M1009 How To Roll Down the Rear Window??

[jplace1011]

The crank handle on the tailgate of my CUCV M1009 broke off. Now I can’t roll down the window. I need to roll the window down about an inch so I can lower the tailgate to take things apart to replace the crank handle.

Is there any way to lower the window by hand, etc.?

I appreciate any help, thank you in advance!!


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[glcaines]

If the shaft is still sticking out put some vise-grips on it and turn it that way. If the shaft is broken off I don't know what you could do.

 

[Jeepadict]

If the shaft is broken, a guy could try drilling a recess in the remaining shaft and then an extractor (ez-out)

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[D6T]

Did the handle actually break, or pop off the little “ears” that should be held in place by screws? Mine jumps out of the screws often. A photo would help.

 

[cucvrus]

In this case I would crawl into the rear cargo area with the tools and remove the access panel. From that point you can get in there and remove the 4 - 1/4" bolts that hold the bottom sash to the roller guides. Tight area to work in but it can be done. Also if the window is up you have full access to the 4 - 1/4" bolts holding the window regulator up. Either way you have a way to get in and get that window down. Be Careful. That window is heavy when you are inside and the window is vertical. If it is stock you will need a Phillip's screw driver for the access panel and a 7/16" socket and wrench for the regulator and roller guides. Good Luck. Report back. Enjoy the Holiday.

 

[jplace1011]

In this case I would crawl into the rear cargo area with the tools and remove the access panel. From that point you can get in there and remove the 4 - 1/4" bolts that hold the bottom sash to the roller guides. Tight area to work in but it can be done. Also if the window is up you have full access to the 4 - 1/4" bolts holding the window regulator up. Either way you have a way to get in and get that window down. Be Careful. That window is heavy when you are inside and the window is vertical. If it is stock you will need a Phillip's screw driver for the access panel and a 7/16" socket and wrench for the regulator and roller guides. Good Luck. Report back. Enjoy the Holiday.

This all sounds like a fantastic starting point. Thank you for the advice. All of the replacement parts should be here tomorrow so I’m hoping to start soon.

I just don’t want to break the glass, so thanks CUCVRUS.

I’ll report back!
Here are pics of the broken part (since someone asked)

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[cucvrus]

Common break. I would take the new crank or driver apart and put real grease in the hole. I would use oil and grease on all the sash guide wells and the gears of the regulator. The side track runs need replaced if they are bunched up, wadded, or missing. Lots of times the lower sash guides are very rusty and the wheels on the regulator are worn down and not spinning freely. Also the sides of the lower sash need to be polished and lubed so they side freely up and down the side channels. I use rubber 1/4" trim lok in the side sash and it lasts a long time and is resistant to the same wear that the stock setup succumbs to. Good Luck. Remember oil and grease. MOST Spray lubes are useless over time they just evaporate.

 

[Sharecropper]

I second what Rick said above, and to add: I have found the best grease to use is any brand which contains Molybdenum. It seems the Moly will stay there longer and is less susceptible to getting washed off by water. I personally use John Deere Moly grease. I use it everywhere. On my tractor and on my vehicles. I keep a big tube in my Milwaukee battery powered grease gun. Whenever I need a finger of grease I just pull the trigger for a half second and there it is. What the hail did we do before battery powered tools and cell phones?

 

[cucvrus]

Quick thought. Try and find the pawl and save the clutch if at all possible. Them OEM clutch parts are hard to come by. Most reproductions are thin uncentered and really don't last vey long. Good Luck.

 

[Indyharleyguy]

Same thing happened to me. I got a small pair of vise grip needle noes pliers and opened mine. Now the trick is to replace it. Hoping to next week.

 

[Mainsail]

I need to roll the window down about an inch so I can lower the tailgate to take things apart to replace the crank handle.

Just wanted to point out that the tailgate won't open with the glass only down an inch. It needs to be almost all the way down to allow the tailgate to release, then once down you roll the glass back out.

That was the first repair I did on my M1009 when I got it.

 

[jplace1011]

Just wanted to point out that the tailgate won't open with the glass only down an inch. It needs to be almost all the way down to allow the tailgate to release, then once down you roll the glass back out.

That was the first repair I did on my M1009 when I got it.

Awesome tips! Thank you for the info, I’ll remember that when I work on it. You guys are very helpful indeed!


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[Boat Guy]

Great thread for an all too common problem with some great tips I hadn't seen before. Moly grease it is!
My vehicle is in "layup" on our other property; I only get to it a couple-three times a year. Looking forward to some quality time later this summer

 

[jplace1011]

The crank handle on the tailgate of my CUCV M1009 broke off. Now I can’t roll down the window. I need to roll the window down about an inch so I can lower the tailgate to take things apart to replace the crank handle.

Is there any way to lower the window by hand, etc.?

I appreciate any help, thank you in advance!!


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Update: I finally got to the tailgate today. I believe I figured out why the window was sagging on the passengers side. The Window Sash is bent downwards on that side. See pic below. Should I purchase a new one via LMC? I’ve read that’s it’s difficult to attach a new sash to the Glass Setting Rubber.

Or should I try to bend it back? I don’t know if that’s even possible, plus I’m concerned about breaking the glass.

Another problem I discovered is that the track (that the glass goes into on the edge of the outer tailgate) on the passengers side was bent very badly.

It’s almost funny because the window used to sag in the passengers side and now sags on the drivers side.

I also noticed when the window is about half way up it’s a bit difficult to roll the window up. Rolling up and after that is quite smooth and easy. Any ideas on what this could be and if it’s fixable?

One other problem is: I don’t know how or where to attach the Insulator Rod on the drivers side. I don’t know where it goes or how exactly to attach it. *Pics below

That’s the end of my novel sized update. Thank you for any input and help. I greatly appreciate it.


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[cucvrus]

First off I would remove the sash from the window and clean it up with a wire wheel, straighten it and paint it. I would polish the ends that travel in the side guides and get it smooth. That sash is in great shape compared to others I have fixed and replaced.

Reattaching the glass in the sash is no problem. You will need to thoroughly clean the channel and get some urethane adhesive caulk. Make sure you have the glass facing the correct way and glue it in place. I use some tape to pull it up in place and open or close the channel in the sash so it fits snug without adhesive in place. The old way of hammering the sash with a rubber wedge in the sash is dangerous and no needed. We have great adhesives today that can replace that method.

The rod will clip into a plastic retainer and should stay in place.

Something similar to these. Use oil and grease on the crank driver and regulator and clean the sash roller guides and grease them. Getting everything shiny clean and greased is key to keeping the rear window happy and operational. Spray lubes are worthless for this application and IMHO most applications. Good old oil and grease work best on the old vehicles that have lots of metal parts moving against each other. Good Luck and report back on your progress. I have a trim Lock material I use in the side guides. You can see my tailgate rebuilding in my Terminus M1009 thread. Take Care.

 

[jplace1011]

First off I would remove the sash from the window and clean it up with a wire wheel, straighten it and paint it. I would polish the ends that travel in the side guides and get it smooth. That sash is in great shape compared to others I have fixed and replaced.

Reattaching the glass in the sash is no problem. You will need to thoroughly clean the channel and get some urethane adhesive caulk. Make sure you have the glass facing the correct way and glue it in place. I use some tape to pull it up in place and open or close the channel in the sash so it fits snug without adhesive in place. The old way of hammering the sash with a rubber wedge in the sash is dangerous and no needed. We have great adhesives today that can replace that method.

The rod will clip into a plastic retainer and should stay in place.

Something similar to these. Use oil and grease on the crank driver and regulator and clean the sash roller guides and grease them. Getting everything shiny clean and greased is key to keeping the rear window happy and operational. Spray lubes are worthless for this application and IMHO most applications. Good old oil and grease work best on the old vehicles that have lots of metal parts moving against each other. Good Luck and report back on your progress. I have a trim Lock material I use in the side guides. You can see my tailgate rebuilding in my Terminus M1009 thread. Take Care.

This is all great information sir! I thank you I thank you! I will give you an update once I have one. By the way, I read your posting on all of the work you did on you M1009. Wow! That’s quite a journey! You certainly are mechanically inclined! I need a neighbor like you!

Take care and thank you again!


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[nyoffroad]

"One other problem is: I don’t know how or where to attach the Insulator Rod on the drivers side. I don’t know where it goes or how exactly to attach it. *Pics below"
That rod is for the latch release and snaps into a retainer like CUCVUS showed on the backside of the inner handle, the clip is probably broken and laying in the bottom of the gate.

 

[cucvrus]

Amazon.com: Dorman 75450 Door Lock Rod Clip Assortment for Select Models: Automotive
This will get you an assortment of clips. I have a window to work on in the next few days. Of course I will post pictures. They will be in my CUCVRUS repair projects thread. Take care. Look in behind the inside release handle there will be an eccentric that pulls inward when you are pulling the inside handle. I will post pictures if you don't find it. Good Luck.

 

[jplace1011]

Amazon.com: Dorman 75450 Door Lock Rod Clip Assortment for Select Models: Automotive
This will get you an assortment of clips. I have a window to work on in the next few days. Of course I will post pictures. They will be in my CUCVRUS repair projects thread. Take care. Look in behind the inside release handle there will be an eccentric that pulls inward when you are pulling the inside handle. I will post pictures if you don't find it. Good Luck.

Hello Again CCCVRUS! Thank you for all of this information and the link. I’m going to order them now. If you are able to please take any photos I would greatly appreciate it. I’m still getting familiar with where everything goes.


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[jplace1011]

Amazon.com: Dorman 75450 Door Lock Rod Clip Assortment for Select Models: Automotive
This will get you an assortment of clips. I have a window to work on in the next few days. Of course I will post pictures. They will be in my CUCVRUS repair projects thread. Take care. Look in behind the inside release handle there will be an eccentric that pulls inward when you are pulling the inside handle. I will post pictures if you don't find it. Good Luck.

I just received the box of assorted clips. I’m going to take a look in the tailgate, hopefully in the morning. I hope I can figure out how to hook the rod into the clip. I’ll send an update soon.


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