Another Ahab
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CUCV2/CUCV-II Owners, post pics and info of your truck
- Thread starter Warthog
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NervousAgent
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Picked this one up at FT Dix. Shopping LSSV’s and found this. A former MD ARNG TMP vehicle and a NG SF Team truck. It’s had a soft life. I got lucky. Very little rust. 85k miles. A near perfect interior.
I’ll probably recondition, lift 6”, and make it an EOD truck. I found lots of paperwork too. It started life with SEALS in WA, until the Green Berets in MD stole it. Sorry. Acquired it.
If anyone is parting out a truck? I’m missing the front tow/lift shackles.
Also, if anyone has access to the manuals? I would appreciate a copy. Thanks.
I’ll probably recondition, lift 6”, and make it an EOD truck. I found lots of paperwork too. It started life with SEALS in WA, until the Green Berets in MD stole it. Sorry. Acquired it.
If anyone is parting out a truck? I’m missing the front tow/lift shackles.
Also, if anyone has access to the manuals? I would appreciate a copy. Thanks.
Another Ahab
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There is no TM for the CUCV II/III, they only had supplemental manuals. The LSSV program has more manuals, but I have attached the supplemental manual for the CUCV II series.
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I appreciate that. I wish there was more support for these units. I've got a crank no start situation and no shop will touch it.
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Why not? The vehicle is literally no different than a regular k2500. It is not a 24v start system. It's just a regular k2500 truck with a green paint job and blackout light system. The 24v is for jumping other vehicles and radio equipment.
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Not to highjack threads but did the exhaust smell like diesel when cranking?
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NervousAgent
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Hrbergeron, thanks for the manual. Full color too! Super cool. I’m gonna print a fake one for the glovebox! Thank you!
FuzzyToaster:
Mine was also crank no start.
I followed the Accurate Diesel 6.5 guide for no start. Worked in record time. Mine runs like a champ.
www.accuratediesel.com
I also read everything here about CUCV2. Like the inverter behind the seat has a fuse, and it can interfere with charging.
Really though. There isn’t a whole lot different in these trucks. Should be super easy to work on.
lastly. Mine responded well to heating up the block heater for 4 hours, bleeding fuel at filter and two new strong batteries.
Fired right up, after I followed the checklist, heated the block, and primed the fuel filter. I obviously needed new glow plugs or a controller. I had a few corroded grounds too. Typical 6.5 issues. Like do you have a fresh secondary PMD? Get one, if not.
A lot of great data here.
And over at Accurate Diesel.
Good luck! You’ll get it eventually. A 6.5 is pretty easy after the basics are all lined up.
Oh. Everyone check your old harmonic balancer rubber. Mine is aged and I am replacing ASAP, before I lose a crank.
FuzzyToaster:
Mine was also crank no start.
I followed the Accurate Diesel 6.5 guide for no start. Worked in record time. Mine runs like a champ.
6.5L Diesel Engine Cranking But Not Starting Diagnostic Guide
6.5 diesel engine cranking but not starting? Test your PMD and get answers with our step-by-step No-Start Diagnosis Guide to fixing your 6.5L Diesel!
www.accuratediesel.com
I also read everything here about CUCV2. Like the inverter behind the seat has a fuse, and it can interfere with charging.
Really though. There isn’t a whole lot different in these trucks. Should be super easy to work on.
lastly. Mine responded well to heating up the block heater for 4 hours, bleeding fuel at filter and two new strong batteries.
Fired right up, after I followed the checklist, heated the block, and primed the fuel filter. I obviously needed new glow plugs or a controller. I had a few corroded grounds too. Typical 6.5 issues. Like do you have a fresh secondary PMD? Get one, if not.
A lot of great data here.
And over at Accurate Diesel.
Good luck! You’ll get it eventually. A 6.5 is pretty easy after the basics are all lined up.
Oh. Everyone check your old harmonic balancer rubber. Mine is aged and I am replacing ASAP, before I lose a crank.
ghostraider117
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They strategically. Transferred. A piece of equipment. To a alternate location
Stonepicker1
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The starter is 24 V not 12 V
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My truck cranks insanely fast when on a slave (Twice as fast as when on two fresh batteries). The 12v gauge pegs over 19v and my 24v gauge barely moves above the resting position. Thoughts?
Stonepicker1
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my guess and it’s only a guess is that somebody replaced your 24 V starter with a 12 V starter and maybe messed with the wiring / battery cables on the driver side battery.
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The starter should absolutely not be 24v. I own 3, assisted with multiple others straight from uncle sam, and not a single one ever had a 24v starter.
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Sounds to me like your start system is wired incorrectly and you are sending 24v to a 12v starter. Jumping with a slave shouldn't really work well for starting your vehicle if everything is connected stock since it is a 12v starter.
The 24v gauge gets signal voltage from the voltage converter. The voltage converter also will change voltage based on the output voltage of your alternator. In addition if it is still only showing 24v and not around 28v while running, take the protective cover off and verify that the fuses are good. I've popped mine after running the batteries super low and the converter didn't like having to charge them from zero.
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It only does this when slaved so there is indeed 24v going to the starter but only at that time, otherwise it cranks like a 6.5L should. I'll check the voltage converter again. The 24v gauge shows nothing unless I put the truck on a slave and it senses the 24v from the master vehicle so something is screwy here.