• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Looking for M1078A1 ABS troubleshooting guide

GeneralDisorder

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,035
5,224
113
Location
Portland, OR
Easiest thing to do is hookup a laptop with WABCO Toolbox and get the codes - it will also read live wheel speed and it's usually immediately apparent what the issue is...... Without talking to the ABS controller there's really no way to know what it's complaining about. Best you can do is guess because there is no self-diagnostic mode for the WABCO unit - start by cleaning every wheel speed sensor. A bit of dirt on them (they are mildly magnetic) will cause them to not read wheel speed and that will set a DTC and turn on the indicator light.
 

serpico760

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
687
1,753
93
Location
San Diego, CA
WABCO Toolbox:

Used with any laptop and a serial Dearborn DPA-III or a USB DPA-IV, or a NEXiQ adapter, etc. Any RP1210 adapter really
View attachment 908030
Which of those things you mentioned actually connects to something on the vehicle? Is it that connector that's next to the driver's left knee? Is it a wire with that connector on one end and a USB plug or something to connect to the computer on the other side or is it some kind of wireless dongle?
 

GeneralDisorder

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,035
5,224
113
Location
Portland, OR
Which of those things you mentioned actually connects to something on the vehicle? Is it that connector that's next to the driver's left knee? Is it a wire with that connector on one end and a USB plug or something to connect to the computer on the other side or is it some kind of wireless dongle?
The Dearborn Protocol Adapters (3 and 4/4+) are what I use. Yes they connect to the port next to the battery disconnect switch in front of the driver's left knee. That port is a standard heavy duty diagnostic connection used by all medium and heavy duty truck applications. The DPA-3 uses a serial connection to the laptop (DB9) and the DPA4/+ uses USB.

Those handheld scanners work OK for simple stuff, but the laptop software for CAT, Allison, Dana, and WABCO have more functionality, built in troubleshooting information, ability to program things like injector serial numbers (C7 trucks), etc.
 

serpico760

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
687
1,753
93
Location
San Diego, CA
The Dearborn Protocol Adapters (3 and 4/4+) are what I use. Yes they connect to the port next to the battery disconnect switch in front of the driver's left knee. That port is a standard heavy duty diagnostic connection used by all medium and heavy duty truck applications. The DPA-3 uses a serial connection to the laptop (DB9) and the DPA4/+ uses USB.

Those handheld scanners work OK for simple stuff, but the laptop software for CAT, Allison, Dana, and WABCO have more functionality, built in troubleshooting information, ability to program things like injector serial numbers (C7 trucks), etc.
Thank you I guess the battery disconnect was included on later trucks I have a very early model A1 which is almost in A0.5. the only battery disconnect was over by the battery.
 

Skyhawk13205

Well-known member
157
269
63
Location
Alaska
So, are there CAT and Allison cartridges for MPSI's pro link 9000?
Yeah, it can pretty much communicate with every ECU on the A1 3126 varriant.


With a prolink 9000 and applicable cartridge

You will need a:
prolink 9000 J38500-1
MPC J-38500-1500C

For ABS ecu: Rockwell wabco abs/atc cartridge

Can read codes and see outputs and do test

For engine ECU: v1.11 202024 cartridge

Can run test, read codes, adjust cruise control limits.

For transmission: pcmia 805005

Run test, see diagnostics and see codes

For CTIS: pcmia 804001

Can read codes and change tire pressure settings and run tests.
 

Attachments

hike

—realizing each day
Steel Soldiers Supporter
531
838
93
Location
Texas Hill Country
So, with no TM pages, nor finding any suggestions; started following wires, checking connections, pulling out the sensors to clean them up.

IMG_3567.jpeg

Dirty. One rear came out, the other wouldn't quite clear the brake shoe. As we rotate the tires and adjust the brakes, we will clean them all up.

Still looking at different diagnostic setups: windows based laptop versions appear to have the most capabilities; several direct plug scanners seem appropriate for my skill set and likely number of times I may use in relation to cost; plenty of cheap units that likely are just frustrating and of little value.

The better direct scanners read multiple systems, allow resetting, and a small amount of programming, leaving the more complicated configurations as read only. Looking for a Prolink 9000 and the appropriate cartridges now. Thank you @Skyhawk13205. I keep wondering must I find an old unit and cartridges, or will some of the newer units work as well?
 
Last edited:

Lostchain

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
285
587
93
Location
Portland, OR
So, with no TM pages, nor finding any suggestions; started following wires, checking connections, pulling out the sensors to clean them up.
Not trying to be a jerk but I see this theme on the forum over and over and over. "I am going to trouble-shoot a completely computerized system, without using the diagnostics in the computer" How much sense does that make?

Right now you could buy this on ebay and have the means to interface with every system on the truck. You would need a laptop with a serial port or USB to Serial adapter and software that members on the forum can give you and you are good to go. This person has make offer enabled so beat them up on their price and get the right tool for the job.

 

hike

—realizing each day
Steel Soldiers Supporter
531
838
93
Location
Texas Hill Country
Not trying to be a jerk but I see this theme on the forum over and over and over. "I am going to trouble-shoot a completely computerized system, without using the diagnostics in the computer" How much sense does that make?

Right now you could buy this on ebay and have the means to interface with every system on the truck. You would need a laptop with a serial port or USB to Serial adapter and software that members on the forum can give you and you are good to go. This person has make offer enabled so beat them up on their price and get the right tool for the job.

You are not being a jerk. I am in the wilderness here, learning new unfamiliar things; looking for just such a tool.

This particular listing hasn't appeared in any of my searches over the past several weeks, though if it had, nothing in my current knowledge base would have given me the confidence to purchase it. For example in the description: "An adapter kit containing items such as adapters, cables, power supply, switching units, and auxiliary test means. Cases and special tools may be included. It is used to adapt items to the standard interface of a piece of test equipment."

What are the "standard interface of a piece of test equipment"? I see serial and parallel connections. You mention a 'USB to serialadaptor' which I have never heard of: forgive me I use Linux and fruit. Perhaps that information is in a TM I have yet to read.

@GeneralDisorder has criticized me as well. Though at least he suggested the sensors were the most likely item to first check. Which, while trying to find diagnostic equipment on the interwebs, I started with. Hence my earlier post. All good, I am a dumb noob. Shoot away, hopefully I won't get shot before I learn to keep my head down.

I don't have unlimited resources and also want to find the best use case for my use. So, I ask questions and and post stupid comments here with photographs when I can't find the 'myriad of old posts' already answering my question.

Thank you for your suggestion, but it still leaves me in the wilderness not knowing the best path forward. My wife has a Windows laptop with a dvd/cd drive and a usb connection. If I spend over $500 on this tool will it help me? If so, I'll give it a try on your recommendation. <edit: purchased, awaiting arrival to determine if usb to serial needs a male or female serial connection, and likely another laptop as hers probably has too new a version of Windows. Just what I wished to avoid>

All good, I appreciate the help—
 
Last edited:

hike

—realizing each day
Steel Soldiers Supporter
531
838
93
Location
Texas Hill Country
Have you tried this?
I did not find this helpful. Perhaps I am too slow to understand its use. The troubleshooting section refers to blink codes. Is the dash light supposed to blink? or is that somewhere else? Perhaps I gave up reading through this too soon—
 

Lostchain

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
285
587
93
Location
Portland, OR
@GeneralDisorder has criticized me as well. Though at least he suggested the sensors were the most likely item to first check.
The reason I didn't suggest a sensor to check, is because that is a waste of time. Let me ask you this question. If your ABS ECU is complaining that you have a faulted ABS Modulator (and you don't know because you haven't pulled codes), what is the point of messing with the wheel sensors? Checking wheel sensors at BEST wasted a bunch of time, and at worst introduced more failures into your system by monkeying around with wires and sensors that didn't need to be touched. The point I am trying to make to you and anyone else who has problems with the computerized systems on the truck; is that wheather it is CTIS, the ABS, the transmission or the engine, the first and most important step to accomplish is pull the codes.

purchased, awaiting arrival to determine if usb to serial needs a male or female serial connection, and likely another laptop as hers probably has too new a version of Windows. Just what I wished to avoid>
Good! now you are well on the way to self sufficiency in troubleshooting.


First, in regards to the USB to Serial Adapter:

buy any one of these that has good reviews and works with whatever version your wifes computer has, this one looks good to me:


The Black 9 pin cable that comes with the kit you bought will plug right into the USB/Serial adapter and the DPA3, no other adapters are needed.

Second, in regards to windows version and a dedicated laptop:

A dedicated laptop would be a good idea, but you can get rolling with your wifes laptop as soon as your ICE kit arrives by simply downloading the latest DPA drivers for the DPA3 you now own. These work great with windows 10 and come with a free DG code puller that should allow you to grab the ABS codes and then use the WABCO document I linked earlier to get to the root of your ABS Problems.

The Latest Legacy Drivers are available at the following link, and the first time they connect to your DPA adapter, they will likely want to upgrade the firmware, and you will want to allow this to happen.


Once you get the laptop working with the Dearborn Drivers and software, you will have some basic functionality available to work with.
You can also get the DANA software which is free and will give you all the insight you need into your CTIS System.

https://dml.dana.com/assetbank-dana/assetfile/7980.zip

If you need to go deeper, this is where I would recommend getting a standalone laptop, because some of the versions of software that folks have usually are cracked versions that shouldn't talk to the internet...
 

aw113sgte

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
634
947
93
Location
La Crosse, WI
Just FYi, I have had pretty good luck with the Dearborn 3+ using a serial adapter for everything except the wabco software(win10). Connects but. Doesn't read anything useful, strange. Waiting on a laptop with a serial port to arrive and will try again.
 

GeneralDisorder

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,035
5,224
113
Location
Portland, OR
The reason I didn't suggest a sensor to check, is because that is a waste of time. Let me ask you this question. If your ABS ECU is complaining that you have a faulted ABS Modulator (and you don't know because you haven't pulled codes), what is the point of messing with the wheel sensors? Checking wheel sensors at BEST wasted a bunch of time, and at worst introduced more failures into your system by monkeying around with wires and sensors that didn't need to be touched.
Yeah not the greatest approach but that is literally what the military would do. Have some grunts clean the wheel speed sensors because in their experience it's the most common issue and often corrects the problem (ABS MIL). So for someone that has no capability to talk to the computer it's at least something you could relatively easily do if you're bored and just waiting for a scan tool solution.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks