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Dark Seas M1008 Project

DarkSeas

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Leland, N.C.
See if you turn it off all the way to see if it'll lock the steering wheel. It should lock. If not changing the cylinder takes 2 pullers. One for the wheel and one for the spring lock under the horn. Not hard and not expensive.

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So I can get the steering wheel to lock, but I can turn the ignition cylinder with no key in it and the wheel unlocks with it. Super weird. I have seen a video of someone taking off the wheel and getting to the cylinder to replace it. I might look it up in the next month or two, the cylinder is like $35 but the pullers and stuff will add onto that bill.
 

WWRD99

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York Pa
So I can get the steering wheel to lock, but I can turn the ignition cylinder with no key in it and the wheel unlocks with it. Super weird. I have seen a video of someone taking off the wheel and getting to the cylinder to replace it. I might look it up in the next month or two, the cylinder is like $35 but the pullers and stuff will add onto that bill.
Ok so sounds like the cylinder is worn out. I know you can rent the puller tool from advance auto but I'm not sure about the press for the c clip...some have that in it. Those are cheap to get though. Things I like to replace while in there are the parts for the horn...all of them! The insulator likes to fall apart and little springs like to fly.

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DarkSeas

Well-known member
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63
Location
Leland, N.C.
Been a while since an update. Have been working on my 2013 GMC 1500 (my daily) replacing the entire front suspension over a weekend. Finally got the money for the parts together and then the weather right over a weekend to get that done. Jack stands in a parking lot apartment - I had a lot of spectators giving me unsolicited advice but never offering to put their hands on a wrench with me. Figures, right? She's fixed and aligned now and still rides like crap, which is awesome.

I've tinkered a little with the CUCV while I wait out the wedding (early Oct) -- have not messed with the lock cylinder yet but I have gone and adjusted the IP timing a bit to get it to stop smoking at idle by about 95%, to the point where it isn't noticeable at all anymore. Crazy thing is, I've got it WAY farther to the driverside to get it happy than it should have ever needed, but the more I inched it back a line width at a time, the harder it was to start/jerkier it was idling/and more it smoked. Maybe it slipped timing or someone messed with the timing cover and didn't time it right putting it back together? Who knows.

I also went with an IR temp gun and checked all my exhaust ports on the exhaust manifold on a cold start to see if I had any cylinders really struggling to keep up with the rest, didn't really notice anything there. All cylinder exhaust ports seemed to be within 5F of each other, I'd say that's fine. Was looking for like a 15-25F difference from the rest to see if I really did have a compression issue.

Let's see... exterminated some fire ants that decided to move in when the field behind the truck flooded during the hurricane. Also diagnosed that I've got a bad dimmer switch and that looks like a really cheap fix that can improve my QOL with the truck - saw a new switch for $13. Not bad.

Looking at my new valve cover gaskets leaking oil, and all the oil leaks the motor seems to be struggling with, I thought about the fact that I know the intake is sucking oil vapor up through the CDR valve and burning it, likely that last 5% of smoke I see at idle. Might be an easy fix to replace the CDR with an oil catch can that drains back into the pan somehow. At least that way it's not BURNING oil anymore, it's just leaking it.

Also started thinking about tinkering with the steering gearbox that's got a leak, or the rotting out inner fenders I could replace for $40 each and put stock battery trays back in... but I have to keep telling myself...

"No Jack, don't take apart something else. Laney wants this truck at the wedding in a month and you always get yourself in over your head on these projects. Also you're broke from wedding expenses"

Soon, soon. Hope everyone's doing well.
 

DarkSeas

Well-known member
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306
63
Location
Leland, N.C.
Check the ID plate on your injection pump. You might have a HMMWV IP on there. That's what's on my M1009 and I had to turn the timing way up to stop it smoking.
That's interesting. What would typically indicate that on the plate? I can probably look at that tomorrow after work
 

CARC686

Well-known member
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409
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Location
Las Cruces, New Mexico
As far as I know, DB2829-4267 is OEM for all 6.2L NA CUCVs. DB2829-4879 is what's available brand new off the shelf. They'll tell you it's good for the CUCV, but I've spent the past year screwing around with fuel and timing and airflow to get it to quit belching unburnt diesel out the tailpipes. It's pretty good now, but not worth the hassle IMO.
 

adf5565

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Tioga, PA
During replacement of timing chains on these motors I've also seen the worn chain causing the cam (and thus the IP) to be off by a few degrees from the crankshaft compared to the new chain. Which would make it so you have the IP turned more than expected. The main thing is it runs well so that's more important than where the line is.
 
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