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Your truck so do it the way you feel comfortable. I will bring my beam torque wrench if I come to the Ga. rally this year if we even still have it and just for smitts and giggles lets see how close to specs we can get your way. Now as for your toys yea close enough but when running commercially that I did everyday all day I took wheel torque a little more serious and still do. I had a responsibility to myself / truck and to others on the road. I bought my first truck a GMC General in 1981 and would put 25 tons in the bed and run with it. Now just in the bed I was only 5 tons less than you whole truck empty weight plus your 15 tons of cargo. So you can see why I go a different direction than "some'' when it comes to doing wheels as it is not my first rodeo. For those who like trucks thought I would add the 47 Ford I had at the same time since I was digging for pictures. Wish I still had the Ford.I’m probably going to get the peanut gallery blasting on me again, but how I’ve torqued with one of them is start all nuts, snug up in proper sequence, tighten 1 & 2 in sequence down tight; how I find “tight” where it’s a deuce, 5 ton, 7 ton, is the same. Tighten until that tool gets tough to turn, don’t go crazy, at a certain point it will begin to not turn the socket as fast, you’ll feel it binding more, stop turning and see if the handle wants to kick back opposite. If it kicks back 3/4 of a handle turn stop, do that with all nuts, then start back at 1 and go through them all making sure they are uniform.
You’re exploiting the bolt stretch point and stopping before the max yield. Doing this method and checking with a torque wrench has GENERALLY netted me a 50-80 ft ib over spec. It’s a touch-feel thing, and if not done correct, you’ll stretch studs and lose a wheel when they break.
**I don’t recommend my method, but it works great for me, and I’ve never had a problem. Your mileage may vary**
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