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M35A2 - FLIPPING REAR HUBS TO SINGLE OUT A DEUCE.

saddamsnightmare

Well-known member
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Location
Abilene, Texas
:?: :p January 25th, 2008.

Gentlemen: Regarding Cold Weather Starts on "Saddam's Nightmare" The Darned Deuce is starting again when above 25*F and running well, so I still have to check the batteries anyway!

The question for today is:
MY having used search and having not found a good article on flipping the rear hubs on an M35A2 to single it out, I'd love to propose that one of our master mechanics do a stepXstep stickie like the one one replacing front knuckle boots and repacks of bearings (KUDOS to the gentleman that did that masterfull item), so the rest of us lunkheads can get it right the first time. Further, permit me to suggest to Chris and company that they offer the knuckle and cover article as a CD, along with singling up-reversinghubs, and any other ones you gentlemen think might be interesting or useful to us neophytes in the deuce hobby. While these trucks are mechancally simple, and generally dependable- they are large beasts and sometimes require tools or skills not commonly met with nowadays inside or outside the Army, ergo, it behoovesus to preserve the technical and human knowledge necessary to keep these trucks alive. Thanks again for the time and most kind assistance and consideration,

I remain, Sirs and ladies,
Most Sincerely,

Kyle F. McGrogan

1963 Mercedes Benz S404.114 Unimog (Swiss)
1971 Kaiser Jeep M35A2 Wo/W "Saddam's Nightmare" Vietnam and Desert Storm Deuce

N.B.: I may be looking for a serviceable M104/5 or M332 Trailer in far Northeast (Paris) Texas area in sound presentable condition to be displayed & run with the deuce. Thanks, K.F.M.
 
1,331
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Location
decatur alabama
you just wanting to flip the hubs out vs being hubs in so the rear is the same track with as the rear?

tools you need to flip hubs out is
3/4" socket
3" spindle socket
GREASE

Take out the 8 bolts that hold the rear axle drive flange to the hub, and pull the axle.
take the 2 spindle nuts, and the key washer off.
Remove the hub with the outside drum (its bolted to the other 8 bolts on the inside of the hub)
unbolt the 8 bolts on the back side of the drum thats holding the drum to the hub
knock out the studs, and replace them or just flip them around and reinstall the other direction for a hub out wheel mount configuration.
reinstall the hub to the drum with the 8 bolts again, so the hub is on the opposite side of the drum, vs being by the drum on a hub in set up
repack, replace bearings, and seals on the axle as needed.
Also would be a good time to check your brakes on the axle means you got the drum off and easy inspection to them.
reinstall the hub and bearings. (the races are the same no need to change races)
But the outter bearing stays on the outside, inner hub bearing stays on the inside (same ODs on the bearings but diffrent IDs on them)
reinstall axle, and gasket and reinstall the 8 bolts to the hub holding the drive flange.
reinstall tire.

The rear axle will have the same track width now as the front axle
 

Michael

Active member
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Location
Fulton, MS
Is this the way the military does this? In other words, were the hubs designed to do this or is it just a coincidence that the bolt pattern is the same? Are there any issues with this being weaker? I remember the thread about heat, but after looking at the pictures, I don't see the issue with heat.

It actually looks easier to do than I was thinking.
 

saddamsnightmare

Well-known member
3,618
80
48
Location
Abilene, Texas
January 25th, 2008.

Again I have to applaud the collective genius of this group, more particurly permit me to thank Bjorn over in Virginia for the great photos, and the gentleman at offroadfabworks for the written instructions above. The deuce always had a reputation in the mountains of West Virginia as a slippery truck when lightly loaded on the duals, and the singled ones were supposed to be better off road trucks. I have been meaning to mount the 1100R20 Goodyear G177 Unisteels M+S, but I wanted to get the same front and rear tracks without buying wheels from the M135's. THANKS AGAIN for the MONSTER INTELLECTUAL and MECHANICAL INSIGHTS!!! rofl :D :D :D :D !! AS ALWAYS--- THANKS!!!!!
Sincerely,
Kyle F. McGrogan

1963 Mercedes Benz S404.114 Unimog (Swiss)
1971 Kaiser Jeep M35A2 Wo/W "Saddam's Nightmare" Vietnam and Desert Storm Veteran Deuce.
 

NorthWoodsDuce

New member
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Location
Wisconsin
Search, there are excellent step-by-step instructions on the forum with pictures and everything. There are some great people on here that have done all that for us already, to those people, Thanks! :)
 

SR71BLACKBIRD

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Location
Galion, Ohio
I did notice the bearings are different width. Since I work at timken I am checking to see if the profiles are different and if we can purchase the bearings with inside width with larger bore and vise versa on the other bearing. Has anyone removed the cup from the hub and confirm the cup #'s are the same?
 

tie6044

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Blaine, MN
The cups are the same, 3920's if I remember correctly. Remember you leave the inner bearing as the inner and the outer as the outer even though you are flipping the hub around.
 

gringeltaube

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The cups are the same, 3920's if I remember correctly. Remember you leave the inner bearing as the inner and the outer as the outer even though you are flipping the hub around.
Two 3920 cups, that's correct.
As for the 3994 inner and 392 outer cones: they only fit that way!

G.
 

gringeltaube

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I did notice the bearings are different width. Since I work at timken I am checking to see if the profiles are different and if we can purchase the bearings with inside width with larger bore and vise versa on the other bearing.
......................
Any update on this??? Still checking???:roll:
 

DanielP

New member
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0
Location
Utah
May I ask why you went back to duals?

Fuel economy?

Tire clearance?

Drive train wear?

Found free tires somewhere?

Just wondering. Regards.
 
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