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Dark Seas M1008 Project

DarkSeas

Well-known member
201
310
63
Location
Leland, N.C.
Do yourself a HUGE favor and insulate those terminals on that relay, ASAP. There is some decent current flowing to that relay and you don't want to inadvertently find out how much of a STING it can give you (please don't ask how I know !!).
10-4. I need to switch the connectors around, I can insulate them when I do. Thanks for the heads up
 

DarkSeas

Well-known member
201
310
63
Location
Leland, N.C.
Been too long since I updated, Juniors back home locally for good. No more leaving for weeks at a time and coming back for a couple of days, thankfullyI put together my battery cables and Tom helped me get the starter back on with the new bolts I had bought at the very beginning of all this.

Next steps are making sure the fuel return lines are set right (right now we just have them covering the injectors, I might need a picture of the motor sides if anybody has one handy.)

I also need to find some loom retainer clips that run along the valve covers and hold the alternator/gp wiring. Minor detail that shouldn't keep the truck from running.

I've got a clean set of intake bolts on the way, and we'll be putting the intake, alternators, and belts back on soon. Finish up the wiring, put the battery boxes and batteries back in. New filters, new fluids, some fresh diesel, and see if she will crank back to life. It's been a long time from the broken starter bolt, my fiance wants this truck for our save the date photos, so I've got the help I need, the parts I need, and the fire under me to get her running soon.
 

DarkSeas

Well-known member
201
310
63
Location
Leland, N.C.
Spent a lot of time over the past weekend and another 5 hours yesterday at the shop. Got the intake mounted with a new gasket and hardware. Getting those injector line clips in the right spot was awful, we ended up having to back the injector lines off.

As she sits now, we just need the vacuum lines, belts, air cleaner, and the wiring to hook up and work.

Can anybody tell me if that vacuum regulator by the throttle is supposed to have any tension on it just sitting? That was a question that came up last night I didn't have an answer. I assumed no, because I don't remember the old one breaking tension when it came off.


20230227_220159.jpg20230227_220143.jpg
 

ssdvc

Well-known member
971
639
93
Location
CT
That vacuum regulator should be bolted down, two 3/8" (I think) short bolts. You'll need to set up (towards or away from the firewall)), before you tighten everything down.
 

DarkSeas

Well-known member
201
310
63
Location
Leland, N.C.
Found the thread talking about adjusting the vacuum regulator based on 20 at the pump and 8 to the transmission. That will be adjustments made when the motor runs.

We ran into a bit of a snag with the new power steering pump and driver alternator mounted - the pulleys arent lining up quite right. I took some pictures of the hardware to see if anybody can see where the issue is.

20230301_184124.jpg

According to the TM diagrams, everything should be kosher. But the pulleys arent lining up. We have to pry the alternator bracket to line up the support rod/arm that connects to the intake stud.

Feel free to take a deep look at the following photos and find where my problem may be.

20230301_184150.jpg

20230301_184204.jpg20230301_184256.jpg20230301_184316.jpg20230301_184338.jpg
20230301_184414.jpg20230301_184422.jpg20230301_184428.jpg

The TM diagrams are figure 33 and figure 132 on 34P. Those account for the driverside alternator and the power steering pump mounting hardware.
 

DIVE DIVE

Well-known member
217
778
93
Location
Chesapeake, VA
I can see you have the lifting plate installed and the studs seem to be in the correct orientation…it’s hard to say. Can’t imagine why it wouldn’t be lined up. Did you put a straight edge on it?
 

DarkSeas

Well-known member
201
310
63
Location
Leland, N.C.
I threw a belt on and held it tight with my hand, it didn't look horrible but the power steering pump looks pretty off compared to the rest of the pulleys, and there's something up with the driver alternator top bracket because I can't adjust the alternator whatsoever. Nothing's tightened down except the top bracket bolts to the block, and that connecting arm that goes to the intake manifold bolt won't line up, it's close but you'd have to bend the bracket to make it fit. The passenger side was kind of the same way, it fought me like hell getting the passenger alternator on and then it wasn't lining up for the adjustment bolt.
 

Buck69

Member
53
90
18
Location
Northern British Columbia
Hey Jack. Looks like you have your work cut out for you with all of the butchering that has been done on your truck.
I just picked up the same truck as you. The only items removed, were the engine and cooling package. All electrical harnesses and components (less engine mounted starter and generators) are intact and in there correct locations. Let me know if you want me to send you any pics of anything.
I am early into my project but have everything opened up. Just removed fuel tank and cleaned/flushed fuel system. Found a nice 4 core rad and am shipping out for cleaning/testing. I am planning on fitting mine with a 5.7 Vortec and swapping out the cluster to one with the appropriate gauges. It will be a clean installation.
Here's a few pics.
IOIZ3384.JPGJFIA8783.JPGIMG_6765.JPGIMG_6803.JPGIMG_6840.JPG
 

DarkSeas

Well-known member
201
310
63
Location
Leland, N.C.
I've got it down on the driverside. Took it all the way back down to the lift point:

20230306_185819.jpg20230306_190150.jpg

Here's the hardware I got off:

1. Alternator bolts
20230306_185956.jpg

2. Alternator bracket with 2 bolts that go into the bracket between the lift point and the alternator.

20230306_185950.jpg

3. Power steering pump bracket hardware (oriented if you're looking straight on at the pulley)

20230306_185930.jpg

4. Big bracket that sits between the alternator bracket and lift point bracket with nut that goes on the stud and bolt that goes on the bottom into the block
20230306_185911.jpgl

Some shots of my power steering pump:

20230306_190935.jpg20230306_190957.jpg

It has an eyelet at the bottom I cant get a good picture of that sits against the bracket on the bottom hooked to the block:

20230306_191147.jpg

Can anyone tell here if I'm missing something that would make the PS pump misaligned and the alternator bracket not accept the rod that connects to it at the top?
 

DarkSeas

Well-known member
201
310
63
Location
Leland, N.C.
Side question: does anybody know a diagram reference for putting on that larger driverside bracket? I feel like that is the thing causing all my alignment issues. The PS pump diagram shows the PS install assuming that bracket is already on correctly.

Edit: I found it. Figure 30 on 34P

Screenshot_20230306_193911_OneDrive.jpg
 
Last edited:

deank

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
217
384
63
Location
Florida
My 2 cents if it helps. Looking at the first picture of you holding the PS pump, I see two washers on the studs in the head. I do not see those on figure 33 of the 34P. The may be contributing to the alignment issues.
 

deank

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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384
63
Location
Florida
I pulled two pics for you to look at the differences. First up is a pictures of yours zoomed in to see the gap of the bracket to the head on yours.
C298C2AE-EAF9-4EF9-8ACD-A39CC22BEED4.png
the second is a picture of mine at the same location. No washers.
3CA48BF9-89A1-4410-99A8-84B2331FC6EB.png
 

DarkSeas

Well-known member
201
310
63
Location
Leland, N.C.
No washers.
You'd be correct brother. I found a washer took it out according to the TM and here's what I've got now:

20230306_205312.jpg
20230306_205318.jpg

Good alignment on the PS pump, able to mount the alternator bracket rod arm thing to the intake. I made a few people proud tonight. Cheers man. And good eye - I had it fixed already but you were right on the money.
 

DarkSeas

Well-known member
201
310
63
Location
Leland, N.C.
These angles look right?
20230306_214156.jpg

Might be my eyes but that PS pump looks closer to 90 than the alternator on the driver side. Granted the pump looks way better than it did but still.
 

DarkSeas

Well-known member
201
310
63
Location
Leland, N.C.
Try putting a straight edge across the pulleys and see how they plane in . The Po might have had the same issue hence the washers?
What do ya mean the Po?

Before the PS pump had a broken wing on it on the far driver side. This one's solid. Only thing original is the brackets and on the PS pump that bottom bracket never came out it stayed there. The PS pump and attached bracket are all new.
 
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