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Finally got me a deuce!

Balalala

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Canada
The CTIS will work as long as there's space in the hub for air to flow from the inner wheel bearing into the hole in the side of the hub that's piped into the hollow wheel stud.

It looks like you'll have to modify or fabricate stone shields to fit around the lockout hub. You can probably do without the shields unless you're planning on off-roading with the truck.
I live in the mountains more or less, I don't plan on taking it into the bush. But at the same time I know it will end up there, sooner or later.

I will post pics of how I make out. Luckily the shields are cheap, if I mangle one. They may end up only being held on by the outer bolts, but I think ¾ of a sheild is better than no shield at all.
 
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Balalala

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Location
Canada
Any of you know what this upper arm is for?

20230709_121352.jpg

I have boot guards from Western Canadian Rockwell, and the upper boot guard mounts onto these 4 bolts.

20230709_121457.jpg

Not sure if it is a steering arm, or what.. it is connected to output part of the steering. It is not flat ontop, but it is underneath.

20230709_121233.jpg

If it won't mess things up, and I can get longer bolts, I'm thinking of installing the boot guard underneath of the arm, instead of ontop of it. It would raise the back end of the arm up about a ¼ inch.

Thoughts or suggestions? I really want to get these guards on

received_1309280933014872.jpeg
 

ToddJK

Well-known member
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Sparta, MI
Pretty sure that's part of the steering arm. Looks like you'll need longer bolts, but I have no idea if that would make your steering any different or affect the safety aspect of it.
 
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Balalala

Well-known member
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292
63
Location
Canada
Are you going to be trashing steering knuckle boots enough to need those? I'd consider getting zipper boots and replace them as needed.
I doubt I will ever technically need them.. but to be honest, I would bullet proof the entire truck if I could. Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it I figure.

Guys on here suggested being that the truck is new to me, that I go with the HD boots and have the front bearings checked / repacked. Instead of going with the zipper boots.

I figured the time and money spent doing that I should protect them from any future mishaps.
 

Balalala

Well-known member
113
292
63
Location
Canada
Pretty sure that's part of the steering arm. Looks like you'll need longer bolts, but I have no idea if that would make your steering any different or affect the safety aspect of it.
Longer bolts shouldn't be hard to find.. I am going to see what the mechanic says tomorrow when I bring it in. Hopefully he can just wave his magic wand and get them put on for me.
 

Balalala

Well-known member
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Location
Canada
So.. I contacted Western Canadian Rockwell. I asked them about their guards fitting on the deuce. They mentioned the steering arm on the drivers side, and that it would need a custom part made. If that was something I was interested in, they would go ahead and figure out a cost and time frame for me.

I confessed and said I had already purchased the boot guards. I asked if I could install it underneath the steering arm. They replied back to my email again the very next day.

They said no no, don't install it underneath the steering arm. Asked if It was ok with me, they would build the part and send it out free. Said it would take about a month.

I'm amazed with their customer service.

I will install passenger side upper and lower guard, and the drivers side lower for now. Until the proper upper shows up

20230709_205209.jpg
 
Last edited:

pitpawten

Active member
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Location
Centreville, Maryland
Yeah I would agree not to install underneath of the steering arm. These are studs coming from the knuckle, not bolts and there is a spacer ( 8 ) that needs to get greased from the zerks on top. The steering arm is designed to sit directly in to of the knuckle.

Screenshot_20230711_032318_Adobe Acrobat.jpg
 

Balalala

Well-known member
113
292
63
Location
Canada
Yeah I would agree not to install underneath of the steering arm. These are studs coming from the knuckle, not bolts and there is a spacer ( 8 ) that needs to get greased from the zerks on top. The steering arm is designed to sit directly in to of the knuckle.

View attachment 901278
Thanks for the pic and the info. There are grease zerks on the both the top and bottom guards.

I had a suspicion that they were studs and not bolts. Are these axles not quite the same as a regular 2.5t Rockwell axle?

Are the studs only used on where the steering arm is connected?
 

Balalala

Well-known member
113
292
63
Location
Canada
Ahhhhhh! Got my deuce back, everything seemed fine. About an hour drive home, during the drive it had a bit of a hard shift into 4th. Kind of made a bit of a clunk sound..

When I got home I checked the transmission fluid and it came out with enough force it hit me in the face!

What's going on here??
 

HDN

Well-known member
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Location
Finger Lakes Region, NY
My truck always clunks into 4th when I suddenly take my foot off the gas at around 30 MPH. Running it through the gears with full pedal it's a pretty smooth shift. I am still running 15W-40, though.

Sounds like a vent is clogged on the transmission. It shouldn't be shooting any oil out of the dipstick tube like that. I believe the vent line/tube runs up the back wall outside the cab.

1691187936601.png
 

Balalala

Well-known member
113
292
63
Location
Canada
My truck always clunks into 4th when I suddenly take my foot off the gas at around 30 MPH. Running it through the gears with full pedal it's a pretty smooth shift. I am still running 15W-40, though.

Sounds like a vent is clogged on the transmission. It shouldn't be shooting any oil out of the dipstick tube like that. I believe the vent line/tube runs up the back wall outside the cab.

View attachment 902813
Thanks HDN, after posting this I went on the hunt to find the culprit. Damn wasp had plugged the breather line
 
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