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Due to the length of the cable i can't put my multimeter on both ends. But I checked for resistance at the sending unit, and at the end of the wire going into the gage and the reading was the same. 6 - 7ohms at ambient temp.
Can't hurt to buy a new gauge and temp sending unit, worse comes to worse, you'll have spare parts for when you do need it if that's not the issue. I don't need a new fuel gauge or generator gauge, but I bought them anyways when I found a good deal on them. Same with bulbs, I have enough to replace all the bulbs in every part of the truck two times over, lol.
I'd love to have the space for that
My shop cupboard is running out of room!First thing I replaced was the temp sending unit.. spare parts aren't so bad. I have a few bulbs now myself, napa insist I buy the whole box.
Oh believe me, my deuce stuff takes up most of our shed and about half my shelf on my work bench. My old lady complains about it all the timeI'd love to have the space for that
Let it run with the radiator cap off and watch the neck. Start it and as it heats up, should see air bubbles come out. Once the bubbles are practically gone and it's a steady flow that is wanting to come out, you got the air out. Typically when full, the coolant should be in the neck of the full tube, or if you aren't on top looking down, you should be able to dip your middle finger in coolant when reaching above. If there's continuous bubbles and it never stops bubbling, that's typically a sign of combustion gasses getting into the coolant system, which means head gasket failure.
These multifuels typically run cooler on idle compared to normal vehicles, the coolant system is quiet effective to say the least, lol. No bubbles, that's good and as long as the coolant level is full, check it after a few drives to make sure it's still full, if so, you're good. Hopefully that new temp gauge gets you squared away on that issue. Out of all the gauges, imo, the temp and air gauge(s) are the important ones. I can do without a speedo/rpm, generator and fuel, but air does the brakes and in some cases, steering, and we know that's a needed function. The temp gauge is the only sure way to know if something is really wrong without physical proof like steam, smoke, ect. It's also more accurate in the sense that if those generator/water pump belts come off or break, you'll know as the temp begins to get into unfamiliar territory. My belts have shredded in the fan on me three times and never heard it happen once, but the temp gauge was always the clear indicator as it was above normal. A quick inspection under the hood proved the gauge was not faulting out, the belts were now shredded pieces of rubber.
As much as the thought of the multi fuel engine intrigued me, my m35a3 has the cat 3116 engine.
My bad, I do that sometimes, lol. Surprisingly, after owning two M35's, I've never been stranded by a mechanical failure, fuel issue, or even a blown tire (knock on wood), it's always been those darn belts. The third time I had extras on hand and the tools to do it, so I wasn't stranded for long, but the first two times was rediculous and embarrassing at the same time, lol.
The belts likely didn't age well, along with the lower rad hose. I appreciate the info
If those windshield panels are what I think they are, they may require some cutting around the gasket and maybe some redrilling of hardware holes in the frame. My dad went that route with his M37, which I believe uses the same windshield panels.
Are you sure about that? The fan makes a loud WHOOSH sound when it's engaged with a noticeable breeze coming out of the front wheel wells, otherwise it just windmills. I believe if the fan clutch were to fail for some reason that it actually fails in the "Off" position instead of the "On" position, against conventional wisdom.
You are correct, fan isn't going full send. It's just wind milling..
