Habitat Flooring

[Third From Texas]

I have my flooring (four boxes left over from a project that I picked up cheap), my underlayment, and I'm dropping section of electric floor heating element under the center section.

I've seen some builds where they lay the floor down in the entire hab and build over it, and some where they trim and only lay it down around walls and anything bolted down. One guy in a FB groups said that you HAVE to trim around any bolted-down area and leave 1/8" expansion gap.

I can see some pros with trimming around anything bolted down (replacement, not crushing the underlayment, etc).

But beyond that, does it really matter?

When all is said and done, I'd only be trimming out a 10' 2x2 run (the leading edge of my kitchen and shower), the 24" x 24" section under my dresser drawers, and a 90" x 2" strip. Honestly, I'd rather paint my walls, lay the floor, the bolt up the wall/counter. I want the flooring under everything else (except maybe the shower stall). But under the bed/storage area, under my kitchen cabinets, inside the electric closet, etc all will be floored. If I just lay it down it will save me a ton of time cutting flooring materials.

Thoughts?

How have you done it/seen it done?

*wouldn't have chosen this color, but at $5/box it was hard to pass up

 

[Third From Texas]

Another reason I'd like to lay it all down first and build over it is that I don't see how this innerlok (tongue-and-groove) stuff will stay down w/o being glued. One good logging trail and it's JINGA! Having some clamping force retaining (ie: the counter frame, dresser, shower wall, etc) will keep it from going anywhere. Can't really glue it if I'm using the underlayment and heating element.

 

[ToddJK]

Another reason I'd like to lay it all down first and build over it is that I don't see how this innerlok stuff will stay down w/o being glued. One good logging trail and it's JINGA! Having some clamping force retaining (ie: the counter frame, dresser, shower wall, etc) will keep it from going anywhere. Can't really glue it if I'm using the underlayment and heating element.

I can't say how that will hold up. Years ago when I worked at a home improvement store and that innerlok stuff first became available, it was all about simplicity for the installer. These still have plastic tabs that inter lock with one another? This product will definitely need plenty of support underneath, especially due to movement. As long as those don't break from the drive, then I think putting stuff down on it would be the way to keep it in place, and to the exact size of the floor, but if one did break out or become dislodge somehow, depending on your build, it may be a lot of work to fix it. Looks good though!

 

[Third From Texas]

I guess it's not "Interlock". II's just a tongue-and-groove/slide-together flooring planks you see at Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot.

 

[ToddJK]

I guess it's not "Interlock". II's just a tongue-and-groove/slide-together flooring planks you see at Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot.

Perhaps in your case, that will be better!

 

[chucky]

The most important is it 100 percent waterproof ????? Because at some point something will bust /pop / bend / break and it will be under water and you wont be there then if its not waterproof it buckles up the corner ends all turn up so dont waste your time if its not ! If it is and you have lots of it lay the whole floor and use locktite construction adhesive the big tubes its hands down 10 times better than liquid nails then mount all the furniture and cabinets to the floor then come back and lay the next level of foor fite up against the cabinets/ floorpan/ bed to lock it all in place then caulk all the edges heavy then youve got a floor !

 

[chucky]

They usually laid flooring last in bus builds to lock things in place and to help reduce squeaking and the fit and finish looked so much better . I laid ceramic tile in mine and used flexible grout that has turned out to work great and lets the floor flex without cracking in the joints and i can flood the floor and mop or muck out without problems and those tile i used were cheap and the black granite sqaures were also

 

[Third From Texas]

The most important is it 100 percent waterproof ????? Because at some point something will bust /pop / bend / break and it will be under water and you wont be there then if its not waterproof it buckles up the corner ends all turn up so dont waste your time if its not ! If it is and you have lots of it lay the whole floor and use locktite construction adhesive the big tubes its hands down 10 times better than liquid nails then mount all the furniture and cabinets to the floor then come back and lay the next level of foor fite up against the cabinets/ floorpan/ bed to lock it all in place then caulk all the edges heavy then youve got a floor !

It's why I wanted to go with vinyl. It's not like I'll be hosing it out like the good old days, but yeah...leaks, etc. I have hardwood floors in the house and have had water damage from a frozen pipe before. Makes the wood do interesting things.

The vinyl certainly won't hold up as well over time, but it will outlive me...

 

[chucky]

Either way there are some cheap alternatives that you can get wet and not sweat it ! And remember blood stains hardwood !

 

[ramdough]

For point of reference….. I plan on doing hydronic underfloor eating for the entire bottom with vinyl snap together “wood” planks across the entire thing.

By heating everything, you don’t get cold spots that can condense water or get moldy.

One thing to keep in mind…. Your floor may be waterproof, but your subfloor may not be.


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[Third From Texas]

For point of reference….. I plan on doing hydronic underfloor eating for the entire bottom with vinyl snap together “wood” planks across the entire thing.

By heating everything, you don’t get cold spots that can condense water or get moldy.

One thing to keep in mind…. Your floor may be waterproof, but your subfloor may not be.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep, the days of just hosing it out after the beach will be over once I install the flooring/underlayment/heating.

Good point on mold. I specifically designed my build with as much open space and airflow (accordion curtains vs doors, etc). Mold is a big issue down here in the South.