HardCorps79
New member
- 281
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- Location
- Kansas City, MO
So, having tracked down a leak to the throttle shaft seals on the the injector pump, and having acquired the parts and a quick lesson from the guy at the Stanadyne shop, I undertook a fairly ambitious repair for a relative newb. Here's the story:
-Removed the air cleaner (1 minute)
-Removed the CDR valve/mounting bracket (3 minutes)
-Loosened the vacuum pump/lines (2 minutes)
-Removed the air intake manifold (1 hour)- dang there's a lot of hard to get to bolts and inconvenient fuel line clamps. If you undertake this, you'll need a 1/2" wrench and deep socket, 15mm wrench and deep socket, and 9/16" wrench and deep socket. It would probably be helpful to have a jointed/angled wrench or a ratchet wrench in these too.
-Set upon the injector pump and everything went down hill. It really wasn't that difficult to disconnect the throttle cable and spring, or the vacuum check valve. But getting to anything on the IP itself while still mounted in the truck is nearly impossible.
The bracket that holds the throttle cable blocks access to one of the tiny IP cover bolts. It's nearly impossible to fit a wrench, socket or socket screwdriver in there.
Additionally, it's nearly impossible to get the drift pin out of the side arm in order to remove the throttle shaft.
One of the three IP cover plate bolts was also broken! The head was "screwed" in, but the bolt was snapped off at the top of the bowl. This may account for a fair amount of the leaking. Don't see any way to remove the bolt, but to take it to a machine shop...Then, to make my life more fun, a tiny rubber gasket blew into the IP and sunk to the bottom. Nice.
So, I figured, I'd just remove the whole IP from the truck, take it inside and try to work on it. Or worst case scenario, take it to the Stanadyne shop.
I removed the top bolt and passgr side bolt from the IP/Crankcase juncture, but alas, the driver side bolt on the bottom is practically impossible to access. And mine has a rounded corner on the one side I can reach. There is only about 1" of space for a wrench to turn to loosen the bolt.
So where I stand is:
-IP with unserviceable cover- due to snapped bolt
-IP with leaking throttle shaft seals
-IP stuck in truck, due to rounded inaccessible bolt
My recommendations:
-Give yourself more than 4 hours to attempt this kind of repair
-Have ratchet wrenches and angled wrenches available
-Don't try this at night out in an uncovered driveway (that's how the gasket fell in the IP)
-Bring a friend who knows WTH they're doing.
-Don't attempt to work on an IP while it's still in the truck.
I'm going to try and take the IP out of the truck, flush it to get the gasket out, and see if I can't get the throttle shaft out and the seals replaced. Or I may just buy a take-off pump, and later pay to have this rebuilt as a spare.
If anyone has any advice, I'd really appreciate it. Especially in regards to removing the rounded bolt from the bottom driver's side of the IP/Crankcase.
Even better, if there's an old pro in the Kansas City area, that could come by for a tutorial, or even just moral support, I'll buy the beer/soda, and pizza. I'm free this weekend.
Semper Fi
-Removed the air cleaner (1 minute)
-Removed the CDR valve/mounting bracket (3 minutes)
-Loosened the vacuum pump/lines (2 minutes)
-Removed the air intake manifold (1 hour)- dang there's a lot of hard to get to bolts and inconvenient fuel line clamps. If you undertake this, you'll need a 1/2" wrench and deep socket, 15mm wrench and deep socket, and 9/16" wrench and deep socket. It would probably be helpful to have a jointed/angled wrench or a ratchet wrench in these too.
-Set upon the injector pump and everything went down hill. It really wasn't that difficult to disconnect the throttle cable and spring, or the vacuum check valve. But getting to anything on the IP itself while still mounted in the truck is nearly impossible.
The bracket that holds the throttle cable blocks access to one of the tiny IP cover bolts. It's nearly impossible to fit a wrench, socket or socket screwdriver in there.
Additionally, it's nearly impossible to get the drift pin out of the side arm in order to remove the throttle shaft.
One of the three IP cover plate bolts was also broken! The head was "screwed" in, but the bolt was snapped off at the top of the bowl. This may account for a fair amount of the leaking. Don't see any way to remove the bolt, but to take it to a machine shop...Then, to make my life more fun, a tiny rubber gasket blew into the IP and sunk to the bottom. Nice.
So, I figured, I'd just remove the whole IP from the truck, take it inside and try to work on it. Or worst case scenario, take it to the Stanadyne shop.
I removed the top bolt and passgr side bolt from the IP/Crankcase juncture, but alas, the driver side bolt on the bottom is practically impossible to access. And mine has a rounded corner on the one side I can reach. There is only about 1" of space for a wrench to turn to loosen the bolt.
So where I stand is:
-IP with unserviceable cover- due to snapped bolt
-IP with leaking throttle shaft seals
-IP stuck in truck, due to rounded inaccessible bolt
My recommendations:
-Give yourself more than 4 hours to attempt this kind of repair
-Have ratchet wrenches and angled wrenches available
-Don't try this at night out in an uncovered driveway (that's how the gasket fell in the IP)
-Bring a friend who knows WTH they're doing.
-Don't attempt to work on an IP while it's still in the truck.
I'm going to try and take the IP out of the truck, flush it to get the gasket out, and see if I can't get the throttle shaft out and the seals replaced. Or I may just buy a take-off pump, and later pay to have this rebuilt as a spare.
If anyone has any advice, I'd really appreciate it. Especially in regards to removing the rounded bolt from the bottom driver's side of the IP/Crankcase.
Even better, if there's an old pro in the Kansas City area, that could come by for a tutorial, or even just moral support, I'll buy the beer/soda, and pizza. I'm free this weekend.
Semper Fi