What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

[Coug]

To my knowledge, that is a bridge plate for letting others know your max possible gross weight, so a truck that's too heavy doesn't get told to cross an improvised bridge that may not be rated for it.

number would be in tons, so 05 would be 10k lbs, 06 would be 12k lbs. If you are towing a trailer that could put you at 07 or even 08 (I believe it's rounded up to the next rating) An early truck with no trailer might be 04 since it's rated max 7700 lbs.

My truck, being a 10,300 lb max weight plus 4200 lb trailer would be 14,500 lbs, so 08 would be appropriate, though 07 could be argued as well. I know the heaviest I've crossed the scales at was 13,500 with trailer in my M1123.

Found a partial list elsewhere on this site a bit ago that had the M997 and M998 listed as examples that they could be marked as 03 if they were empty, and 04 if loaded to capacity, so that matches what I remembered. Only the first generation trucks listed, nothing newer.
But to change my statement above, it would be for actual weight (if known), not just potential max weight

 

[Sjoconnor]

To my knowledge, that is a bridge plate for letting others know your max possible gross weight, so a truck that's too heavy doesn't get told to cross an improvised bridge that may not be rated for it.

number would be in tons, so 05 would be 10k lbs, 06 would be 12k lbs. If you are towing a trailer that could put you at 07 or even 08 (I believe it's rounded up to the next rating) An early truck with no trailer might be 04 since it's rated max 7700 lbs.

My truck, being a 10,300 lb max weight plus 4200 lb trailer would be 14,500 lbs, so 08 would be appropriate, though 07 could be argued as well. I know the heaviest I've crossed the scales at was 13,500 with trailer in my M1123.

mine says 69.....

 

[rcamacho]

Found and fixed a power steering return line leak at the tee near the radiator.
Fixed an injector line slow leak at the #5 injector. Hylomar HPF on the injector threads with care not to get any on the internal path side.

 

[FlameRed]

I finally got around to installing a separate the air vent line from the fuel pump so I don't end up with diesel in the transmission, hubs or everywhere else. Just used a few feet of 1/4" diesel fuel line to run it up high to next to the air filter canister, a couple spring clamps, a plug for the original line, and this handy little filter. Took like 5 minutes!

Cheap fix to an expensive PITA potential problem if the fuel pump goes bad.

 

[Lawdog734]

I changed the glow plugs and PCB this morning and installed a supplemental ground harness this afternoon. It's a little too chilly to be painting everything until spring, so I'm buttoning up the mechanical stuff now.

 

[FlameRed]

Busy week, since the Florida Inferno is abated.

Installed the CamoTek glow box this morning. Unfortunately, I'm expert at installing them but this should be the last one for me!

My wish is I could find a way or find someone that can get the two broken glow plugs out without having the remove the heads, or swap engines!

 

[Ls3rx7]

I finished my rear battery setup

 

[TenTires]

I changed the glow plugs and PCB this morning and installed a supplemental ground harness this afternoon. It's a little too chilly to be painting everything until spring, so I'm buttoning up the mechanical stuff now.

Where'd you get your ground harness?

 

[Lawdog734]

@TenTires

I've made them before, but this time I took the easy route and bought one from Blackdog Customs.

 

[Mainsail]

Most Flight Engineer stories begin, "There we were, flying along all fat dumb and happy, when [insert problem or near-death experience]..."

Well, there I was driving along the highway all fat dumb and happy when the wipers and gauges quit. I was creeping in traffic at the time and didn't notice right way that the transmission was also in limp-mode. This happened 100 yards past the last exit for many miles, so when traffic speed picked back up I was an obstacle.

There was also a clicking up under the dash, coinciding with a momentary pop in the gauges, telling me an automatic circuit breaker was attempting to re-power things, but was finding a short circuit somewhere and kicking it all back off. This cycled every few seconds continually while I was trying to find a place to pull off.

Shout-out and many thanks to RWH for talking me though where to look for possible shorts. Everything was visually good, I couldn't see anything unusual or any wire bundles touching anything they shouldn't be. I attempted to plot a non-highway route home in limp-mode but on Steven's advice decided that wasn't such a great plan with an unknown active short in the electrics. Called the tow truck...

Yesterday was solid rain so nothing got done. SpankyBear suggested it might be an issue with my security key switch (NOT a keyed switch - just a separate switch that interrupts the neutral/park safety line) so this morning that was my first troubleshooting - put the start circuit back to OEM. No change...

Troubleshooting 101 asks; what made this trip different or unique from any other trip? Well, to start it was a lot of 70MPH until the traffic jam when the short occurred, and the wipers had been on longer than they ever had since I got the truck. I've only ever used them for a few minutes here and there, but never for 20 minutes nonstop. So that was my second check - unplug the wiper switch and see if the auto-c/b would stop cycling.

Unplugged the wiper switch and the truck returned to normal. Fired up the truck and was relieved the start box hadn't soiled the sheets - the glow plugs worked as normal and the truck started. Wish I had thought of that before calling the tow!

I put the meter on both connectors inside the wiper switch plug to see if there was continuity between either wire and ground, and there was not. That should rule out the wires shorting at the base of the A-pillar (thanks Steven!) and narrow it down to the wiper switch or wiper motor.

So with the motor running I unplugged the wire between the top of the switch and the motor, and plugged the switch back in at the bottom - no change. Hated to risk it, but wanted to be sure, so attempted to plug the motor back in and the gauges died, and an aromatic curl of smoke came from the plug. Left it unplugged and restarted no problem.

Took it around the block and it's shifting normally again.

I'm going to say the motor is shorted internally and start looking for another. Even though the wiper switch was off, the blades were likely still trying to park themselves, so the motor was shorting and kicking the c/b off. If I had figured that out I could have pulled the plug to the switch and drove it home on the highway. Expensive lesson.

 

[frauhansen]

Thank you for the description. It will go in my book “remember when it happens to you”.

When I saw the photo, one of my first thoughts was... Rain -> short circuit of the three contacts under the windshield frame.

 

[Mainsail]

Thank you for the description. It will go in my book “remember when it happens to you”.

When I saw the photo, one of my first thoughts was... Rain -> short circuit of the three contacts under the windshield frame.

I checked for continuity between the two wires that connect to the wiper switch and ground, and there was no direct short, so I hope that isn't the issue.

It seems odd to me that a motor would have a dead short like that, so I'm not entirely convinced it is the motor. My experience is that motors overheat, and might fail, but not suddenly have a dead short to ground like that. So either I'm wrong about the wiper motor and it isn't the problem, or I've learned something new that motors can suddenly short out.

 

[Gcelevator]

Replaced the fuel filter and the truck flies now. Was losing a little power, didn't realized i hadn't replaced it for 23k miles. Runs like a new truck.

 

[Mainsail]

Well, to wrap up the wiper problem, here's the epilogue.

As you recall, I was driving along and lost the gauges, wipers, and the transmission went into limp mode. An automatic circuit breaker was cycling under the dash - trying to repower everything but finding a dead short to ground it would immediately trip again.

I troubleshot it to the wiper motor shorting internally. A new one is very expensive. I was gifted a whole wiper motor assembly that worked, and slaved it in to check my troubleshooting. The wiper motor spun the shaft without causing the short circuit. Although free, the mounting stud was wrung off:



This is what it's supposed to look like:



I attempted to make one from the two I had - bad motor good stud & good motor bad stud, but that wasn't going to happen.

The stud is a 1/4-20 course so I went to home depot and picked up a tap in that size. My intention was to drill the shaft as deep as I dared to, thread it, and epoxy a bolt of that size in the hole, then just cut the head off to the right length.

I should have gone with a smaller size bolt, as the shaft's flats, that engage the wiper linkage, don't leave much room for error. My benchtop drill press was all I had to work with, and getting the hole perfectly centered and perfectly straight was mostly successful. Mostly...

I actually broke thru on one side of the flat a little, but I don't think that stud carries much load, it just keeps the linkage from wandering away from the motor shaft.

Here's the result:



Mostly straight, and epoxied into the hole. Once the epoxy cured I used a hammer to coax it into straightness so it was square to the shaft axis as best I could get it, then cut the head off.



Installing it in the truck was fun, in the dark, but I got it installed and I thought I had indexed it correctly but...



The sweep was perfect, clearing the windshield like they're supposed to, but they were parking on the wrong side. I have just enough OCD that while it worked great, it wasn't right.

Back out this afternoon and pulled the motor back off, manually dragged the wipers over to the proper park position on the right side of the glass, and reinstalled the motor.

Everything is back to normal. I'm hoping it all stays together long enough for me to find a good used one.

 

[Ls3rx7]

Suede wrapped my hard doors

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Suede wrapped my hard doors

Can’t wait to see the diamond tuck interior.

 

[Ls3rx7]

Can’t wait to see the diamond tuck interior.

no diamond here

Can’t wait to see the diamond tuck interior.

Not my style, trying to keep with the civilian h1 theme.

Started making the console

 

[FlameRed]

Since the Florida Inferno is abated, in the 50's, I completed the yearly oil/filter change, grease job, and checked all the fluids. I noted I had a leak from the fan clutch QD fitting. Tightened it about another turn and will have to see if that gets-r-done. Found the right front hub air vent was pulled off, so straighten that away. Even broke out the old power washer and gave her a bath!

 

[HoveringHMMWV]

Since the Florida Inferno is abated, in the 50's, I completed the yearly oil/filter change, grease job, and checked all the fluids. I noted I had a leak from the fan clutch QD fitting. Tightened it about another turn and will have to see if that gets-r-done. Found the right front hub air vent was pulled off, so straighten that away. Even broke out the old power washer and gave her a bath!

If get-r-done doesn’t work for the quick disconnect, this is the replacement. Price has increased about 30+% since I purchased a couple years ago.

 

[frauhansen]

Not my style, trying to keep with the civilian h1 theme.

Started making the console

You don't really want to make the substructure out of wood now, do you?