Ilikemtb999
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I was going to attempt the nv bellhousing. The guy I bought my pedals from had one swapped in a square and it seemed to fit fine. Figured it was worth a shot first.
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NV4500 swap clutch fun!
- Thread starter shotty
- Start date
erasedhammer
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They work fine, it's just personal preference. I wanted an external slave (for ease of servicing) on drivers side (no need to worry about front driveshaft).
Ilikemtb999
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I read some people claim they hit, the one I saw looked like decent clearance. Seems worth potentially saving $500 on the AA one if possible.
erasedhammer
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True, I also could not find any anywhere. My local junkyards just don't have manual chevy trucks.
shotty
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I still have the stock bellhousing for my 93 trans if needed
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I have the same dragon to slay on my 4500 install. I already have a working truck with the SM465 but need a larger ID pilot bearing for the NV4500. I also escaped the hydraulic clutch blues, used a linkage design. Since I never twist it up off road, It should be just fine. What kind of pilot bearing puller didn't work. I have a nice Snap-On, hoping it gets the job done. Its not failed me yet.
shotty
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This one couldn't reach behind the bearing, it would hit the raised portion of the crankshaft and not get deep enough:
This one broke, bending the horizontal arm, and I had to grind the teeth on the legs down to get them small enough to fit in:
Truth be told, I think I just had some corosion buildup or something on the pilot hole, and that's why it was such a bear to get out. I cleaned it up a bit when I reinstalled the new bearing and it went in a bit easier.
SuperAwesomeDOOD
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I just went through the clutch bracket fiasco from AA today. I’m doing an nv4500 swap with their bell housing and bracket. The clutch was fully depressed with the rod bottomed out in my LUK slave cyl. Like you, I cut 9/16” off and rounded the tip up again, but the two jamb nuts and house looking wedge block still bottomed out on the boot. So I had to invert the boot on itself so the part that fits the rod was still there to create a seal, but nothing really went as expected.
here are the before pics, forgot to snap some after pics, but what a pita.
here are the before pics, forgot to snap some after pics, but what a pita.
shotty
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Yeah it's been fun dealing with that. I actually ditched one of the nuts to get things to line up better. Granted, I can't adjust the position of the wedge right now but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.
I might just tap the wedge for a larger diameter all thread rod so I can just run one nut and still be able to adjust it's position.
What clutch and flywheel did you use?
I might just tap the wedge for a larger diameter all thread rod so I can just run one nut and still be able to adjust it's position.
What clutch and flywheel did you use?
SuperAwesomeDOOD
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I have an SBC now, but I used a McLeod clutch kit and a center force billet flywheel. I can get p/n next time I go out to the shop. Hopefully everything else fits as expected.
erasedhammer
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I just noticed that I never recieved that wedge. I just have the fork backed all the way against the small nut.
shotty
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That sucks. I'm not sure how great the wedge is to be honest, you might be just as successful with the nuts. If you really want it though you can snag it separately https://www.advanceadapters.com/products/716139--gm-release-arm-wedge/
erasedhammer
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So far its pretty solid, no slop. The nut is against the fork pretty good, I don't think its going anywhere.
Plus I think its allowing me to back the fork further up the half threaded rod AA provided.
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I noticed that it wasn't in your pictures. I figured that was why you had the extra adjustment space...
shotty
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Yeah that wedge is pretty thick, probably equal to the amount I had to chop off the rod to get everything to fit..
erasedhammer
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Looks like AA shot themselves in the foot with this one.
chevymike
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You actually want something there to allow the fork to pivot as the rod moves in and out. Without the wedge or something, that nut will eventually wear into the arm and possibly bind.
What I did on another project trans swap was to take a piece of solid round rod (big enough to allow the rod through) and drilled a hole for the push rod. Then I cut the round rod in half, basically making a U shaped pivot. Put the curved part against the fork and the flat against the adjusting nut. Worked good and didn't take as much room as that wedge block would.
SuperAwesomeDOOD
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Mine came with the wedge and a pass through acorn nut. The acorn nut would work in place of the wedge if need be. Someone I’m doing this swap at the same time as on GMSB has a totally different looking bracket from AA. That’s the third different design I’ve seen under the same part number...
shotty
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I like that idea. I think the wedge is less than ideal as it seems to bind a bit on the pointed edge. A half round shape, maybe with a nut welded inside it so you can still use a jam nut setup would be great.
erasedhammer
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I would assume the nut would be come rounded to the point where the fork can move without the nut turning. I just wouldn't be able to take the nut off lol.