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Civilian wheel cylinders

rustystud

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Woodinville, Washington
View attachment 738251View attachment 738252

Got the Raybestos WC4419 from Summit today. They are Chinese but have correct springs & pistons. Everything looks good but the copper washers, they were beat all to ****.
What I would do now is go to NAPA and buy some piston seals in bulk. Last time I bought some they where still made in the USA with quality material. The Chinese seals I've found fail after only a year or two. The cylinder and springs are good quality though. I bought several boxes of "bulk" seals from NAPA and the cheap Chinese wheel cylinders. Seems to be a good working combination so far.
 

Crazyguyla

Active member
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Altus, OK
Yes, there is a difference.

Look at this wheel cylinder spring:

View attachment 735144

Now look at this wheel cylinder spring:

View attachment 735145

Notice how the first (top) pictured spring has straight ends but the second (bottom) is tapered on the end?

The second (bottom) spring is what's correct and what you need and it's what the Napa 4419s have.

That tapering on the end of the spring pushes out on the wheel cylinder cups and keeps them sealed against the bore of the wheel cylinder. If you have the standard springs, the wheel cylinders won't leak but if the truck sits they'll let air in.
Just pulled the wheel cylinder off my deuce. The WC is at least 25 yrs old and has the straight spring. The cup end show a bit of corrosion from sitting, but slide nice from soaking in DOT3. Probably going to replace it since there are signs of pitting where the pistons sat. MFR: Wagner Lockheed

KIMG0659.jpg
 

Tracer

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What I would do now is go to NAPA and buy some piston seals in bulk. Last time I bought some they where still made in the USA with quality material. The Chinese seals I've found fail after only a year or two. The cylinder and springs are good quality though. I bought several boxes of "bulk" seals from NAPA and the cheap Chinese wheel cylinders. Seems to be a good working combination so far.
DSCF2144.jpg Rusty, I just picked up a couple of rebuild kits from NAPA this past summer, and they're marked assembled in USA. I'm going to assume that means Made in USA.:) Now I purchased a complete wheel cylinder from NAPA last summer and they are marked Made in China.:-(
 

tobyS

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IN
I have 6 that have the wrong pistons but otherwise are new. One new kit included with new style spring. Two have the straight spring but have a centering cup both ends. These would work with your pistons crazy guy. PM if interested...I went to 1 1/2". The cups are USA.
 

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cattlerepairman

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they're marked assembled in USA. I'm going to assume that means Made in USA.:) Now I purchased a complete wheel cylinder from NAPA last summer and they are marked Made in China.:-(
Unfortunately, "assembled in the USA" just means the parts have been put into a box in the USA. The parts are likely made in Asia.
 

18operator

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Seville, Ohio
I bought my wheel cylinders from a local shop and they have made in Korea on the box. I installed them in 2015 and I've had no problems.
The ones I removed, I got a NAPA kit UP45 and rebuilt them. They're on the shelf ready to go.
 

Tracer

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Sad but true. Mine all had "Made in USA" embossed in the rubber.
DSCF2146.jpg Rusty, I just unpacked my recently purchased NAPA 45 Wheel Cylinder Kit, and much to my surprise the seals have "Made in USA" embossed on the rubber. None of the other parts are marked.
 

Tracer

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I have a leaking right rear wheel cylinder/brake cylinder and no brake pedal at all. I need to move my truck. Can I remove brake line and cap it or something until my new cylinders arrive? I don’t know how I’m gonna pull it into my shop Without brakes
In the past when I needed to move my truck without brakes, I used the parking brake. If your parking brake operates correctly, it should do the trick for an in-shop move since it is a manual system. 2cents
 

msgjd

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upstate ny
If your hand brake doesn't work, then you have a few choices.. Lay down some stop blocks of some sort or chocks in the garage and shove it in with something else, .or fix it outside, or.. .....

or do what some of us others do when both types of brakes are out.. put it in low range and 1st gear , drive it in there and kill the engine in gear when you get close to where you need to be .. If you're not quick enough to kill it you still have a clutch to disengage and you had put down stop-blocks of some sort..

If you're inexperienced with doing something like that, practice it outside until you are.. But if you screw up and go thru the back wall, then as the saying goes, " that oops is on you". ;)
 
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