Tow Dolly a M1008

[crownjewel4]

I am picking up an M1008 next week at Fort Meade. I wondered if it was possible to use a tow dolly to bring the truck back to PA. I have access to a tow dolly, and wondered if it would accept a M1008. I have rented the car trailer in the past, and picked up a few M1009's and it worked great. I know the M1009 is to long for the trailer, and thought about using the tow dolly if it would fit.
Otherwise, does anyone NE people know where to rent a trailer able to accept the M1008.

Also,
How would a tow-bar system work, and does anyone have one for sale. I leave for Fort Meade on 1/28, so time is short.
GL states does not run, but everything seems complete on this lot. Last Blazer I picked up said does not run, and started with my slave cable no problem.
Did anyone see this vehicle on site?

Thanks in advance for your help,
The site is a great thing!

 

[neilhendrix]

This is a good question. I wonder about the drive shafts being pulled or will the T.C. being in neutral do the job ?

 

[Crash_AF]

As far as I know, the 1008 will not fit between the tires of a standard dolly. From the pics, it looks like the truck is really complete and probably just has dead batteries.

Also, I would not towbar or dolly tow a 1008 with a 1009 for any real distance due to the weight difference between the two.

Later,
Joe

 

[jimm1009]

I recommend the tow bar if the wheel bearings & tires are o.k.
Remember, the M1008 is nothing more than a mid 1980's 3/4 ton chevy pickup with standard cab, heavier springs, extra low gearing, and a diesel engine.
The wheel base is the same as a civy truck.
If you elect to tow bar it home, you need to get the rear driveshaft disconnected from the rear axle before towing it more than 50 miles.
I have towed my M1009 many thousands of miles at 65 & 70 MPH with a 3/4 ton truck. I don't ever completely remove the driveshaft because you will loose fluid out of the transfer case while introducing road dirt and moisture in.
Wrap some tape around the bearing caps on the universal joint and tie it up against the frame.
I had a tow bar made to fit my truck with one inch holes in order to "almost" duplicate the military tow bar installation.
It's too dark & foggy tonight but I can take pictures in the morning of the civy tow bar that I had made and the genuine military tow bar too as attached to the M1009.
Now the frame width may not be the same so the spread between the frame extensions for the tiedown shackles may be different but you may be able to get a better idea.
I'll post the pictures as soon as it get's light here in Louisiana in the AM.
If you have an e-mail address that is not dial-up I could send more pics there or I can post a few here on this thread too.
Jim jimm1009@yahoo.com

 

[jimm1009]

towing the M1009

I would not recommend using the M1009 due to the weight difference too as well as the pintle on the M1009 only being reated at 1500 to 2000 lbs.
Off road or for a few miles on country roads I would do it but not on the interstates. The hitch is not bolted to the frame so you do not have much strength there.
Even a civy Blazer with a frame hitch is only rated at 3500 lbs.
My tow bar mentioned above fits the M1009 but has a 2 inch coupler on it rather than a lunet ring fo rthe pintle hitch.
I had it made about 10 years ago for $100.
Jim

 

[BobM]

I towed my 1008 from Ft Mead to home, 644 miles on a towbar. See this thread
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?t=25643
There are links to the towbar ideas there also. It also talks about not being able to rent a trailer big enough, nor a tow dolly big enough for the 1008. You also should be prepared for the distinct possibility that you will have a case of the dreaded GL driveshaft modification! Many of these trucks have been manhandled by GL forklifts and have the driveshafts bent. Definitely unbolt the rear driveshaft and tie it off to the frame.
Oh, and just remember that it takes longer to stop with that 1008 behind you!

 

[tsmall07]

A CUCV will not fit on a tow dolly. A friend tried this once and he ended up driving the truck home with a jump. It ways too much for most dollies anyway.

 

[crownjewel4]

I towed my 1008 from Ft Mead to home, 644 miles on a towbar. See this thread
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?t=25643
There are links to the towbar ideas there also. It also talks about not being able to rent a trailer big enough, nor a tow dolly big enough for the 1008. You also should be prepared for the distinct possibility that you will have a case of the dreaded GL driveshaft modification! Many of these trucks have been manhandled by GL forklifts and have the driveshafts bent. Definitely unbolt the rear driveshaft and tie it off to the frame.
Oh, and just remember that it takes longer to stop with that 1008 behind you!

The above link works, and takes you to a great thread from your trip, but I can't get the link to work where you explain all the details of building the AZ tow bar to fit.
I tried to cut & paste also, no luck. Looks exactly like what I need, just would like to see the process, and parts used.
Ideas?

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Remember, the M1008 is nothing more than a mid 1980's 3/4 ton chevy pickup with standard cab, heavier springs, extra low gearing, and a diesel engine.
The wheel base is the same as a civy truck.

1 ton. Not 3/4 ton.

If you elect to tow bar it home, you need to get the rear driveshaft disconnected from the rear axle before towing it more than 50 miles.
I have towed my M1009 many thousands of miles at 65 & 70 MPH with a 3/4 ton truck. I don't ever completely remove the driveshaft because you will loose fluid out of the transfer case while introducing road dirt and moisture in.
Wrap some tape around the bearing caps on the universal joint and tie it up against the frame.
I had a tow bar made to fit my truck with one inch holes in order to "almost" duplicate the military tow bar installation.
It's too dark & foggy tonight but I can take pictures in the morning of the civy tow bar that I had made and the genuine military tow bar too as attached to the M1009.
Now the frame width may not be the same so the spread between the frame extensions for the tiedown shackles may be different but you may be able to get a better idea.
I'll post the pictures as soon as it get's light here in Louisiana in the AM.
If you have an e-mail address that is not dial-up I could send more pics there or I can post a few here on this thread too.
Jim jimm1009@yahoo.com

I would not recommend using the M1009 due to the weight difference too as well as the pintle on the M1009 only being reated at 1500 to 2000 lbs.
Off road or for a few miles on country roads I would do it but not on the interstates. The hitch is not bolted to the frame so you do not have much strength there.
Even a civy Blazer with a frame hitch is only rated at 3500 lbs.
My tow bar mentioned above fits the M1009 but has a 2 inch coupler on it rather than a lunet ring fo rthe pintle hitch.
I had it made about 10 years ago for $100.
Jim

He's got some excellent advice there. Either find a proper tow bar for it or have one made, don't try to use one of the little ones meant for cars and small SUV's that weigh less than a M1009 let alone a M1008. Also, go find a friend with a 3/4 or 1 ton truck and use that to tow it.
There was a guy on here a year or so ago who got a nice cherry M1028 to rebuild and then cheesewhized the recovery effort. Single axle trailer barely larger than the M1028 (looked like a big landscaping trailer) and a 90's Ford F150 single cab pickup. Yep...he got a few states from GL and the trailer flipped on him in traffic. He was shocked it happened...no one here was exactly surprised it did. A proper pickup and trailer would have resulted in him getting his 1028 home safe and sound instead of bent and mangled.

 

[jimm1009]

Well I'm back to inject a little more confusion.
I am attempting to post 8 pics if it works.
#1 is only to show the preference of 2 1/2 ton shackles over the original straight shackles. Kind of sexy...LOL.
Anyway, #2, 3, & 4 are the genuine medium military tow bar with the combination 3/4 & 1 inch pin "feet". How do you like the backdrop? Oops, I digress.
Pictures #5, 6, 7, & 8 are the civy made bar.
I realize that this is not much info up front but it gives you an idea of what I did at the time.
It was "field expedient" and safe plus it was made by a certified welder and not someone in their backyard.
The drawback is that it is heavy and non-adjustable but I had no visions of towing anything else and needed lower cost & extremely fast resolution to getting both trucks on the road together with only one driver.
I also tied into the electrical harness under the hood with a trailer plug so that I could frequently plug the towing truck into my rear harness which allowed me to have brake and tail lights on the rear only powered just as trailer lights would be powered.
I can give more details on this if anyone wants to PM me but this is really not needed for the one-time tow per truck.
If this does not work I'll split the pics up into tow sends.
Jim

 

[airmech]

I second the votes to not use a tow-bar/dolly. I just got back from ft. Meade on Wed. and hired a roll-back for the trip(@300 miles round trip for @$400). Try a local towing company, by the time you rent something(very doubtful once they see the weight of the truck), pay for fuel and tolls it will be close to the same as hiring the roll-back. Unfortunately I'm sure you have the driveshaft mod. Every truck I looked at had been damaged and a good bit of rust. I picked up a 1028 that looked near perfect, but has rust underneath and the driveshaft. Good luck with the trip.

 

[BobM]

The above link works, and takes you to a great thread from your trip, but I can't get the link to work where you explain all the details of building the AZ tow bar to fit.
I tried to cut & paste also, no luck. Looks exactly like what I need, just would like to see the process, and parts used.
Ideas?

Sorry that link didn't work. Let's try this one.
http://old.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=25729&highlight=

Also, if you read my post of how I towed my 1008 644 miles thru the mountains from Ft. Mead, Md to west central Indiana, then you know that it can be done and safely. ANYTHING you do CAN kill you. But if you use some pre planning and common sense, towbarring a 1008 can be safely done.
I carefully read the posts by tlm47201 and used his info to construct my towbar. tlm has towed successfully several vehicles using his towbar. So it can be done. And done safely. That being said, this is only my opinion and opinions are like a**holes, everyone needs at least one!
I hope this link helps you. The Reese towbar I bought from AZ was a little different from the one that tlm used and I modified the design accordingly. I can take and send any pics that you wish, just let me know.

 

[crownjewel4]

Sorry that link didn't work. Let's try this one.
http://old.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=25729&highlight=

Also, if you read my post of how I towed my 1008 644 miles thru the mountains from Ft. Mead, Md to west central Indiana, then you know that it can be done and safely. ANYTHING you do CAN kill you. But if you use some pre planning and common sense, towbarring a 1008 can be safely done.
I carefully read the posts by tlm47201 and used his info to construct my towbar. tlm has towed successfully several vehicles using his towbar. So it can be done. And done safely. That being said, this is only my opinion and opinions are like a**holes, everyone needs at least one!
I hope this link helps you. The Reese towbar I bought from AZ was a little different from the one that tlm used and I modified the design accordingly. I can take and send any pics that you wish, just let me know.

Thanks Bob,
I purchased the AZ tow bar, I hope to put together today. My pickup is this Wednesday, if I complete everything by then, will use. Otherwise, I may go the trailer route, not sure.
Very insightful information,
Thanks,

 

[crownjewel4]

Sorry that link didn't work. Let's try this one.
http://old.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=25729&highlight=

Also, if you read my post of how I towed my 1008 644 miles thru the mountains from Ft. Mead, Md to west central Indiana, then you know that it can be done and safely. ANYTHING you do CAN kill you. But if you use some pre planning and common sense, towbarring a 1008 can be safely done.
I carefully read the posts by tlm47201 and used his info to construct my towbar. tlm has towed successfully several vehicles using his towbar. So it can be done. And done safely. That being said, this is only my opinion and opinions are like a**holes, everyone needs at least one!
I hope this link helps you. The Reese towbar I bought from AZ was a little different from the one that tlm used and I modified the design accordingly. I can take and send any pics that you wish, just let me know.

Bob,
Could you send me pictures of exactly how you modified the two 2"x6" recievers from Tractor Supply. I assume you cut to length, then marked and drilled the holes. Any other details on the lifting lug set up would be great, I want to finish the bar today.
Thanks again,

 

[BobM]

Bob,
Could you send me pictures of exactly how you modified the two 2"x6" recievers from Tractor Supply. I assume you cut to length, then marked and drilled the holes. Any other details on the lifting lug set up would be great, I want to finish the bar today.
Thanks again,

I left the 2" x 6" bars at the original length. If you look at the tubes on tlm's setup, you see that he cut just one side of the tubes. But the loops on the AZ towbar are bigger than the one tlm used. So I cut both the top and bottom of the tube to allow free up and down movement of the bar. The small holes are 1/2" dia and are 3/4" from the end. The large holes are 1" dia and 1 &1/2" from that end. I cut the top and bottom of the tube back approximately 1" to allow the free movement up and down.
tlm 47201 also mentions taking a round file with you just in case the 1" holes do not line up exactly. One of my 1" holes was pretty tight, but I took along a couple of 1" grade 8 bolts just in case and I was able to screw one of these thru the holes pretty easily. In 644 miles up and down the mountains and all, we had absolutey no problems with this bar at all.
If we weren't so far away, i would have loaned you this bar. But here are a couple of closeups of the adapters to help. Good luck and remember to tale LOTS of pics!

 

[BobM]

How's the towbar coming?

 

[Mtrdrms]

I used the Uhaul Autotransport trailer to bring my truck (100 home from NJ to CT about 230 miles or so and it worked fine. Cost me 54 bucks for the day. Just make sure your tow vehicle is up to the task!

 

[BobM]

I used the Uhaul Autotransport trailer to bring my truck (100 home from NJ to CT about 230 miles or so and it worked fine. Cost me 54 bucks for the day. Just make sure your tow vehicle is up to the task!

Did you tell them what you were hauling? All the U-haul dealers here and other rental companies would not allow me to use their trailers to haul a 5/4 ton truck,
And before you say,"Why tell them?", consider what your liabilty would be if you had problems. In my advanced age I am finally to the point that I own more than I owe. And I'd like to keep it that way!

 

[Mtrdrms]

You are right about the liability. It was not an ideal situation. I would not recommend using the uhaul trailer to haul a fullsize vehicle and I may have told them that I was towing something else... However I can tell you from experience that it does fit, it does work, and will balance the trailer nicely to give a proper ride if the tow vehicle is worthy.

 

[BobM]

OK, How did your recovery go? Enquiring minds want to know!