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Big guess for the one on the dash. Field mod for a convoy light ??
That's all I got, CAMO
That's all I got, CAMO
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Probably, not important to know, right?
Just, please, Dave86. It's never been tested. Nobody knows WHAT will happen:
- Don't push the red button....
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That's a hefty load!Found a great way to smooth the ride out, add 1500lb of soaking pressure treated lumber in the back! It drove so smooth!
Any clue on the correct designation for the LED version of these? I have tried searching, but those two numbers do not seem to have LED equivalents listed.LIGHT BULBS
Last weekend I chased down new tail light bulbs for an M1101 trailer that I had to convert back to 24v- for use with my M998. Because the tail light fixtures are the same as hmmwv, I'll tell you the story. Someone had wired it to run 12v for towing behind something more civilian (I'm guessing). Anyway, for what its worth, this is what I learned and can share about that effort; Correct 28v bulb numbers are 623 (running lights/driving lights) and 1683 (brakes/turn signals) NAPA wants $7 each for these?!? LOL! And thats if you can get them. Hate to say it- but A-zon wins again here. found a 10 pack of each for $10 each. Just search for CEC Industries 623 bulb, and CEC Industries 1683 bulb. Now I'll have bulbs until the turn of the century- but still worth it to me.
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I do not know the id for led equivalent. I would imagine you could use the 12v #1156 number to find a 24v led equivalent led "bulb" for the turn/brake light. I cant remember off hand what the 12v equvalent number is for those smaller 623's...
First actual modification I did to mine was a keyed battery disconnect. Adds both security from unauthorized starting attempts, but also security from shorting out components by being dumb and not disconnecting batteries first. Also saves a lot of wear and tear on both the seat latches and my back, that high backed seat ain't exactly light.Not to be the pain in the butt... BUT it as been said a ZILLION times here, that when working on the electrical system, DISCONNECT THE BATTERIES !!! There I said it. Cheapest insurance to prevent an electrical catastrophe.
Only YOU can prevent HUMMWV fires, CAMO
*snip*
I have been doing a lot on my M1045 A2. I removed all of the old foam which lined the inner roof of the cab and the slant back. This was a messy job as the foam had broken down and flew all over when it was pulled out. When pulling it off it left a sticky residue which I had to use a sharp scraper and a lot of elbow grease. I would like to replace the foam headliner so if anyone knows where I can find pre-cut OEM foam, or a viable replacement please let me know.
I most recently have been diagnosing a cooling issue and I think it is a faulty thermostatic switch. I flushed and filled the coolant system as part of diagnosing the cooling issue. I found the correct, made in the USA, thermostat at a local auto parts store. It is a Stant part number 13479. This thermostat will also fit the 6.2 L engine. After doing the flush and thermostat change she is still getting too hot so I will be ordering the thermostatic switch and replacing that next.
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I have been doing a lot on my M1045 A2. I removed all of the old foam which lined the inner roof of the cab and the slant back. This was a messy job as the foam had broken down and flew all over when it was pulled out. When pulling it off it left a sticky residue which I had to use a sharp scraper and a lot of elbow grease. I would like to replace the foam headliner so if anyone knows where I can find pre-cut OEM foam, or a viable replacement please let me know.
I most recently have been diagnosing a cooling issue and I think it is a faulty thermostatic switch. I flushed and filled the coolant system as part of diagnosing the cooling issue. I found the correct, made in the USA, thermostat at a local auto parts store. It is a Stant part number 13479. This thermostat will also fit the 6.2 L engine. After doing the flush and thermostat change she is still getting too hot so I will be ordering the thermostatic switch and replacing that next.
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The part numbers 12551497, 12559337 are interchangeable, with 12559337 superseding the former. When doing a search for 12559337 it returns the thermostat with the rubber boot. The thermostat which I pulled out of my 6.5L 1045 was the same as the thermostat in my 6.2 HMMWV, part number 14077122 (Stant 13479). To add to the confusion, some manufacturers, such as Stant, show these as fitting both the 6.2 and 6.5 liter engines, hence my statement that they interchange. I also read that the thermostats with the rubber boot only fit the GEP engines, mine is a Melton. That being said, I am not a mechanic, so if the thermostat I replaced is incorrect, I will swap it out and happily edit my posts accordingly.That 6.5 in your M1045 does not use the same thermostat as a 6.2, the 6.5 and 6.5 Turbo motor use a 12551497.
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