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M1009 frame off restore and modification
- Thread starter bl71236
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bl71236
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While I'm waiting for the air conditioner kit to be shipped, I decided to get the engine and tranny installed. Of course it didn't go as planned I managed to damage the passenger side mount. Grrrrr The engine was rebuilt by a local shop in Dallas. Bored .030 over and painted Detroit Diesel Ceramic Green. The exhaust manifolds , intake, coolant tubes were ceramic coated with "titanium" color ceramic from a shop in OKC. Transmission was overhauled and a new converter installed.
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CARC686
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First time I've ever actually seen one in Detroit Diesel green. That's gorgeous.
bl71236
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Been working on the dash board last couple of days. Getting the speaker bezels made and fitting the air conditioner front panel. was able to get a preliminary dry fit of the dash and instrument panel. Once i get the dash done I'm going to use an UV spray designed for outdoor fabrics on the dash.
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bl71236
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Worked on the transmission cable lower bracket. had to relocate the forward attach hole and add a piece for the aft attach point. Also got the Dakota Digital position sensor mounted .
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bl71236
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I got the cargo side panels covered and fitted. This past week. Also the switch panels came back from the engraver.
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bl71236
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Yesterday The Vintage Air Gen 5 surefit kit showed up so I was able to get started on evaporator and interior duct mod install.
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bl71236
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This Gen 5 From Vintage Air is very cool. All digital controls, no cables or silly vacuum controls. The 1009 had the "military" version air conditioner installed when I got this truck . However it did not really cool the vehicle down. This unit is better than factory air I was told. Got to have cold air here in Texas. Once I finish the dash duct mods I'm going to get the tub mounted back on the frame. I have the mounts and a new bolt kit from ORD.
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bl71236
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Here is a look at the switch panels.
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- 1,962
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- Paris KY
Nice work. I'm in the final stages of installing Vintage Air in my M1028 rebuild. Just a heads-up - The kit comes with a length of 2" flexible hose for the defroster vent ports and 2-1/2" flexible hose for the cab vents ports. The VA instructions indicate to cut the 2-1/2" hose to certain lengths for each of the four (4) cab vent ports, with the hose stretched-out when measuring. However the length of 2-1/2" hose that came with my kit was insufficient for all four lengths of hose. I emailed VA customer support about this and they shipped me another full length of hose at no charge, and they didn't question my request so I believe they are aware of the deficiency. Also, you may find that the radiator hose which runs from the pressure (cool) side of the radiator to the lower port at the firewall needs to be 3/4" diameter at the radiator but 5/8" diameter at the firewall. VA offers such a transition hose through Summit and other outlets, VA part #99010,
Something else I did when installing the flexible duct was to install a small sheet metal screw over the last internal wire of the hose after it was stretched over the air duct port. The hose must be squeezed to a tight oval shape to fit over the duct ports and getting all four installed on the supply plenum was a bear. A sheet metal screw run into the plastic duct port over the internal hose wire will prevent a hose from popping off a duct port after dash reinstallation. I recommend taking out the defrost ports and installing the hose in your lap instead of trying to install the hose with the defrost ports in place.
Hope this help.
Something else I did when installing the flexible duct was to install a small sheet metal screw over the last internal wire of the hose after it was stretched over the air duct port. The hose must be squeezed to a tight oval shape to fit over the duct ports and getting all four installed on the supply plenum was a bear. A sheet metal screw run into the plastic duct port over the internal hose wire will prevent a hose from popping off a duct port after dash reinstallation. I recommend taking out the defrost ports and installing the hose in your lap instead of trying to install the hose with the defrost ports in place.
Hope this help.
bl71236
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Thanks,I also found that the defrost hose needed to be installed prior to installing the vents. Not a big deal. However step one was to install the defrost vents.
I noticed that the heater plumbing were the same size. Thanks for tips and the x-over p/n.
bl71236
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Not needing the ram air doors I went ahead and modified them.
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bl71236
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Been getting everything ready to mount the body back on the frame. My helper will be here next month,so in the mean time i got to work tidying up the wiring and overhauling the alternators.
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bl71236
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Got the body on the frame and got the fuel tank plumbing installed, and got the rear bumper brackets aligned. bumper is just a dry fit as it'll come off for paint. I was missing the pintle hitch and never could source the 3/8"spacer so I made a 1/4"spacer for the mount and a 1/4"spacer/washer to get the proper alignment for the castle nut.
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- 1,962
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- 113
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- Paris KY
Just a heads up - if you are planning on reinstalling the rear battery tray, you will need to turn the top Vintage Air refrigerant line and top heater hose on a 90-degree to prevent the lines from contacting the tray. Those lines exit the VA firewall plate exactly behind the edge of the tray, although the photo below is somewhat deceiving. VA offers a 90-degree fitting for the #10 top refrigerant line, Part #366102. I sourced the 90-degree sweeps from Amazon and ran both lines around the rear battery tray. I used sweeps instead of sharp 90-degree fittings because sweeps do not impede flow as much as fittings.
bl71236
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Copy, I plan on using the civilian trays, and have one on each side. Nice work around on your end.
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If you use a civilian tray on the driver's side, you will also need to use a civilian coolant recovery container & mount. Just saying...........
bl71236
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Now that the body is back on the frame I started routing the wiring harnesses and transmission cable. Also got to work on the engine harness for the indication and glow plug system.
First pictures are the rear windshield washer and the washer fluid supply hose.
Engine to body grounding,and glow plug temp sensor.
Next 2 pictures are routing and cannon plug connection for engine indication systems.
Transmission cable routing.
Then some general frame rail routing.
Last is how goofy she looks. haha
First pictures are the rear windshield washer and the washer fluid supply hose.
Engine to body grounding,and glow plug temp sensor.
Next 2 pictures are routing and cannon plug connection for engine indication systems.
Transmission cable routing.
Then some general frame rail routing.
Last is how goofy she looks. haha
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bl71236
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Thanks for the heads up.
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Very nice engineering. Most folks have no idea what's involved once you leave the OEM design. BTW, if you need any OEM parts, let me know. I have a ton, all with 15,178 original miles. I plan on listing everything in the Parts For Sale forum after I get finished with my M1028.