Roadside lug nut tool options...

[Floridianson]

I’m probably going to get the peanut gallery blasting on me again, but how I’ve torqued with one of them is start all nuts, snug up in proper sequence, tighten 1 & 2 in sequence down tight; how I find “tight” where it’s a deuce, 5 ton, 7 ton, is the same. Tighten until that tool gets tough to turn, don’t go crazy, at a certain point it will begin to not turn the socket as fast, you’ll feel it binding more, stop turning and see if the handle wants to kick back opposite. If it kicks back 3/4 of a handle turn stop, do that with all nuts, then start back at 1 and go through them all making sure they are uniform.

You’re exploiting the bolt stretch point and stopping before the max yield. Doing this method and checking with a torque wrench has GENERALLY netted me a 50-80 ft ib over spec. It’s a touch-feel thing, and if not done correct, you’ll stretch studs and lose a wheel when they break.

**I don’t recommend my method, but it works great for me, and I’ve never had a problem. Your mileage may vary**


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Your truck so do it the way you feel comfortable. I will bring my beam torque wrench if I come to the Ga. rally this year if we even still have it and just for smitts and giggles lets see how close to specs we can get your way. Now as for your toys yea close enough but when running commercially that I did everyday all day I took wheel torque a little more serious and still do. I had a responsibility to myself / truck and to others on the road. I bought my first truck a GMC General in 1981 and would put 25 tons in the bed and run with it. Now just in the bed I was only 5 tons less than you whole truck empty weight plus your 15 tons of cargo. So you can see why I go a different direction than "some'' when it comes to doing wheels as it is not my first rodeo. For those who like trucks thought I would add the 47 Ford I had at the same time since I was digging for pictures. Wish I still had the Ford.

 

[simp5782]

...I'm still gonma want something faster than the torque multiplier, for spinning them on and off after they're broken loose. What is the tool of choice there? Star wrench? Flex-head breaker bar? Sliding T-handle breaker bar? Ratchet?

Dewalt 20v brushless or a Milwaukee fuel series 18v 1/2" gun will take em off once the multiplier breaks em loose. I tighten them all down with the electric gun then I put the multiplier for turning them a 1/8 to 1/4 turn beyond what the impact gun would do. This is on budd wheels I use so should be easier to gauge torque on the hub pilots.

 

[simp5782]

another option you have is a robogun if you want to stay true to the military stuff. Some folks here love em. Some think they are junk. I was never impressed with them.

I haven't seen one for sale in awhile. They were all over ebay and classifieds a few years back

If I could find the slave powered welder then we are talking.



You also can go with a Swench unit

 

[Floridianson]

Wess I believe you can tell us the feeling you get when you see one of your tires passing you on the highway. I have never had it happen but if it did I can only think of what a 300 / 600 pound tire could do to a car / driver. I follow the manufacture instructions and just use a couple drops of oil. What you have to watch out for with the never-seize is getting it on the face of the nut where it contacts the wheel. Now I did use never-seize on the M37 and I applied to on the studs and the threads of the nuts. I ran each nut all the way down on each stud wheel off then removed the nuts and cleaned up what gathers as the nut runs down on the stud. To much and the excess can end up as said on the face of the wheel where it is not supposed to be.

 

[simp5782]

Wess I believe you can tell us the feeling you get when you see one of your tires passing you on the highway. I have never had it happen but if it did I can only think of what a 300 / 600 pound tire could do to a car / driver. I follow the manufacture instructions and just use a couple drops of oil. What you have to watch out for with the never-seize is getting it on the face of the nut where it contacts the wheel. Now I did use never-seize on the M37 and I applied to on the studs and the threads of the nuts. I ran each nut all the way down on each stud wheel off then removed the nuts and cleaned up what gathers as the nut runs down on the stud. To much and the excess can end up as said on the face of the wheel where it is not supposed to be.

It didn't run away. And the lugs didn't come loose.