camarossguy2
Member
- 75
- 81
- 18
- Location
- NE FL
My 'corona' project has been to install A/c in the m1009.
I have seen quite a few posts here of people asking about a/c, a few post of members installing an aftermarket kits...I may have missed it, but i never saw a factory civi a/c installed on a m1009.
Anyway, it was actually quite a bit more work then I imagined, seemed like every step it was fitting back at me lol, I dont know how good the aftermarket kits are, but as long as they are adequate, I'd suggest using one of them lol.
I acquired the plastics from craigslist, bought all the parts that touch Freon new. I originally was going to convert to a serpentine belt from a 6.5, but simply had a hell of a time finding any parts. After talking to a local friend who just converted his 6.2 to a serp setup, I opted to stay V-belt. Plus he gave me a great deal on the brackets for the pass alt and drivers compressor.
First off my m1009 was already converted to 12v, but for some reason the PO removed the pass alt and bracket, and left only the drivers.
First step was to remove the alt brackets and install the civi alt bracket on the pass side. My m1009 alt was to big, so i just used the civi one. I then installed the compressor on the drivers side.
Had to back out the original pass alt bolt that had been sheard off in the head. got lucky!
Next I took apart the dash, removed all the stock heater box parts. Over simplified, I made a template, cut the firewall hole, patched the old heater hole. Cut a hole for the center vent. in the dash frame
Next condenser goes in
One of the harder parts was dealing with the m1009 specific parts that interfere with a/c. I obviously knew about the blackout switches, I debated making a custom vent, but ultimately just moved the switches and stickers below the vent.
The surprise was the Evap box pretty much was in the way of everything. not to mention, the bottom bolts alone took several hours grrrr
My spin on fuel filter had to be moved over ~1.5". its new place it was way to close to the valve cover, so i had to ditch the huge 9" long volvo filter i had for a shorter 5" wix.
Next I had to move the main power bus closer to the fender. Now most of the cables didnt reach, so amazon to the rescue for a bunch of 0/1 gauge cables.
The evap box also is in conflict with the battery, which has to be moved more forward. With my turbo, I had to get quite creative with routing my a/c lines and bends.
My side project was to figure out the wiring. I took this as the opportunity to open up all the loops and clean everything up. I feel like I actually understand the changes made. Im a lot happier now that ive solder the connections and removed the unneeded wires
Having had a few square bodies before, I knew the A/c system are inherently rather fair at best, that plus the close proximity to the turbo and down pipe, I Wrapped the evap box in a ~3/8 thick foam insulation with a radiant foil. In addition, I spent a lot of time sealing every pipe and duct inside the car with foam so there are no leaks.
The result is quite impressive, vent temps in the high 30s while driving in 91 degree sunny florida today. The air velocity was great to, kids said they could easily feel the air in the back seat.
I have seen quite a few posts here of people asking about a/c, a few post of members installing an aftermarket kits...I may have missed it, but i never saw a factory civi a/c installed on a m1009.
Anyway, it was actually quite a bit more work then I imagined, seemed like every step it was fitting back at me lol, I dont know how good the aftermarket kits are, but as long as they are adequate, I'd suggest using one of them lol.
I acquired the plastics from craigslist, bought all the parts that touch Freon new. I originally was going to convert to a serpentine belt from a 6.5, but simply had a hell of a time finding any parts. After talking to a local friend who just converted his 6.2 to a serp setup, I opted to stay V-belt. Plus he gave me a great deal on the brackets for the pass alt and drivers compressor.
First off my m1009 was already converted to 12v, but for some reason the PO removed the pass alt and bracket, and left only the drivers.
First step was to remove the alt brackets and install the civi alt bracket on the pass side. My m1009 alt was to big, so i just used the civi one. I then installed the compressor on the drivers side.
Had to back out the original pass alt bolt that had been sheard off in the head. got lucky!
![](https://i.imgur.com/QBboWcg.jpg)
Next I took apart the dash, removed all the stock heater box parts. Over simplified, I made a template, cut the firewall hole, patched the old heater hole. Cut a hole for the center vent. in the dash frame
![](https://i.imgur.com/ZUnic9v.jpg)
Next condenser goes in
![](https://i.imgur.com/1eGPBpq.jpg)
One of the harder parts was dealing with the m1009 specific parts that interfere with a/c. I obviously knew about the blackout switches, I debated making a custom vent, but ultimately just moved the switches and stickers below the vent.
![](https://i.imgur.com/Q4bI7z4.jpg)
The surprise was the Evap box pretty much was in the way of everything. not to mention, the bottom bolts alone took several hours grrrr
![](https://i.imgur.com/tlZBSUU.jpg)
My spin on fuel filter had to be moved over ~1.5". its new place it was way to close to the valve cover, so i had to ditch the huge 9" long volvo filter i had for a shorter 5" wix.
Next I had to move the main power bus closer to the fender. Now most of the cables didnt reach, so amazon to the rescue for a bunch of 0/1 gauge cables.
The evap box also is in conflict with the battery, which has to be moved more forward. With my turbo, I had to get quite creative with routing my a/c lines and bends.
My side project was to figure out the wiring. I took this as the opportunity to open up all the loops and clean everything up. I feel like I actually understand the changes made. Im a lot happier now that ive solder the connections and removed the unneeded wires
Having had a few square bodies before, I knew the A/c system are inherently rather fair at best, that plus the close proximity to the turbo and down pipe, I Wrapped the evap box in a ~3/8 thick foam insulation with a radiant foil. In addition, I spent a lot of time sealing every pipe and duct inside the car with foam so there are no leaks.
The result is quite impressive, vent temps in the high 30s while driving in 91 degree sunny florida today. The air velocity was great to, kids said they could easily feel the air in the back seat.
![](https://i.imgur.com/bpX4ldV.jpg)
![](https://i.imgur.com/zFHkuDH.jpg)
![](https://i.imgur.com/4TCUlrQ.jpg)