs/etc.

568 should be ignition switch to alternator.

Finding a CLEAR, LARGE print copy of the HMMWV A1 and A2 wiring schematics was such a chore, i gave up.

About two years ago I'd posted here ISO, was directed to several different manuals, and no matter how I tried, even on a large-format printer system at UPS could NOT reproduce the schematic to where I could actually read the wire numbers.

What I had on screen, when the image was enlarged, it became so pixelated as to be useless.

YMMV. But it SOUNDS like you've got a circuit wiring/connection issue. I'd focus on the alternator/regulator connections first, ID, trace, disconnect, clean, rub with steel wool/3M green pad, use DEOXIT, make sure those are right and reconnect, start over with troubleshooting. then consider replacing the PCB.

ALWAYS disconnect ground before ANY wiring work. Even changing a frigging light bulb. Probably overkill, but it can't hurt.

Keep us posted.

NB

EDIT: M997 but some circuits useful. chrome-extension://oemmndcbldboiebfnladdacbdfmadadm/https://www.flashoffroad.com/hmmwv/electrical/hmmwvSchematics/M997schematic.pdf

 

[shawnshumvee]

Update! I have no idea what the heck is going on? I was messing with the 2A Wire, (see picture) and all of a sudden the volt gauge shot up and started charging perfect! I wiggled the wire again and lost charging again. So a bad wire one would guess, right? Wrong! I thought it was a bad wire also, so i shut the truck down and restarted it once again to see if i could get the same results, and no mater what didi with that wire the truck would not charge. So after a few mins later i got in the truck and was about to shut it down and I tapped the gas( just to rev it up fro the heck of it) and the gauge started charging again. I unhooked the wire and it didn't bother the charging, it was still charging. So i once again shut he truck down to see if i could duplicate the same results and of course i couldn't. After restart the charging was at 23.5 volts.

 

[good]

I'm having a similar issue but when I test the regulator post when it's charging I'm getting 27.8 but when it goes down to the yellow I'm getting 23.7 so I don't know if it's the alternator going bad or the regulator when I stop the car and restart it it goes on green once I drive it for a few minutes ago to Yellow trying to figure it out to alternator guide told me that the brushes inside were going bad

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

99.9% of the time it’s a bad regulator