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240V 3ph on MEP-806B. Is it safe?

Guyfang

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Has anyone here considered that there may be a step down transformer for the computer? I would hook it up and run it. The company told you you can, so go for it. Yes, you can change the startup voltage. BUT, no one can tell you how. Its not something anyone would have to do in the Army, so there was no reason to put it in the TM's. The gen set is a worker, you will get good service from it. BUT, if the components in the control cube go tits up, that can be a problem. The only thing I would warn you about is phasing. Make sure your set is putting out the same as your equipment needs. easy to change, but better to test first. Most things have a phase protection circuit to prevent machines from running backwards, but not all. I have seen many very large messes when equipment ran backwards. The reason I say test, is that someone along the way may have mixed up two phase wires. Voltage reads normal. But phase is out. the place this normally happens is on the K1. the input wire get mixed up on the input side, the out put side and at the load terminals. This happens very often.
 

Scoobyshep

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Has anyone here considered that there may be a step down transformer for the computer? I would hook it up and run it. The company told you you can, so go for it. Yes, you can change the startup voltage. BUT, no one can tell you how. Its not something anyone would have to do in the Army, so there was no reason to put it in the TM's. The gen set is a worker, you will get good service from it. BUT, if the components in the control cube go tits up, that can be a problem. The only thing I would warn you about is phasing. Make sure your set is putting out the same as your equipment needs. easy to change, but better to test first. Most things have a phase protection circuit to prevent machines from running backwards, but not all. I have seen many very large messes when equipment ran backwards. The reason I say test, is that someone along the way may have mixed up two phase wires. Voltage reads normal. But phase is out. the place this normally happens is on the K1. the input wire get mixed up on the input side, the out put side and at the load terminals. This happens very often.
I had an apprentice reverse phasing on a conveyor accidently one night, he ended up teepeeing 2 boats.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 

Ray70

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A quick note about the computers.... almost every single computer, laptop, desktop etc. made these days uses an auto switching power supply that will accept anything from 90 to 265VAC 50 or 60 Hz.
The reason for this is: 1) so they can tolerate mild brown out and surge voltages and 2) so the same power supply can be used in almost all countries simply by changing the detachable input cord.
Take a look at the label on your power supply, it will most likely have the input power rating listed on it.
 

Guyfang

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Exactly! I have lived and worked in a three phase inviroment for almost the last 50 years. In the Army, using these same gen sets, we set up power grids for our unit, in the field, and ONLY used three phase. All the computers, faxes, scanners, printers and every other electrical devise you can think of, and a million more you would not think of, worked. And I have been retired almost 30 years. It always worked.
 

mlhorton1

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The generator will be mounted on a pickup. I had planned on bonding to the frame will that be enough? Also someone mentioned that I should check and make sure the phase is in the proper direction. I have read that the simplest way is using a 3 phase motor. Does the computer read that or do I need to test it myself?
 

Scoobyshep

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The generator will be mounted on a pickup. I had planned on bonding to the frame will that be enough? Also someone mentioned that I should check and make sure the phase is in the proper direction. I have read that the simplest way is using a 3 phase motor. Does the computer read that or do I need to test it myself?
Bonding: Make sure the neutral (L0) is electrically tied to the chassis, The machine needs to be grounded back to the generator frame as well. It is also a good idea to have a ground rod (this way the ground reference is the same as the ground). If it is impractical to have a ground rod (it needs to be moving for example) the really important part is having the machine grounded to the generator.

Rotation alot of equipment (but not all) have a phase monitor that prevents startup if the rotation is incorrect. if not find a motor that wont cause damage to bump backwards (compressor conveyor etc) bump said motor and observe direction. if it goes the wrong way flip 2 phases (any 2 work, but common practice is A and C (L1 and L3)
 

mlhorton1

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Bonding: Make sure the neutral (L0) is electrically tied to the chassis, The machine needs to be grounded back to the generator frame as well. It is also a good idea to have a ground rod (this way the ground reference is the same as the ground). If it is impractical to have a ground rod (it needs to be moving for example) the really important part is having the machine grounded to the generator.

Rotation alot of equipment (but not all) have a phase monitor that prevents startup if the rotation is incorrect. if not find a motor that wont cause damage to bump backwards (compressor conveyor etc) bump said motor and observe direction. if it goes the wrong way flip 2 phases (any 2 work, but common practice is A and C (L1 and L3)
Ok will make sure it is well grounded to the frame and having a ground rod is not practical because I will be moving several times per day. What do you mean by grounding the machine to the generator frame? I assume that means you think I need to bring a separate wire from the frame of the treater to the frame of the generator.

I have attached some picture of the project. I will be placing the generator on the pickup right behind the cab. I am using 4c 4awg soow cable to run from the generator to the panel on the treater.

The computer has a reverse power fault that is not being tripped so I will assume that the generator is functioning properly.

Thank you for all the help and keep checking to make sure I am not messing something up.
 

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Scoobyshep

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Ok will make sure it is well grounded to the frame and having a ground rod is not practical because I will be moving several times per day. What do you mean by grounding the machine to the generator frame? I assume that means you think I need to bring a separate wire from the frame of the treater to the frame of the generator.

I have attached some picture of the project. I will be placing the generator on the pickup right behind the cab. I am using 4c 4awg soow cable to run from the generator to the panel on the treater.

The computer has a reverse power fault that is not being tripped so I will assume that the generator is functioning properly.

Thank you for all the help and keep checking to make sure I am not messing something up.
100% yes you need to ground the frame of the treater to the generator frame. Technically you really should have a breaker between the generator and treater, mainly because the generator breaker is made to protect the generator, it can put out more current than desired for the treater and wire.
 

Guyfang

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Bonding: Make sure the neutral (L0) is electrically tied to the chassis, The machine needs to be grounded back to the generator frame as well. It is also a good idea to have a ground rod (this way the ground reference is the same as the ground). If it is impractical to have a ground rod (it needs to be moving for example) the really important part is having the machine grounded to the generator.

Rotation alot of equipment (but not all) have a phase monitor that prevents startup if the rotation is incorrect. if not find a motor that wont cause damage to bump backwards (compressor conveyor etc) bump said motor and observe direction. if it goes the wrong way flip 2 phases (any 2 work, but common practice is A and C (L1 and L3)
Just want to add this to Scooby's post.

Do not chose a motor that is supposed to move things in both directions. Use one that ONLY runs in one direction. You can buy a cheapo tester, if you will be hooking and unhooking it alot. Or, use GOOD connectors, get the phasing right and never have to worry again. Most motors that run in only one direction, turn to the right. Next question is, which way is right. Normally, when you look directly at the fan end of a motor, it will turn to the right, when the set is correctly hooked up.
 

MrShawn305

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Ok will make sure it is well grounded to the frame and having a ground rod is not practical because I will be moving several times per day. What do you mean by grounding the machine to the generator frame? I assume that means you think I need to bring a separate wire from the frame of the treater to the frame of the generator.

I have attached some picture of the project. I will be placing the generator on the pickup right behind the cab. I am using 4c 4awg soow cable to run from the generator to the panel on the treater.

The computer has a reverse power fault that is not being tripped so I will assume that the generator is functioning properly.

Thank you for all the help and keep checking to make sure I am not messing something up.
That's cool, I'm curious to see the control panel with the treater running. I wanna see how much it loads it down and how it likes it. Some really good advice in this thread, I'm learning alot that I'll use with my 805B if I ever get it running right.
 

mciikurzroot

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Hi,

I recently purchased a Mep-806B. I have been reading all of the TMs and according to those it safe that for 120v/208v 3ph the voltage range is 197v-240v. I am trying to figure out if turning the voltage of to 240v is safe and if it can sustain that and run for extended periods of time?

Thank you in advance.

Matt
I have tried to follow your sketchy initial question to where you get into the real specifics. One of your original questions ask do you or will you have to always reset the voltage to your desired 240 range, YES you will, the CIM has an embeddd default starting voltage the is derived from your link board setting of 120/208 or 240/416 position/setting. It has been proffered to raise your voltage to or as much as 240 , yes sure this can be done with no harm to the gen set, but REMEMBER please your LOW side normal 120 volts will follow the square root of 3 and increase by that factor beginning at the 208 phase to phase point. At that offering you said "the company" assured you the Air Compressor was protected, I seriously doubt that, while you have not shared the compressor HP rating even a so called small one will my guess be a 1hp or larger, that means a fair ass size auto transformer is set up i dont think thats going to be the case, but i also suspect the compressor can be wired for 208-240 single phase voltage and then all your issues are settled. Now the bomb in the punch bowl, me myself until i was 100% sure my 120 volt items individual any or all items had the lattitude to exceed 125 vac 130vac in my experience is the high limit would allow. But one more place and several have expressed safety that your 240 motors will absolutly run well at 208-220 and thus lower your low voltage to 127 or abouts, then you have prett well reached the best of all you can expect and experience no harm to any of your equipment.

If the constant issue of raising the initial voltage setting is that much of a PIA then loop out the regular voltage regulator and add in a small single purpose indpendant stand alone VR analog style where the voltage pot setting is fixed as you desire or has an adjustable but fixed always set voltage output. you would then have to move the field winding away from the unit included on the set to this new regulator yet still feed the voltage bback to the big mother board to trick the CIM settings into compliance, this is a ugly way but i have had several instances where i have done this to solve immediate needs, but as i caution its a bit ugly , just depends on your tolerance.
Hi,

I recently purchased a Mep-806B. I have been reading all of the TMs and according to those it safe that for 120v/208v 3ph the voltage range is 197v-240v. I am trying to figure out if turning the voltage of to 240v is safe and if it can sustain that and run for extended periods of time?

Thank you in advance.

Matt
 

rickf

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I have been following this but since I am not an electrician I have not commented on it but I did notice one thing that caught my eye on the seeders spec sheet, voltage MAX 240. That means it is set up for a MAXIMUM of 240 volts, not set up specifically for only 240 volts. Any electrical equipment has to be able to handle a range both above and below an average value and if 240 is the max then going down from there should be perfectly safe. I think you need to talk to someone else in that company.
 

mlhorton1

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Finally got everything hooked up and everything powered up perfectly. The only question I have is that even when I have a 10hp motor running I never get any current or power information on the generator. Is there a fuse or something that I would need to check?
 

mlhorton1

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Take a picture of the screen and post it. The control panel also. While running, power the load.
I will get those pictures tomorrow.

For any who are still curious about the 120V outlet for the compressor. I did some reading on GFCI outlets and they accept any voltage under 150V and everything powered up and worked great. My line to neutral voltage is around 137V and my line to line is around 237V when the generator is showing 240. Granted this is all according to my multimeter.
 

MrShawn305

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I will get those pictures tomorrow.

For any who are still curious about the 120V outlet for the compressor. I did some reading on GFCI outlets and they accept any voltage under 150V and everything powered up and worked great. My line to neutral voltage is around 137V and my line to line is around 237V when the generator is showing 240. Granted this is all according to my multimeter.
137v makes me uneasy to be honest. It's so non-standard. 120/208 is MUCH more standard than anything on 137v
 

mlhorton1

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Okay I have attached everything. I took a picture of my treater screen to show that I have 2 motors running. I also took a picture of both the full and main screen on the generator to show no amps are showing on the generator.

Thank you for the help!
 

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Don+23805

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A lot of electronics stuff these days have switching power supplies and the nameplate input will indicate some range like 100-240 volts (or anywhere in between). If hat's the case then the 138 would be OK.
We left ours at 208 and the biggest loads are trailer A/C units. The compressors are fine with that.
 
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