84 m1009 cucv chevy blazer build-up

[2INSANE]

I had found this years ago and kept it in my records. Hope this helps.

6.2 torque specs

ALL in ft lbs unless otherwise mentioned.

Bellhousing - 30
Cam Gear - 75
Cam Thrush Plate - 17
Connecting Rod nuts - 48
Crankshaft Pulley - 30
Cylinder Head (3 steps) 20 / 50 / +90 degrees
Engine Mount to Block - 75
Engine Mount to Frame - 50
Exhaust Manifold - 26
Flywheel bolts - 65
Front cover bolts - 33
Glow Plugs - 156 in/pd use anti-seize
Harmonic Balancer - 200
Injector Lines - 19
Injector Nozzle - 50
Injector pump Retaining nut - 30
Injector Pump Gear bolt - 20
Injector Pump Baffle bolt - 33
Intake Manifold - 31
Lifter Guideplate - 18
Main Bearing caps inner 110 / outer 100
Oil Cooler Line to Filter - 12
Oil Cooler to Rad -25
Oil Pump Drive bolt - 31
Oil Pump Retaining bolt - 65
Oil Pan Plug - 20
Pressure plate to flywheel bolts 38-40 ft-lbs (use loc-tite)
Pulley to Damper - 20
Rocker Arm Cover - 16
Rocker Arm Shaft - 40
Starter Bolts - 35
Thermostat Housing - 35
Turbocharger to Manifold - 37
Vibration Damper - 200
Water Crossover to Head - 31
Water Pump to Cover - 31
Water Pump Plate to Pump - 16
Vacuum Pump Retaining nut - 31
Valve Covers - 16

Oil Pan bolts - inch lbs
rear 2, 84
others 204

Body Mounts - Bolts - 55, Nuts 35

 

[Rutjes]

I really want the dual thermostat coolant cross over. I did a mock up and it’s hitting the the throttle cable plate. I am going to tackle this problem and will post lots of pictures for you all since it is not a common upgrade for the 6.2.

I've been thinking of ditching the HMMWV crossover I bought and using a dual thermostat crossover instead to go with a high flow water pump. There are some threads on the internet about modifying the throttle cable bracket. Search for "DS4 to DB2" conversion, here's one. You could also try installing the crossover the other way around.

 

[chevymike]

I've been thinking of ditching the HMMWV crossover I bought and using a dual thermostat crossover instead to go with a high flow water pump. There are some threads on the internet about modifying the throttle cable bracket. Search for "DS4 to DB2" conversion, here's one. You could also try installing the crossover the other way around.

My question would be, are you having overheating problems now? I switch over to the HMMWV crossover, not because there was anything wrong with the original one but between running the Paradox by Design cooling kit and needing an extra port for my water temp gauge, it made things easy/cleaner. I had the original radiator re-cored. I run at 170-180* unless I am pulling a long grade with my foot floored. Then it gets up to 200* and comes right back down once I am back on level ground or take my foot out of it.

 

[2INSANE]

Because I have all the parts and thermostats, I will settle this “Which cross over is better” dispute once and for all when I get off of work.

I would like to know myself. I imagine it is as simple as simple math. Stay tuned!

 

[2INSANE]

The restrictive limitations on any crossover is the thermostat. No matter how small or big your pipe is, the point of restriction is the thermostats opening size.

1996 Dual crossover thermostat is about 1 2/32” wide x2 thermostats= 2 4/32”

1995 Single crossover thermostat opening is =1 1/2”wide

So which one flows more GPM? The dual thermostat crossover of course!

Which one will cool your motor better? The dual thermostat crossover of course!

I gave Leroy a call and asked him what he used. He said he currently has the dual thermostat crossover because he converted to a mechanical DB2 pump.

However he also told me that he plans on going to a single thermostat crossover because he wants to have more access to work on his motor and it would make it easier for him to do his timing. He also wants to go back to the electrical DB4 because he wants to add a tuner on his truck and he can do all his adjustments from that tuner.

Asking him which one he thought cools better?

He said he could not tell the difference.

So in a nutshell, I would say it depends on your needs.

My needs are simple! I have a 36 year old 6.2 diesel that is known to crack heads because of excessive heat. I need as much flow as possible! The faster the flow=More revolutions of the coolant threw the radiator

So I ask myself, if this dual thermostat cross over is a tad bit better for the flow, why aren’t others doing it more?

My answer to myself... Fabrication is required! Most guys don’t want to deal with that! Also accessibility to that area of the motor is decreased. Another huge factor is cost!

Because of these factors, there now creates myths. To some it’s better to have the single because of the factors. So in their mind the single is better. Which makes sense if you compare Factors vs Heat reduction.

Another interesting factor you must think about is Coolant Pressure! Too much pressure can cause a lot of premature failure on gaskets and other parts. Not enough pressure will cause overheating.

For me, there is nothing to consider, the math has proven correct! I’ll run the Dual Thermostats! In my dumb mind, 2 smaller holes is better then one bigger hole because of the 2 circular diameters measuring bigger then the single circular diameter.


Hope this helps!

 

[2INSANE]

So, today I am taking a few steps back. I decided to remove the injection pump and timing plate because when I removed the water pump plate, there is a chance that I disturbed the timing plate gasket which would cause a coolant leak.

I am glad I removed the timing plate because I can see that an oil leak started from the lower part of the pan and timing cover. Also the crank shaft timing plate seal was leaking as well.

I will refurbish the nuts and bolts this weekend and clean off all the gaskets. My goal is reinstall everything in the same day before the RTV cure time expires. Plus I am waiting on the water pump to arrive which gives me time to go threw all the little things. I will tap and clean all the bolt holes as well.

 

[chevymike]

Just curious, since you mentioned cracked head because of overheating, from things I have read, it seems the rear part of the block runs hot because of lack of coolant flow, due to the design of the block. I think I read GM fixed this in later 6.5L blocks. Because I wanted to try to eliminate this issue, I installed the Paradox by Design cooling kit which is designed to get coolant flow (at a correct flow level) at the rear of the block. More flow from a high flow pump and t-stat housing doesn't seem to fix the actual issue as it is a block design problem.

Any reason you haven't looked at the Paradox by Design kit? It is likely a better solution and requires much less work. Just throwing my .02 out there.

 

[2INSANE]

Just curious, since you mentioned cracked head because of overheating, from things I have read, it seems the rear part of the block runs hot because of lack of coolant flow, due to the design of the block. I think I read GM fixed this in later 6.5L blocks. Because I wanted to try to eliminate this issue, I installed the Paradox by Design cooling kit which is designed to get coolant flow (at a correct flow level) at the rear of the block. More flow from a high flow pump and t-stat housing doesn't seem to fix the actual issue as it is a block design problem.

Any reason you haven't looked at the Paradox by Design kit? It is likely a better solution and requires much less work. Just throwing my .02 out there.

According to the diesel page books, it is a myth. However in the book it is talking about a 6.5L.

We are talking about an early 6.2L diesel that was not designed for a turbo.

I have considered all options in upgrades with no concern of expense. Granted it’s taken many years to be able to afford these upgrades.

The Paradox by design upgrade has come to mind a few times. It is a newer upgrade? I would consider buying it or fabricating one like it if I can see proven results.

I would like a to see a test ran with a laser thermometer of a 6.2 with out the kit that ran idle for 20 mins and check the rear and front temperatures on the block.

Then another test with the kit installed, 6.2 running idle for 20 mins and then checking the temperatures front and rear.

In theory I would say it makes sense. Perhaps Paradox by design could humor me and show these tests via YouTube unless they already have one?

However the odd things I notice...

The last time I opened up this motor, there was no sign of overheating on the heads or cylinders. But this time there was signs of over heating. What did I do wrong? The leaking Arp studs caused overheating and the increased fuel timing increased overheating.

The strange thing is the only sign of overheating was on the driver side of the block. All of the precups were cracked on the driver side only! With the driver side opened up you can see areas that do not have as much carbon build up near the precups entryway. Failing injectors? Or too much timing?

I would think a good working N/A 6.2 that has not been messed with would not need the Paradox by design kit. A 6.2 turboed motor could probably benefit from it.

Then we have to factor in coolant pressure. By having all these coolant upgrades and opening it all up like Niagara Falls, we risk the chance of not enough pressure which could cause overheating anyhow.

After it is all done and running, I will have to check the coolant pressures for sure to see if I need more upgrades or need to downsize on the upgrades.

 

[2INSANE]

In an earlier post I had mentioned that I would show you all the gaskets that had the Permatex Copper Spray-A-Gasket on them.

I had also mentioned that I assumed it would clog all the holes on the gaskets before I inspected them.

I was wrong! The copper spray worked like a charm! No holes on the gaskets got closed like they would if I ran stop leak, which has happened before...

My official review on this product is 5 stars out of 5!

Because of my increased fuel timing and failing Arp studs I overheated at 90 degrees ambient outside air temperature. My coolant temperature got to 220 degrees.

The heads and block had no cracks after that excessive short period of overheating.

And that is what this product is meant for! It seals and improves heat transfer.

I recommend this product on all head gaskets! Especially when using the TTY head bolts because I had head gasket fitment issues both times I used the Arp studs making it almost impossible to not mess up the head gaskets fresh coat of copper spray.

The simple FACT that I had to use a chisel to pry off the heads is proof that this product seals like superglue reducing chances of head gasket failure.

Just be careful when you use it! This product is toxic!

 

[2INSANE]

Omg! When I read back to myself what I wrote, it sounds like I’m doing a commercial! Lol!

 

[2INSANE]

I love it when I call up all these different venders and they all talk crap about each other and their products.

I personally have no preference whom I deal with. I only care about cost and performance and if the product will suit my needs.

I am just sayin...

I don’t mind blowing a little cash to try a product out but if it fails, I am not afraid to complain a lot!

 

[2INSANE]

Now I would like to talk about Beer! My personal preference is a nicely fresh brewed Scottish Ale from the Bar 3 Brewery here in good old Belgrade Montana!

What do you like to drink?

But since I bought this cheap stuff for a family bbq months ago, I guess I better drink it! LOL! It will save you money!


How about the stock 6.2 crank pulley? Wtf was gm thinking when they designed it! Years of corrosion will soften its metal and make it bend and it will wobble causing the harmonics to go out of wack! Fluidamper or not! It’s a broken crank I see in the future! This inside valley on the crank pulley collects soooooo much dirt, mud, rocks and oil that is not good!

I hopefully see an aluminum crank pulley in the near future. It makes sense!

Not even gonna comment on the OEM 6.5 crank pulley.

IMO some guys insist that OEM is better! I have to disagree in some instances. Technology is constantly getting better to improve our lives! Why fear it? I say utilize it and live better!

 

[911joeblow]

GM and later GEP added bandaid over bandaid to fix the uneven coolant temps in these engines. The different pumps, dual thermostats, military geared fans vs hydraulic fans all were tried. My favorite is when they finally gave up and over bored only the rear #7 and #8 cylinders so the overheating would not lockup the pistons and rings there! If you really want to know more read our blog that goes over all of this and more... https://paradoxbydesign.com/blogs/news/the-humvee-diesel-engine-cooling-paradox

 

[2INSANE]

GM and later GEP added bandaid over bandaid to fix the uneven coolant temps in these engines. The different pumps, dual thermostats, military geared fans vs hydraulic fans all were tried. My favorite is when they finally gave up and over bored only the rear #7 and #8 cylinders so the overheating would not lockup the pistons and rings there! If you really want to know more read our blog that goes over all of this and more... https://paradoxbydesign.com/blogs/news/the-humvee-diesel-engine-cooling-paradox

Thank you for chiming in! Interesting read! Personally I have never seen overheating in #7 and #8 cylinders on a properly working 6.2 early model after opening them up.

The only time I see overheating on a 6.2 early model is from failed components, such as injectors, lifters, too much timing, failing thermostat, coolant leaks, etc.

I will conduct some temperature tests on my modified motor before installing it. It will be an 18 point test with a laser thermometer and I will post the results here on my build thread. I will also conduct coolant pressure tests with all the coolant upgrades installed. If I see the rear of the blocks temps higher then the front, please be expecting my order

 

[2INSANE]

It’s getting cold out and I am too lazy to clean the wood stove chimney in the shop so I fired up the old kerosine heater.


To clean up the old gasket material from the timing plate block side, I used my razor blade and scraped all big pieces of the old gasket off without scratching the surface. Next I used a 120 grit Roloc disk. It felt more like 200 grit. Before doing any work on it, I put a paper towel down and shaped it like a bowl so it would collect any debris preventing chunks falling into the oil pan.

I used the scotch pad to clean areas that the roloc disk was not able to get to.

With the small wire wheel I cleaned every hole until all material was out of the threads. Taking note of which holes went all the way threw to the coolant ports.

Using the shop vac and bigger wire brush, I then cleaned the excessive gasket material from the coolant holes.

Then wiped away all oils, dirt and material with a paper towel soaked in brake cleaner.

 

[2INSANE]

Taking note of the bent oil pan so I will use extra rtv in that area. I could bend it back but the vibrations might unseat some areas of oil pan and cause more leaks.

Making sure the crank key is not damaged.

Checking the fluidamper adapter.


Checking the gear drive to make sure the gears are still aligned.

Checked the front main seal. Looking great as it should with only 30,000 original miles.


After posting this, I will spend more time cleaning the loose material off and any that fell into the oil pan. But here is a current picture of the cleaning job.

Last summer when I had the timing cover off, there was pitting on the block side. The intent of the roloc disk is to smooth out some of that pitting without sacrificing too much material. And that is what it did! The rtv will fill in the rest. Originally, GM never put a gasket between the timing cover and the block. Let’s keep it that way!

 

[2INSANE]

Today being my Sunday, I went to work. Lol! But for good reason! The timing plate cover needed to be cleaned and the timing plate bolts needed refurbished! They were bad!

So for the timing plate, I did the usual clean. Scraped the gasket off with the razor blade, used the roloc disk and then dunked it in the tank.

Still some material in the bolt holes, ports and valley.

Then I dunked all the bolts in the tank to soften up the thread sealant and then wire wheeled each one. Afterward I dunked them back in the tank.

Went back to the garage and wire wheeled the rest of the gunk from the timing plate. There were no small ones at the shop but at home I have a lot of wheels of many sizes.

 

[2INSANE]

Next I wanted to tackle that dreadful oil plug above where the oil cooler lines go.

I tried everything! I torched it, PB blasted it, WD-40ed it, tapped it with the hammer, broke a few 1/4 adapters, let it soak with Wd and pb over a week... Still could not get it off...

So I said screw it! I drilled a hole all the way threw and hammered in my #5 bolt extractor. It worked!

With my smaller magnet, I probed the oil port and got all the shaving out. I also cleaned up all shavings from the block and oil cooler line nipples.

 

[2INSANE]

Looking at the instructions, I then cleaned the old flanges up with the wire wheel and brake cleaner. Then added some Optimum Black on the threads. I installed the flanges and the steel braided oil line.

Going back to the timing cover, I removed the timing cover crank seal. There was a small chunk of the rubber seal cut. The parts store had zero in stock. Poop!


Remembering what More Power said on the diesel page, I did a mock up of the exhaust cross over pipe to see how close the mechanical pump is.

It is pretty darn close! Imagining that area getting to 1000 degrees... Hmmm... Have not made up my mind about that yet. I really like the mechanical pump.

 

[2INSANE]

Waiting on parts... I have the water pump, aluminum crank pulley and now the timing plate crank seal on its way.

It is getting very cold up here in Montana. Over the next couple of days it will be dropping down to -11 degrees at least. Not really excited about that!

The rest of the day I am going to put the hood back on the blazer and the tires. Clean up the garage too.

I found a rebuild kit for the Sidewinder turbo. I am debating if I should or not.