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convert M1010 electical to 12V details

doghead

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When I get a CUCV, I'm thinking about converting the electrical system to 220 AC. 220 AC is very common(every house has it).
 

doghead

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Doghead I'd go with 480 vac 3 phase much cheaper to run.
Cheaper yes, but then I'd be back to a 1 off deal, with the harness all hacked up. But, I'll keep an open mind for now,were you thinking, Delta or Wye ....

Now you got me thinkin', why not go 6 phase for twice the economy?

I wonders if I could convert a Chrysler BB, from gas to electric, then I'd have 440AC!


It uses the same diesel fuel gauge, idiot lights, headlight switch, wiper switch, wiper motor, ignition switch, neutral safety switch, and much more... then they add on extra wiring to accommodate the second alt. idiot light and a few other things under the hood. Looking at the wiring from an engineering standpoint it is 90% identical. Even 90% of the electrical connectors are the same. I would bet that a large portion of the wiring colors are even identical.
Don't forget they all use the same key too!
 
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kennyw

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Have you even looked at how simple the 12V conversion is?

http://www.roscommonequipmentcenter.com/news_notes/nn10.pdf

It is so simple because the truck runs on 12V with the exception of the starter, military radio, jumper slave and the glow plugs (up to the resistor). GM could have redesigned the entire electrical system for 24V and made things simple, but they didn't.

Does your M1009 use a 24V headlight switch unique from the 12V version in a Civi truck? Does it use a different dimmer switch? No, it doesn't even use a different heater fan or taillight bulbs.

Seriously, what is so different between the two when you compare them side by side? Just because there are extra wires for the extra systems, doesn't make it completely different. My original point was 90% of the wiring is already the same. Converting to 12V does NOT make it impossible to get help or work on like you stated.

Do you also tell people not to upgrade the weak 10 bolt rear because a 14FF would make an M1009 too hard to troubleshoot brake or driveline problems?
 

mangus580

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The problem is, not everyone uses the good conversion instructions.... and not everyone does it exact to the instructions.

I can tell you how to troubleshoot almost everything in a CUCV off the top of my head...

If you mess with it, and change it... I cant help. Sorry, but thats the way it is. What more do you want me to say?
 

CCATLETT1984

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While i have to look at the tm a bit more than mikey when helping you guys with wiring issues. If you change it then i cant help either.

So, IF you are going to convert to 12v stuff, be prepared to troubleshoot YOURSELF. We cant tell you to "check wire A for x voltage" if you change from stock.

Kennyw, since you are so "inclined" on converting to 12volt. I'm now going to direct EVERY 12v electrical question someone has to YOU..... You wanna encourage it (and make Mike's and My day's a pain) then YOU are going to support these guys issues.
 

swyne

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Hi guys, just an update. Truck has been sitting out in the yard since Saturday.
This Sat I will take a voltage reading of both batteries and then attempt to start the truck on the first cycling of the glow plugs. (2 times is probably more like it) Now keep in mind it hasn't been over 25 degrees all week. At night jumping down to around 15. I know its not really really cold but Its just testing the waters as this is my first CUCV. M:-Dabe this weekend I can install my block heater. 1000w. Are they difficult? (frost plug style) Is there an easy way to remove the frost plug?
 

devilman96

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Have you even looked at how simple the 12V conversion is?

http://www.roscommonequipmentcenter.com/news_notes/nn10.pdf

It is so simple because the truck runs on 12V with the exception of the starter, military radio, jumper slave and the glow plugs (up to the resistor). GM could have redesigned the entire electrical system for 24V and made things simple, but they didn't.

Does your M1009 use a 24V headlight switch unique from the 12V version in a Civi truck? Does it use a different dimmer switch? No, it doesn't even use a different heater fan or taillight bulbs.

Seriously, what is so different between the two when you compare them side by side? Just because there are extra wires for the extra systems, doesn't make it completely different. My original point was 90% of the wiring is already the same. Converting to 12V does NOT make it impossible to get help or work on like you stated.

Do you also tell people not to upgrade the weak 10 bolt rear because a 14FF would make an M1009 too hard to troubleshoot brake or driveline problems?
Ok I'm gonna say it... I cant stand it when people cant get through their thick heads that these were designed with an intended purpose as a military vehicle. You guys keep tossing this idea out there because for some odd reason 24V scares you or something... Then people read it... suddenly think "oh thats a great idea"... and then they come back posting about how their stuff doesn't work... trying to get help... and no one here can help them as we don't know what they have... Its a bad idea... Some of us have been around long enough to have seen this happen OVER AND OVER AND OVER again so we highly recomend you DONT!

Not everyone here understands electrical... Not everyone here should be under the hood of their trucks (with even a wrench, let alone wire cutters). Encouraging hacking a electrical system to death for some half arsed work around is a bad idea!!! If ya want a 12V truck because GM made the CUCV out to be that big of a techinal challenge... go buy a civy K5 and have fun.

Hi guys, just an update. Truck has been sitting out in the yard since Saturday.
This Sat I will take a voltage reading of both batteries and then attempt to start the truck on the first cycling of the glow plugs. (2 times is probably more like it) Now keep in mind it hasn't been over 25 degrees all week. At night jumping down to around 15. I know its not really really cold but Its just testing the waters as this is my first CUCV. M:-Dabe this weekend I can install my block heater. 1000w. Are they difficult? (frost plug style) Is there an easy way to remove the frost plug?
Drill the plug, run about a 2" screw into it, smack one side with a punch until you get a hole in it or spin it sideways and can pry it out... The screw is in case you mess up to stop the plug from accidentally falling into the block!

Man I'm glad I live in FL!!!!

Also, on the fuseable link.. Dont confuse that with installing a fuse block in its place, it will not handle the load as intended. Stick with the link, as Cat said, you can get them at Napa...
 

kennyw

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If ya want a 12V truck because GM made the CUCV out to be that big of a techinal challenge... go buy a civy K5 and have fun.
You do realize your CUCV runs on 12V for everything except a 24V starter... of course not, it's all 24V to you. We have been helping guys trouble shoot electrical problems on CK5 for years without any trouble. If you can't figure it out how to trouble shoot a 12V system send them over there instead, we will be happy to help.

If someone doesn't know how to handle wiring, then going at a wiring harness with a set of wire cutters and no clue is bad no matter what voltage your starter is.

#1 issue I've seen after a 12V conversion is glow plugs not heating up due to the resistor still being in the system. Not a hard one to figure out... The 24V system isn't any harder to work with than a 12V system either, it is harder to buy a 24V starter off of a shelf though. It is also twice the price. Same goes for the isolated ground alternators. I recently walked into a parts store to have them tested and they had no clue how to look them up. Luckily using the settings for the civi alternator was successful for testing at least with me standing there showing where to hook up the wires.
 
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kennyw

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If you mess with it, and change it... I cant help. Sorry, but thats the way it is. What more do you want me to say?
That's at least accurate. If you can't help them, there isn't much more that you can do, but there are others out there that still can. Since most of the truck remains unchanged it is just a matter of troubleshooting what they did.
 

CCATLETT1984

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That's at least accurate. If you can't help them, there isn't much more that you can do, but there are others out there that still can. Since most of the truck remains unchanged it is just a matter of troubleshooting what they did.
Thank you, you just admitted to the problem that we are trying to avoid all together. Instead of spend hours trying to figure out what step they screwed up on, its soo much simpler to instruct them how to fix it the proper way and maintain the original system.
 

tourdog

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well boys i have been following this tread alittle to do a 12 volt convertion go buy 2 100 amp 12 volt alt any good part store well have got mine at napa put in trow restor on fire wall in trash hooked two wires together put 12 volt gear reduction starter in move on very simple have not had any prombles with since no need for all this other stuff i have read just go get new alts hook one two each batt then you know they are chargeing and which is which put new amp gage in move on move on !!!
 

kennyw

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Thank you, you just admitted to the problem that we are trying to avoid all together. Instead of spend hours trying to figure out what step they screwed up on, its soo much simpler to instruct them how to fix it the proper way and maintain the original system.
:roll: And how many people come in here with problems with the original system? No one would ever screw that up either? People have problems and come here (and other sites) for help all the time.

Troubleshooting a 12V system is no more difficult than a 12/24V system.

Troubleshooting a modified vehicle is NO MORE DIFFICULT than the unmodified truck.

People buy these trucks with plans to change them, but when 9 out of 10 people are competent enough to do the job without problems it you want to tell those people they are and idiot for changing things?

Do you tell people not to change their own oil or you can't help them troubleshoot any problems ;) It makes just about as much sense. If your not competent enough to help people you don't have to answer their questions.
 

kennyw

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well boys i have been following this tread alittle to do a 12 volt convertion go buy 2 100 amp 12 volt alt any good part store well have got mine at napa put in trow restor on fire wall in trash hooked two wires together put 12 volt gear reduction starter in move on very simple have not had any prombles with since no need for all this other stuff i have read just go get new alts hook one two each batt then you know they are chargeing and which is which put new amp gage in move on move on !!!
Please use some punctuation... that is impossible to understand completely. If you want to convert your truck to 12V only there are a couple options. Read through these instructions:

http://www.roscommonequipmentcenter.com/news_notes/nn10.pdf

If you feel comfortable following those instructions, it isn't a difficult task. If your not comfortable with electrical wiring, it is best to get some help.
 

tourdog

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madison me
well i did read that artical great artical but it is still easyier to get new alts ,starter do away with restor on fire wall move on . hook alts to the rights batts new gauge dont look back . like i did mine two new alts direct bolt in run couple new wires for alts done no issuses since . very easy
 

swyne

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Ok my truck sat for a week. Its been pretty cold. The average temp for the week was 23.7 degrees and an average wind of 5-10 mph. I checked voltage first. Front bat was 12.45V and the rear was 12.45V Both equal. Glow plugs stayed on for 18 seconds. Then turned key and the truck turned over approx 10 times and she was running. Now I've got a heater block to install. I bought a 1000 watt "Zerostart"
part number 3100059. :-D
 

Michael

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well boys i have been following this tread alittle to do a 12 volt convertion go buy 2 100 amp 12 volt alt any good part store well have got mine at napa put in trow restor on fire wall in trash hooked two wires together put 12 volt gear reduction starter in move on very simple have not had any prombles with since no need for all this other stuff i have read just go get new alts hook one two each batt then you know they are chargeing and which is which put new amp gage in move on move on !!!

Care to share a part number for a direct bolt in replacement 12v alternator? I wonder if you could isolate the ground and wire it up like the other CUCVs?
 
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