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MEP005A 5volts only

peapvp

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How many volts do you have on that block when F1 and F2 are connected while the Start switch is being held in Start and do you know roughly of what your rpm is when running?
You indicated that the Genset was running / showing 50Hz with only a few Volts - this would indicate a low rpm

60Hz equates to exactly 1800 RPM


I have 24 volts there. On the block. Only when the start switch is held.
 

Guyfang

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How many volts do you have on that block when F1 and F2 are connected while the Start switch is being held in Start and do you know roughly of what your rpm is when running?
You indicated that the Genset was running / showing 50Hz with only a few Volts - this would indicate a low rpm

60Hz equates to exactly 1800 RPM
If the hertz meter is showing 50 hertz, then there has to be some AC voltage. The meter reads from a 120 volt signal at the A2 freq converter.
 

pf.hal1984

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How many volts do you have on that block when F1 and F2 are connected while the Start switch is being held in Start and do you know roughly of what your rpm is when running?
You indicated that the Genset was running / showing 50Hz with only a few Volts - this would indicate a low rpm

60Hz equates to exactly 1800 RPM
3 volts when switch is held. And the RPMs are maxed out definitely over 1800
 

peapvp

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Guy,

In his first post he stated:

So I was recently tasked to get this generator working. I only get 5 volts from the 120ac power outlet when I'm holding the start switch and maxing out generator speed. 50hz on the gauge. Once i release the start switch everything goes back to 0. The batteries are not charging as well. It runs perfect. I'm leaning towards the voltage regulator/excitor. If it is this part, what exact part would go out in it to cause neither side to generate power?
 

Guyfang

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Guy, "Hook it all back up and unhook F1 and F2."

How would he get 24V on F1 and F2 if they are disconnected from the Terminal Block? Those are the two wires into the Genset Head
Hooked up or connected, the voltage should be measured there. Voltage on F1 and F2 comes from the A11.
 

peapvp

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K5 applies 24V to the exciter coil while in start position through one or two in series connected Resistors to limit the Current in the Exciter Coil
The coil has a 2 Ohm DC resistance and that would equate to 12 Amps without current limiting resistors.
I believe those current limiting resistors are in the special relay box and should be checked after guys last test of Gnd to F1 and Gnd to F2
 

peapvp

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F1 I get 3 volts. F2 0 volts. That's connected with my jumper switch on. Now when I disconnected f1 and f2 I get 24 volts with jumper on.
0V on F2 is correct - it connects to GND in A11

F1 staying at 3V indicates that the Voltage Regulator Card is bad. You may want to check Q1 and Q2 (SCR's) which are the ones on the small heat sinks on the PCB

A11 full.jpg
 

peapvp

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Ok pf.hal1984

Our friend Brian / flydude checked the Voltage on F1/F2 on his functioning 005A sometime ago and got what you got but during start and then in run - this clearly is starting to point your A11

We also know from past experience that a A11 with working VR Board but blown Transformer T2 will still come up to ~ 100VAC during start but then drops to 0V when released to Run because of the bad Transformer T2 and a bad Cap C2

A11 needs to be bench tested as to the diagram above outside the genset - this is the only way for us to find the cause

 

Guyfang

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Ok pf.hal1984

Our friend Brian / flydude checked the Voltage on F1/F2 on his functioning 005A sometime ago and got what you got but during start and then in run - this clearly is starting to point your A11

We also know from past experience that a A11 with working VR Board but blown Transformer T2 will still come up to ~ 100VAC during start but then drops to 0V when released to Run because of the bad Transformer T2 and a bad Cap C2

A11 needs to be bench tested as to the diagram above outside the genset - this is the only way for us to find the cause


Morning!
Roger on this post. I would look at the volt reg card. Its fixable, or if you are lucky, findable.
 

peapvp

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Phil,

I guess you are referring to this video here:


If so, well this doesn't work with the MEP's - they are more sophisticated then that.

Btw. is there a chance that the reconnection board is loose in this Generator? A loose or missing reconnection board could cause the same problem as what your experience, since all the Gauges and your Outlet is connecting to the under side off it?


I won't be doing that. I seen that video of a guy using a drill to get his generator to light off.
 
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