HMMWV 6.5 New fuel Injector, no fuel to Injectors. PLEASE HELP!!!

[Loose Boots]

Hey guys, so heres whats happening. Installed a new fuel injector pump. I have fuel flowing all the way to the pump. If I remove to top hose and crank fuel will squirt out. Fuel shutoff solenoid is working with 24v. First night of installation I had fuel, but since then nothing.
I was told to disconnect the fuel lines from injectors and crank until I saw fuel. I have had no fuel not even a drop.
So what am I doing wrong?
Should I keep all lines attached and only do one at a time?
do I remove it completely or just enough to leak?
Is the fact that they are all completely disconnected the reason nothing is happening?

I am also interested in the reasoning behind how to do this properly, I learn and remember better if I know not just what to do but why to do it and what happens if I do it wrong.

I am learning, so please explain things as if I was a 5yr old with no clue what he's doing. I'd rather you tell me some little thing I already know than not tell me something I don't.

Thank you for any assistance.

1988 1097 HMMWV 6.5l non turbo 4spd

 

[TOBASH]

Did you properly clock the timing circle from the IP and ensure it is all the way down on the timing gear?

Did you get dirt that is blocking the IP from fuel delivery?

 

[Loose Boots]

Did you properly clock the timing circle from the IP and ensure it is all the way down on the timing gear?

Did you get dirt that is blocking the IP from fuel delivery?

how would I do that?
Reinstallation there was only one way to do it which required me to turn the engine to install all 3 bolts. (which I did manage to screw up the first time by putting the pin in the bolt hole but wouldn't turn until I corrected the problem. So it is turning with the engine if that's what you mean. But if there was something else I was supposed to do I'm all ears.

where would this dirt be located at? (seriously asking, not being snarky) Its a brand new pump and I did clean the ends of the fuel lines before I attached them. and they are all in the right spot. Marked em before I took the old one off.

 

[Mogman]

If he is getting fuel out of the return port on the IP then the IP is getting fuel.
Is it possible you installed a 12V IP and the solenoid is now fried, do you hear a click from the IP when the run switch is put into run?
ALSO remember any time you switch the run switch to OFF you MUST wait at least 90 seconds before switching back to RUN or you can fry the glow plugs and or the PCB box.

 

[NDT]

Tell us about “new injection pump”. Was it freshly remanufactured? It could be defective if it’s been sitting around forever.

 

[Loose Boots]

If he is getting fuel out of the return port on the IP then the IP is getting fuel.
Is it possible you installed a 12V IP and the solenoid is now fried, do you hear a click from the IP when the run switch is put into run?
ALSO remember any time you switch the run switch to OFF you MUST wait at least 90 seconds before switching back to RUN or you can fry the glow plugs and or the PCB box.

that was my first thought but i pulled and tested it, even double checked ground. its 24v and works. even had a buddy turn to run so i could listen for the click.

never knew about the 90 sec.... youd think they would've trained us on that...probly explains why they were always breaking down..lol.

 

[Loose Boots]

Tell us about “new injection pump”. Was it freshly remanufactured? It could be defective if it’s been sitting around forever.

its brand spanking new from the stynadyne factory. went direct through a distributor.

 

[Mogman]

Only three things must happen for a good IP to inject fuel.
1, the pump shaft must be turning
2, the IP must be receiving fuel
3, the shutdown linkage must be in the run position.

Is it possible the original IP was seized?
And you say you are still getting fuel out the return fitting?
Have you made sure wire number 54A is connected to the front terminal on the IP?
I am sorry you are having trouble, you seem to have checked all the right boxes.

 

[Loose Boots]

Only three things must happen for a good IP to inject fuel.
1, the pump shaft must be turning
2, the IP must be receiving fuel
3, the shutdown linkage must be in the run position.

Is it possible the original IP was seized?
And you say you are still getting fuel out the return fitting?
Have you made sure wire number 54A is connected to the front terminal on the IP?
I am sorry you are having trouble, you seem to have checked all the right boxes.

previous ip was def. siezed, at least the fuel shutoff was, the solenoid broke trying to move it. it had sat for a while and had all kinds of crap in the fuel.

 

[Mogman]

previous ip was def. siezed, at least the fuel shutoff was, the solenoid broke trying to move it. it had sat for a while and had all kinds of crap in the fuel.

What I meant was the shaft seized???
If it was it is very likely the key in the lower IP drive gear has sheared and the IP is ether not turning or turning too slow because it is slipping as it tries to build pressure and of course it would be out of time.
This would be logical that it could make a little fuel at first as it would slip easier the more you tried to turn it
If so it would not be the end of the world but would require removing the stack and the cam/IP drive gear/chain cover

 

[Mogman]

One thing you could do is pull the plug (oil fill pipe) in front of the cam gear, align the timing marks on the harmonic balancer, mark the upper IP gear with chalk, then crank the engine for a little bit, align the timing marks again and see if the timing gear agrees of course the timing marks on the harmonic balancer turn twice for ever turn of the upper cam gear.

Maybe someone else has a dead sure way of confirming a sheared key.

 

[Mogman]

look at the upper drive gear as the engine is cranked it may be obvious

 

[Loose Boots]

look at the upper drive gear as the engine is cranked it may be obvious

ill check that later today, my batteries keep dying after two or three 10sec crank after charging all night.

they are 750cca but i dont know yet if they are just garbage batteries or if that's something else i'm gonna have to fix later.

 

[Mullaney]

ill check that later today, my batteries keep dying after two or three 10sec crank after charging all night.

they are 750cca but i dont know yet if they are just garbage batteries or if that's something else i'm gonna have to fix later.

.
I hate to say it, but your batteries (or maybe just one) sound like they are dead.

You could remove the batteries and take them to an Auto Zone or NAPA and have them load test the batteries. You should replace them in pairs. Otherwise one will be a drain on the other...

 

[Mogman]

You must have a good set of batteries to spin the engine fast enough to get the IP to work, that may be your entire problem, or not
Do you still have the original IP and is the shaft seized?????

 

[Loose Boots]

.
I hate to say it, but your batteries (or maybe just one) sound like they are dead.

You could remove the batteries and take them to an Auto Zone or NAPA and have them load test the batteries. You should replace them in pairs. Otherwise one will be a drain on the other...

Funny thing is, just did that last week, came home with brand new set. Getting them swapped again today so I'll have 2 new Friday but if these follow the pattern I'm gonna get refund and change brands.

 

[Loose Boots]

Hey guys, thank you for all the help, figured i'd drop an update.
the guy from the shop suggested something and I can't believe i didnt think to check THIS. but..
He said to check the solenoid WHILE CRANKING. Its so simple. IF the charge is dropping while I crank for whatever reason, then its opening the solenoid when i put to run and closing it when it when I start cranking which is when fuel starts flowing, so...
This seems like the simplest and most likely explanation at this point. Unfortunately I have to wait until tomorrow to get my batteries as they had to order new ones. Which falls perfectly in line with my kind of luck, lol.
but, as i'm trying to learn everything I can about how this vehicle actually works instead of just being a parts swapper, Can anybody think of a reason, or what might be causing it to get less power when cranking? (besides poo poo batteries) I've already cleaned the battery box connections.

Thank you guys again. your help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Mogman]

Hey guys, thank you for all the help, figured i'd drop an update.
the guy from the shop suggested something and I can't believe i didnt think to check THIS. but..
He said to check the solenoid WHILE CRANKING. Its so simple. IF the charge is dropping while I crank for whatever reason, then its opening the solenoid when i put to run and closing it when it when I start cranking which is when fuel starts flowing, so...
This seems like the simplest and most likely explanation at this point. Unfortunately I have to wait until tomorrow to get my batteries as they had to order new ones. Which falls perfectly in line with my kind of luck, lol.
but, as i'm trying to learn everything I can about how this vehicle actually works instead of just being a parts swapper, Can anybody think of a reason, or what might be causing it to get less power when cranking? (besides poo poo batteries) I've already cleaned the battery box connections.

Thank you guys again. your help is greatly appreciated.

That could be a possibility but it would be rare in this application unless you had the wrong wire attached to the IP.
You still have not said if the original IP has a seized shaft.

 

[Loose Boots]

That could be a possibility but it would be rare in this application unless you had the wrong wire attached to the IP.
You still have not said if the original IP has a seized shaft.

AS far as I can tell it did not have a seized shaft, it spun freely for removal and easily spins by hand.

 

[Mogman]

AS far as I can tell it did not have a seized shaft, it spun freely for removal and easily spins by hand.

Then there is not much chance the gear key is sheared.
I will be interested in how the tests go, with your bad batteries you may have just had too slow cranking speed or the voltage was dropping too low to hold the fuel solenoid in the run position.