303M HydraMatic rebuild

[rustystud]

It was raining like "a cow pissing on a flat rock" today so I decided to install the front and rear servos .
During this I realized I had forgotten to remove the check ball and spring in the modified front servo I'm going to use. I posted about this in post #121 . I showed what needed to be modified on the front servo to fit our 303M transmission. I also went back and corrected some information I posted last summer.
I also found out about the "A" and "B" MWO modifications. If I had just read my manuals instead of skim read them I would have found this out. Instead I just skim over stuff I think I already know, like "yeah yeah I know this blah blah blah" . Turns out I really need to "read" the manuals and supplementals I own !
The A and B MWO is converting the 302M transmission into a 303M unit.
When the first HydraMatics where installed in the M135's they thought they could get away with just using three clutch plates in the front drum assembly ! The "civilian cars" had five clutch plates at this time !!!!
What were they thinking !!!!
They also replaced the rear servo unit with one that dumped fluid faster giving a faster band apply.
Now back to my install of the servo's.
First off you need to install the rear "discharge tube" into the back of the case. You will need to make sure it is fully engaged. It will be a snug fit.
Second, partially install the front servo, leaving a gap between the servo and main case of about 1/4" . That will allow you to fit the rear servo in since it needs to go into the connecting tube between the two servos and also fit into the rear band socket.
Make sure the front servo tube is fitting securely into the front pump and the servo apply pin is fitting into the front band socket. Also the "discharge tube to the back of the case needs to be installed into the front servo at this time.
Thirdly, install the rear servo. Making sure it is fitting into the front servo connecting tube and the rear band socket. Install all the bolts and slowly turn them down until all assemblies are fully seated. Then torque them down, 28 to 33 ft Ibs .

 

[rustystud]

I'm going to spend tomorrow thinking of a way I can install some kind of return spring for the reduction piston. There just has to be a way this can be done. Then again maybe there isn't any other way. Well see.

 

[USMC 00-08]

Well Tom "Wolboldt" has not been seen since September 24, 2017 .
So, "USMC 00-08" if you can get his phone number that would be great.

Working on getting his phone number. Will report back.

I decided to install the front and rear servos .
During this I realized I had forgotten to remove the check ball and spring in the modified front servo I'm going to use. I posted about this in post #121 . I showed what needed to be modified on the front servo to fit our 303M transmission. I also went back and corrected some information I posted last summer.
I also found out about the "A" and "B" MWO modifications. If I had just read my manuals instead of skim read them I would have found this out. Instead I just skim over stuff I think I already know, like "yeah yeah I know this blah blah blah" . Turns out I really need to "read" the manuals and supplementals I own !
The A and B MWO is converting the 302M transmission into a 303M unit.
When the first HydraMatics where installed in the M135's they thought they could get away with just using three clutch plates in the front drum assembly ! The "civilian cars" had five clutch plates at this time !!!!
What were they thinking !!!!
They also replaced the rear servo unit with one that dumped fluid faster giving a faster band apply.

Ok. I had mentioned in post #104 that my transmission had the A and B MWO. So I have the 303M but would still need to modify the front servo like you have at the point it ever needs rebuilt?

 

[rustystud]

Working on getting his phone number. Will report back.



Ok. I had mentioned in post #104 that my transmission had the A and B MWO. So I have the 303M but would still need to modify the front servo like you have at the point it ever needs rebuilt?

You don't need to modify the front servo if you don't want too. The stock servo works just fine.
The modified servo I'm using will give me engine braking abilities and it has a greater surface area on the piston for more holding power.

 

[rustystud]

Spent the day cleaning up the "output shaft bearing retainer" and apply piston.
I also ran my left index finger through the wire wheel on my grinder !!!
I took off about 1-1/4" of skin. Lots of blood, no fun at all.
Need to pay more attention when cleaning parts on the wire wheel !

 

[m1010plowboy]

Spent the day cleaning up the "output shaft bearing retainer" and apply piston.
I also ran my left index finger through the wire wheel on my grinder !!!
I took off about 1-1/4" of skin. Lots of blood, no fun at all.
Need to pay more attention when cleaning parts on the wire wheel !

We could have sat on youtube all day and not get injured. Having ambition can be hazardous. One ambitious fella I worked with was using a wire wheel to paint prep our trailer when he let out a scream. If those wires aren't grabbing a finger and pulling it in, they are coming off at high speeds and lodging in various body parts. In this case, the crouched position with the legs spread open allowed that tiny wire to penetrate the coveralls and jab itself right into the swimmer holding sac. That's right, .....while we're waiting for your skin to grow back, we can picture that poor fella in Emergency.....announcing that he had a wire lodged in his purse.

For those chiming in that have not used a wire wheel on a grinder, even after decades of experience, they can still get you. Here are a few tips but my first tip is, Get Rich and pay someone to run your grinders. https://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/safety_haz/abrasive_wheels/safeuse2.html