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Light bar!

ANG3CHEAPSHOT

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California
Couldn’t find anything in previous threads so I’m starting this post. I want to add a flood light light bar to the front of my 4 door M1123. I initially saw the 78” ibis tek light bar but it looks like it’s nearly impossible to find. Anyone know of a good alternative or have even fabricated their own?
thanks.
 

ToddJK

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I ran into this issue with my deuce. Finding a good place to mount extra lights was more difficult than I anticipated, especially when running a soft top and not drilling a bunch of holes everywhere.
Where are you wanting to mount the light bar? I know you said the front, but not sure if you're talking about the bumper or hood?
 

badger_610889

Active member
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I have a like new light bar that was on the slantback when I got it. I want only original parts on it, so while the flood bar is amazing at night I decided to remove it.

I saw some Humvees back in the days in Bosnia that had a sort of metal cap/sun-visor to hold some electronics and if I'd keep the bar, that's how I'd mount it:
Get a 2" wide, pretty thick aluminum plate bolted on the front above the windshield on all the width of the roof (the flat section of it) and mount the bar suspended there. You can rivet a rib on each side to make it look tough and better integrated.
My two cents...

By the way I can sell the flood bar for cheap if you want one. It comes with wiring, relay and a (crappy) switch.
 

ANG3CHEAPSHOT

Member
45
26
18
Location
California
I ran into this issue with my deuce. Finding a good place to mount extra lights was more difficult than I anticipated, especially when running a soft top and not drilling a bunch of holes everywhere.
Where are you wanting to mount the light bar? I know you said the front, but not sure if you're talking about the bumper or hood?
yeah I know exactly what you mean. I have a soft top. I wanted to mount a light bar across the top of the windshield.
 

ANG3CHEAPSHOT

Member
45
26
18
Location
California
I have a like new light bar that was on the slantback when I got it. I want only original parts on it, so while the flood bar is amazing at night I decided to remove it.

I saw some Humvees back in the days in Bosnia that had a sort of metal cap/sun-visor to hold some electronics and if I'd keep the bar, that's how I'd mount it:
Get a 2" wide, pretty thick aluminum plate bolted on the front above the windshield on all the width of the roof (the flat section of it) and mount the bar suspended there. You can rivet a rib on each side to make it look tough and better integrated.
My two cents...

By the way I can sell the flood bar for cheap if you want one. It comes with wiring, relay and a (crappy) switch.
I’m definitely interested in the flood bar you. It’s looking like what you’re saying is the best option. I think I’ll find some long metal L bar and attach it above the windshield for a base mount. How can I take a look at your flood bar and what’s state are you in?
 

ToddJK

Well-known member
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Location
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I used some 5' slotted angle irons and bolted through pre-existing holes in the cab.
I thought about the windshield frame, which would work with bolts rather than sheet metal screws. Add some washers between the frame and the angle iron so it will have clearance to not butt up against the button on the soft top. Mounting in the back just saved me time on cutting steel and drilling holes. Only problem I have, it shakes a little so the lights bounce. I don't like it, but until I find a solution, I'll have to live with it.
Depending on the curvature of the window frame (if any), you could heat up the steel with a torch and put it in a vise to give it a little bend and make sure when attached, it's not pressed against the soft top so it won't interfere should you remove it, though it will still make it difficult if mounts and attaches at the front like the deuce. At least the slotted angle iron allows you to virtual mount any light at any place with 5/16" bolts.

I'd also like to add, if you've never used the amber colored lights, I'd give them a try. Softer on the eyes while allowing you see through dust, fog, snow, and rain a lot better than white. That's why I ran both white and amber, white for the trail driving and amber for bad weather conditions.
 

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Coug

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Olympia/WA
for a 2 door soft top you could probably use the camouflage storage rack as a mounting point, if you can find one.
Rear is just flat feet that bolt down to the top of the B-pillar, so could probably be used with a 4 door soft top as well (but might look a little funny?)

124356076_1061361017617980_4974782203504282126_o.jpg
 

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badger_610889

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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North California, USA
Amber light is good for fog, rain and dust particularly combined with white beams. However if that's for bad weather (I'm in California so that's not common here) then I would not mount the bar above the windshield, but right below the hood deck otherwise the light creates a curtain that's a real problem...
 

ToddJK

Well-known member
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Location
Sparta, MI
I don't know if anything for the H1 is universal with the military humvee when it comes to body dimensions, but I did find this if it may be of interest,very similar to Andyrv6av8r, for the price,it may be worth it, or at least what's posted on here will give some good reference on a diy set up.
 

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TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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Supporting Vendor
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I don't know if anything for the H1 is universal with the military humvee when it comes to body dimensions, but I did find this if it may be of interest,very similar to Andyrv6av8r, for the price,it may be worth it, or at least what's posted on here will give some good reference on a diy set up.
Your link shows me sneakers. Using the categories ID comes up as “search not found”
 

williamh

Well-known member
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642
93
Location
SanDiego Ca.
As cool as it looks with the lightbar over the windshield , not that practical. The glare from the hood takes away from the ability to see farther away. Even with the flat paint on the hood it still doesn’t help unless you put a shield under the light to almost reflect it up. There’s a lot of trial and error , it really depends on why your putting lights on.
 
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