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M936 Rear Winch Operations - Safety Question

Mullaney

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My rear winch operates like a champ. Question is this: Standing about where the white shop towel is to operate it doesn't give you anywhere to hide (duck, get out of the way, call it what you will...) if something goes wrong. I have heard a winch cable flying through the air before and it is a pretty ominous sound.

Am I over thinking this?

If the outrigger was out and down, it would provide some protection. Not much but that steel is a whole lot tougher than me... The obvious answer is to stop when the truck starts groaning or the cable starts creaking... Other 9XX trucks don't have that feature so there has to be a plan?

M936 Rear Winch Controls 02.jpgM936 Rear Winch Controls 01.jpg
 

charlesmann

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W/O getting to spendy, even if you didnt fully deploy the rigger (just let it dangle). 1 could drill n tap a 1/4” hole in a couple places and put a piece of expanded steel that’ll help block some of the impact. Proper rigging (hook opening face up, and even use a rug draped over the cable) can help with reducing the cable from coming back and biting you.
when i got my parts truck dropped off, i used the drag winch to pretty much dead drag the 936a2 parts tck with 3 flat tires. I only single lined the pull and had to deploy the chock block to keep the truck from being dragged backwards.
 

simp5782

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You can do a swing out cage. The M816s had a grate in the rear of the bed from where you operated the winch there

So just some grating on some hinges.

Or you can buy the electricHydraulic solenoid and run the rear winch with a wireless keyfob


You could take a HET ladder and mount it back there. Put some grating over it. It had hinges and can pivot open and you could put a hold lock for when its open.

Or leave the grating off and just use it as a ladder as well for easier access

@Suprman has them on his eBay page

 

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Mullaney

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Thanks charlesmann . I suppose pulling from a very slight angle would help as well. Making the cable fly past if something does go wrong...
 

Mullaney

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Thanks Wes! I saw a post somewhere here on Steel Soldiers about a remote for a front winch. That really seems like a heck of a plan. That completely solves standing on that back corner!

The boarding ladder might be good too. I definitely got tired of climbing up and down today...
 

simp5782

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Thanks Wes! I saw a post somewhere here on Steel Soldiers about a remote for a front winch. That really seems like a heck of a plan. That completely solves standing on that back corner!

The boarding ladder might be good too. I definitely got tired of climbing up and down today...
It will make it a slow winch. 10gpm max.

Least those winches have got a free spool option

 

Mullaney

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Okay, so goofy question...

If I step it down using a 10gpm valve - how does that affect the rated pulling capacity? Still the same as it was - but dog slow doing it?
 

charlesmann

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I saw a post somewhere here on Steel Soldiers about a remote for a front winch. That really seems like a heck of a plan. That completely solves standing on that back corner!
If its the post im thinking, its a lordan wireless remote system.
i thought bout going that route, but i can use the $700+ on other projects that are more pressing for funds.
I also thought getting a 12v dc 2500# atv winch to use to help drag cable since there is no free spool.
 

simp5782

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If its the post im thinking, its a lordan wireless remote system.
i thought bout going that route, but i can use the $700+ on other projects that are more pressing for funds.
I also thought getting a 12v dc 2500# atv winch to use to help drag cable since there is no free spool.
You can use any keyfob from a car alarm. You are using the electric solenoid and the alarm keyfob sends power to each direction on the solenoid on which ever button. Even a 40$ car alarm

@Mullaney is lucky. His winches all have free spool.

Problem with electric atv winches is they don't have enough cable to run to a block and back

The HET payout winches are cheap on govplanet and have alot of cable. Just T off the rear Hydraulic feed
 

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charlesmann

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You can use any keyfob from a car alarm. You are using the electric solenoid and the alarm keyfob sends power to each direction on the solenoid on which ever button. Even a 40$ car alarm
I wouldnt know the first place to start with wiring in a car alarm. Im sure i could figure it out. But instead of using a solenoir like what you posted from surplus center, a linear actuator with X lbs of push/pull force connected to the in/out lever would be better. Even that could be linked with the alarm system and still keep the speed and full gpm flow.
 

Mullaney

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You can use any keyfob from a car alarm. You are using the electric solenoid and the alarm keyfob sends power to each direction on the solenoid on which ever button. Even a 40$ car alarm

@Mullaney is lucky. His winches all have free spool.

Problem with electric atv winches is they don't have enough cable to run to a block and back

The HET payout winches are cheap on govplanet and have alot of cable. Just T off the rear Hydraulic feed
I was definitely impressed with the free spool. Pushed the botton and hauled the cable about 75 feet over into the woods. Threw a chain around the base of a fairly large tree and snugged it up. Hooked the cable to the chain, released the truck brakes and it pulled with zero effort. Didn't want to trench up the back yard - so that was the end of my test.

QUESTION: That looks like your tractor. The quick disconnect on the air tank. Is that to air up tires?Could you use it to run an air wrench? I know it wouldn't do all the lugs on a wheel one after the other (based on CFM expended) but I don't see a 4 Way Lug Wrench in the BI either ;-)
 
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Mullaney

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I wouldnt know the first place to start with wiring in a car alarm. Im sure i could figure it out. But instead of using a solenoir like what you posted from surplus center, a linear actuator with X lbs of push/pull force connected to the in/out lever would be better. Even that could be linked with the alarm system and still keep the speed and full gpm flow.
Hi CharlesMann

A linear actuator would be pretty slick too.

I keep thinking that maybe I might be adding more complication to what is already a pretty complex truck. Installing a 2 foot piece of expanded metal is something mechanical and sometimes simple is better. That may be what I do.

Cool part about coming here to ask questions it that there are all kinds of solutions to a problem. The wiring looked pretty simple to me. Stepping 24v down to 12v for that valve body would take more effort than the actual wiring for me anyhow. Installing a Zener Diode in the line would step 24 down to 12 . There may be a better plan but that was my first thought.
 

simp5782

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Hi CharlesMann

A linear actuator would be pretty slick too.

I keep thinking that maybe I might be adding more complication to what is already a pretty complex truck. Installing a 2 foot piece of expanded metal is something mechanical and sometimes simple is better. That may be what I do.

Cool part about coming here to ask questions it that there are all kinds of solutions to a problem. The wiring looked pretty simple to me. Stepping 24v down to 12v for that valve body would take more effort than the actual wiring for me anyhow. Installing a Zener Diode in the line would step 24 down to 12 . There may be a better plan but that was my first thought.
@Suprman has 24v to 12v equalizers. I run one in my tractor

100amp. Requires a 24v cont duty and 12v cont duty solenoid to separate it on power. They are reasonably priced
 

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simp5782

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I was definitely impressed with the free spool. Pushed the botton and hauled the cable about 75 feet over into the woods. Threw a chain around the base of a fairly large tree and snugged it up. Hooked the cable to the chain, released the truck brakes and it pulled with zero effort. Didn't want to trench up the back yard - so that was the end of my test.

QUESTION: That looks like your tractor. The quick disconnect on the air tank. Is that to air up tires?Could you use it to run an air wrench? I know it wouldn't do all the lugs on a wheel one after the other (based on CFM expended) but I don't see a 4 Way Lug Wrench in the BI either ;-)
It could but it requires alot of air to run tools. I use a 20v Dewalt electric impact for removing lugs.

I just use it for tires or to release the brakes on a dead truck like I did your wrecker

@Csm Davis has the military torque multiplier for removing lugs. Or you can buy a Swench torque multiplier found on ebay
 

simp5782

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I was definitely impressed with the free spool. Pushed the botton and hauled the cable about 75 feet over into the woods. Threw a chain around the base of a fairly large tree and snugged it up. Hooked the cable to the chain, released the truck brakes and it pulled with zero effort. Didn't want to trench up the back yard - so that was the end of my test.

QUESTION: That looks like your tractor. The quick disconnect on the air tank. Is that to air up tires?Could you use it to run an air wrench? I know it wouldn't do all the lugs on a wheel one after the other (based on CFM expended) but I don't see a 4 Way Lug Wrench in the BI either ;-)
 

Mullaney

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It could but it requires a lot of air to run tools. I use a 20v Dewalt electric impact for removing lugs.

I just use it for tires or to release the brakes on a dead truck like I did your wrecker

@Csm Davis has the military torque multiplier for removing lugs. Or you can buy a Swench torque multiplier found on ebay

I saw something on here about adding a couple of extra air tanks for the volume and the possibility of air tools. I like the idea of a 20v DeWalt though!

I have already picked up a 50ft air hose in 3/4". I had planned to use a glad hand to connect it to the truck on the emergency side.

I have been talking with @Csm Davis about a BI setup and adding the military torque multiplier might be a really good thing to do. There is no such thing as too many ways to fix something in the dead of night and on the side of the road...

We have already talked about you hauling my "bounty" to Charlotte at your leisure. He still needs to get everything collected up too, so it may not happen quickly.
 

simp5782

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I saw something on here about adding a couple of extra air tanks for the volume and the possibility of air tools. I like the idea of a 20v DeWalt though!

I have already picked up a 50ft air hose in 3/4". I had planned to use a glad hand to connect it to the truck on the emergency side.

I have been talking with @Csm Davis about a BI setup and adding the military torque multiplier might be a really good thing to do. There is no such thing as too many ways to fix something in the dead of night and on the side of the road...

We have already talked about you hauling my "bounty" to Charlotte at your leisure. He still needs to get everything collected up too, so it may not happen quickly.
Remember the emergency gladhands on the m939s is only a 2.5gal tank feed. The wet tank and that's it. It gets the first air from the compressor but it can not draw from the primary or secondary tanks due to check valves
 

Mullaney

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Ah... Okay. That explains the quick connect rather than a glad hand. Thank you. Saved me a lot of mumbling and grumbling when nothing was happening!
 
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