Moving my Transmission cooler

[ramdough]

Made some progress.

My truck is extended 38” behind the rear bulkhead where the original pintle used to be and the space left over is just large enough for the cooler.



I reused the angle iron from the original mounts. You can see here the A1R rear clip added on.



I need to go back because I had a brain fart. The 3x3 angle I used (notched for the pintle retainer bolt) obscures access to the bolts to hold the cooler in place.





I plan to cut the lower leg off where the bolts go so I can get a socket in there.



the fan will now blow upwards and just clears the pintle extension arm, so I have minimized my overall height.

I will also put some sort of a rock shield at some point to protect the fan.

 

[ramdough]

One quick question….

my hose connections into the cooler will need to turn a bit to aim more downward. I assume I loosen the jam nut then twist the body to my new angle, then tighten the jam nut again.

any gotchas to worry about?

 

[Mullaney]

Made some progress.

My truck is extended 38” behind the rear bulkhead where the original pintle used to be and the space left over is just large enough for the cooler.

View attachment 839970

I reused the angle iron from the original mounts. You can see here the A1R rear clip added on.

View attachment 839971

I need to go back because I had a brain fart. The 3x3 angle I used (notched for the pintle retainer bolt) obscures access to the bolts to hold the cooler in place.

View attachment 839973

View attachment 839975

I plan to cut the lower leg off where the bolts go so I can get a socket in there.

View attachment 839972

the fan will now blow upwards and just clears the pintle extension arm, so I have minimized my overall height.

I will also put some sort of a rock shield at some point to protect the fan.

View attachment 839974

.
Maybe a screen below it?
Bolt on kind of operation with expanded metal with a piece of 1 inch (or so) welded to flat iron on all four edges?

 

[Ronmar]

One quick question….

my hose connections into the cooler will need to turn a bit to aim more downward. I assume I loosen the jam nut then twist the body to my new angle, then tighten the jam nut again.

any gotchas to worry about?

Don’t think there are any gotchas. It would be a good time to make sure they are screwed in all the way I recall one person posting on how one of theirs fell or was knocked out as it only had a couple of threads engaged…

 

[ramdough]

Made more progress. I trimmed the angle in place with a cut off wheel. Not too bad for freehanding it. I wish it looked better, but no one will see it and it is functional, so I am moving on.


You can see that I can now get a wrench on the backside now.


primed the bare metal, will continue in the morning.

 

[ramdough]

Ok, one more quick question.

if you look at the line heading along the right to-what I am assuming is a thermostat valve. The hose comes up a bit high. It looks like the fitting there is just another straight o-ring boss with a jam nut. Should I at all be concerned with turning that down with a big crescent? [mention]Ronmar [/mention]



I am trying to keep my height low in that area to save space for water tanks. I could also put a 45 fitting there as an alternative. I plan to sleeve the hoses with aluminized fiberglass heat shields as you can already see the muffler caused hose damage.

 

[ramdough]

Painted the area black. Hopefully tonight I can measure hose lengths.



To add to the questions above….

a friend of mine asked if I could simply split the crimp ferrules off of the old hoses and reuse the fittings with new crimp ferrules. I am guessing it would be hard to match, but as anyone else heard of that? [mention]Ronmar [/mention]

 

[ramdough]

I opened the mount holes a little to make sure the cooler could “float a little.

I know the original had rigid connections and the holes were tight on two holes and 4 were slotted (tight on the sides though). I am wondering if I should put some rubber washers on both ends of the bolts to let the thing have a little room to flex. Any thoughts?

now just to measure and remove my hoses.

 

[ramdough]

I spoke to the local hydraulic hose company. These hoses are expensive.

I can get 1-1/8 DOT hoses with a braided cover or 1-1/4 hydraulic hoses (not DOT). The 1-1/4 ones are more money but larger.

The both hoses are $30 per foot ish and the fittings for the smaller size were $80 for the straights and $120 for the 90degree. The larger ones started at $120 per fitting and the elbow fittings were more (don’t remember exact number). Looking at some real $$$$$….. not unexpected, but also not pennies.

Thoughts on which hose to pick? [mention]Ronmar [/mention] [mention]Awesomeness [/mention]


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[Third From Texas]

That seems steep, but I should call around before I say that.

Was that a hose shop or someplace like Granger?

 

[ramdough]

That seems steep, but I should call around before I say that.

Was that a hose shop or someplace like Granger?

Hose shop.


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[B-Dog]

I think you might have a hard(er) time finding stock-ish replacements because the hose is oversize to the fittings. And considering you moved your cooler even farther away, you probably want the oversized lines.

Call hoseandfittings.com, they are so awesome, one of my favorite suppliers. The Build-A-Hose section doesn't have the right fittings so you'll have to call them. I'm also not sure if they can do oversized hose. I just went through this with Jim a month ago but I haven't ordered hoses yet. Through our discussion, I didn't have lengths so Jim shot me a quote in my account for later reference.
16R5-HT-16FJX-16FJX-12 is $50, that's the fittings plus assembly on a 12" hose of DOT100R5-HT (high temp) - just add cost for the extra length. The 16 is 1" which is $6/ft, though, you probably want bigger. IF they can do bigger hose with the 1in fittings, 1 1/4 is $7.75/ft and 1 1/2" is 11.75/ft.
Also, GP6504-16-16-04P for $16 is the fitting that I posted earlier in the thread which has a gauge port so you can retain the silly fluid checker valve deal or a tranny temp gauge.

Again, I haven't verified any of the above but I will soon - I just need to reach an almost-complete stopping point to make the order including a bunch of other hose and fittings.

 

[ramdough]

Just spoke with awesomeness. He said I should try the Parker store…. They are way cheaper. Will update you guys when I have better pricing.


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[ramdough]

I think you might have a hard(er) time finding stock-ish replacements because the hose is oversize to the fittings. And considering you moved your cooler even farther away, you probably want the oversized lines.

Call hoseandfittings.com, they are so awesome, one of my favorite suppliers. The Build-A-Hose section doesn't have the right fittings so you'll have to call them. I'm also not sure if they can do oversized hose. I just went through this with Jim a month ago but I haven't ordered hoses yet. Through our discussion, I didn't have lengths so Jim shot me a quote in my account for later reference.
16R5-HT-16FJX-16FJX-12 is $50, that's the fittings plus assembly on a 12" hose of DOT100R5-HT (high temp) - just add cost for the extra length. The 16 is 1" which is $6/ft, though, you probably want bigger. IF they can do bigger hose with the 1in fittings, 1 1/4 is $7.75/ft and 1 1/2" is 11.75/ft.
Also, GP6504-16-16-04P for $16 is the fitting that I posted earlier in the thread which has a gauge port so you can retain the silly fluid checker valve deal or a tranny temp gauge.

Again, I haven't verified any of the above but I will soon - I just need to reach an almost-complete stopping point to make the order including a bunch of other hose and fittings.

Wow…. Thanks. I might run the hose by the local shop to confirm fitting sizes. But that online source sounds great.


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[ramdough]

I did a few sanity checks. The fittings appear to be -16 or 1” jic37 fittings with 1-1/8 hoses.

One hose is 14’ with one straight and one 90degree end with my moved cooler

One hose is 13’6” with one straight and one 45 degree end with my moved cooler.

I also have one -4 that is 22’ of 3/8 hose with straight ends for the oil sample port. Due to my moved cooler.

Will post pricing and source once I have them.


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[Mullaney]

I did a few sanity checks. The fittings appear to be -16 or 1” jic37 fittings with 1-1/8 hoses.

One hose is 14’ with one straight and one 90degree end

One hose is 13’6” with one straight and one 45 degree end.

I also have one -4 that is 22’ of 3/8 hose with straight ends for the oil sample port.

Will post pricing and source once I have them.


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.
Take a look at this... You buy bulk hose, then use these connectors. They are reusable rather than the "crimped" hose ends.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[B-Dog]

I did a few sanity checks. The fittings appear to be -16 or 1” jic37 fittings with 1-1/8 hoses.

One hose is 14’ with one straight and one 90degree end with my moved cooler

One hose is 13’6” with one straight and one 45 degree end with my moved cooler.

I also have one -4 that is 22’ of 3/8 hose with straight ends for the oil sample port. Due to my moved cooler.

Will post pricing and source once I have them.


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Where is your sampling port pickup? Mine was up front, on the end that goes to the front cooler. In other words, the sampling port hose shouldn't have changed. I think if you want to utilize the sample port, you'll have to get 22ft of oil out before you reach the stuff that's actually circulating.

 

[Third From Texas]

Where is your sampling port pickup? Mine was up front, on the end that goes to the front cooler. In other words, the sampling port hose shouldn't have changed. I think if you want to utilize the sample port, you'll have to get 22ft of oil out before you reach the stuff that's actually circulating.

5-ton the same as 2.5? I know some of the 5-tons had the aux cooler but what I'm ignorant of is if they also included the forward cooler. I'm wondering if I really need both coolers (the aux I'm adding is a MONSTER twice the size of what they put on the 5-tons.

I'm somewhat surprised to hear that there is a run from aft to the sample, as well. I would have thought it picked up from any old place along the line (ie: closer to the front cooler...unless the front was not used on trucks with the aux cooler).

I've zero hands-on with a 5-ton and never really looked at the trans cooling system on one.

 

[Third From Texas]

Not to hijack, but I wonder if this is what I picked up. I can't find a better image, but my cooler is BAE (it could have come from anything).

Been contracted since '94 it appears...

30" x 20" by 9" (3" core)

National Stock Number NSN 2520-01-392-2330, 2520013922330

2520-01-392-2330 - 2520013922330 NSN. Request Quotes, Buy Online. Get detailed information For National Stock Number (NSN) 2520-01-392-2330 - 2520013922330.

www.iso-group.com

 

[ramdough]

Where is your sampling port pickup? Mine was up front, on the end that goes to the front cooler. In other words, the sampling port hose shouldn't have changed. I think if you want to utilize the sample port, you'll have to get 22ft of oil out before you reach the stuff that's actually circulating.

That is a good point. I am surprised that the sample port was not taken from the front cooler.

Right now I am only having luck finding -20 hoses with 2406-16-20 reducers on both ends. Seams like a lot to mess with.


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