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Injector Pump throttle shaft seals (long post!)

HardCorps79

New member
281
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Location
Kansas City, MO
So, having tracked down a leak to the throttle shaft seals on the the injector pump, and having acquired the parts and a quick lesson from the guy at the Stanadyne shop, I undertook a fairly ambitious repair for a relative newb. Here's the story:

-Removed the air cleaner (1 minute)

-Removed the CDR valve/mounting bracket (3 minutes)

-Loosened the vacuum pump/lines (2 minutes)

-Removed the air intake manifold (1 hour)- dang there's a lot of hard to get to bolts and inconvenient fuel line clamps. If you undertake this, you'll need a 1/2" wrench and deep socket, 15mm wrench and deep socket, and 9/16" wrench and deep socket. It would probably be helpful to have a jointed/angled wrench or a ratchet wrench in these too.

-Set upon the injector pump and everything went down hill. It really wasn't that difficult to disconnect the throttle cable and spring, or the vacuum check valve. But getting to anything on the IP itself while still mounted in the truck is nearly impossible.

The bracket that holds the throttle cable blocks access to one of the tiny IP cover bolts. It's nearly impossible to fit a wrench, socket or socket screwdriver in there.

Additionally, it's nearly impossible to get the drift pin out of the side arm in order to remove the throttle shaft.

One of the three IP cover plate bolts was also broken! The head was "screwed" in, but the bolt was snapped off at the top of the bowl. This may account for a fair amount of the leaking. Don't see any way to remove the bolt, but to take it to a machine shop...Then, to make my life more fun, a tiny rubber gasket blew into the IP and sunk to the bottom. Nice.

So, I figured, I'd just remove the whole IP from the truck, take it inside and try to work on it. Or worst case scenario, take it to the Stanadyne shop.

I removed the top bolt and passgr side bolt from the IP/Crankcase juncture, but alas, the driver side bolt on the bottom is practically impossible to access. And mine has a rounded corner on the one side I can reach. There is only about 1" of space for a wrench to turn to loosen the bolt.

So where I stand is:
-IP with unserviceable cover- due to snapped bolt
-IP with leaking throttle shaft seals
-IP stuck in truck, due to rounded inaccessible bolt

My recommendations:
-Give yourself more than 4 hours to attempt this kind of repair
-Have ratchet wrenches and angled wrenches available
-Don't try this at night out in an uncovered driveway (that's how the gasket fell in the IP)
-Bring a friend who knows WTH they're doing.
-Don't attempt to work on an IP while it's still in the truck.

I'm going to try and take the IP out of the truck, flush it to get the gasket out, and see if I can't get the throttle shaft out and the seals replaced. Or I may just buy a take-off pump, and later pay to have this rebuilt as a spare.

If anyone has any advice, I'd really appreciate it. Especially in regards to removing the rounded bolt from the bottom driver's side of the IP/Crankcase.

Even better, if there's an old pro in the Kansas City area, that could come by for a tutorial, or even just moral support, I'll buy the beer/soda, and pizza. I'm free this weekend.

Semper Fi
 
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m38inmaine

Well-known member
2,090
45
48
Location
Maine USA
I have changed out 5 pumps now, not really too hard. Use a long extension to reach that bottom bolt, might need a swivel adapter. Then the fun really begins, now remove the oil fill tube, look in the hole and while turning the engine over by hand align one of 3 bolts that hold the pump gear to the pump and remove them, but don't let the bolt drop down in the timing cover. I you have trembly hands have someone else remove them. I would suggest removing the three gear bolts before taking that third pump bolt out. When you get new intake gaskets make sure you get the heavy duty type for the J code engine. You are better off exchanging the pump for a rebuilt unit, there are alot of upgrades that aid in starting the engine. If I lived closer I would gladly help out, once you have done one they are pretty easy. Also make sure no dirt gets into the injectors or lines.
 
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Wolf.Dose

Active member
1,062
9
38
Location
Boehl-Iggelheim, Germany
M38inmaline is correct! If you own the propper tooling, it is not a so big event to take out the IP. If you know something about IP's and have a good pictural memory, the disassembel and reassemble of the IP with replacing all seals from the repair kit should take between 30 to 45 minutes (my best time so far was 30 minutes for that).
And all the tooling is metric, even some inch tools fit. With inch tools you will damage some nuts and bolts, for the inch tools are out of tolerance of the metric tools! Start thinking metric, the 6.2 l Diesel is a metric engine!
Wolf from Germany
 

HardCorps79

New member
281
3
0
Location
Kansas City, MO
Wolf from Germany
Danke schon. Dein Englisch ist besser als mein Deutsch. Ich habe drei jare in Amerikane schule gelernt, aber ich kann buchstabeln nicht, und habe ein sehr klein vokabeln. Es ist immer gut wann ich sehe Sie am hier. Sie sollen mehr schreiben.

So sind Sie militar auf Deutschland, oder nur finden Sie das topik interessant? Fur mich ist beide hier:-D

Semper Fi
 

Wolf.Dose

Active member
1,062
9
38
Location
Boehl-Iggelheim, Germany
Meine Antwort ist ganz einfach!
Wie auf dem Bild zu sehen, besitze ich einen Kaiser Jeep M715 mit M101A1 Anhaenger, den Kaiser seit 1982, den Anhänger jetzt 10 Jahre.
Anyway, to make is easyer for you, I have some bussiness in the States, with a maker of green-yellow machines (Sorry to the watch-dogs, I did not mention a name!), sometime with other makers, however, not very often. So English is a part of my bussiness, I have to even if I do not want to.
I learned speaking English with all bad consequences with GI stationed at the 7th US-Army training area in Wildflecken/Germany when I was 14 years old. This is some 38 yeas ago.. My teachers by that time did not like my American slang.
Due to beeing a motor vehicle expert in Germany, cars and trucks are my bussiness, also agricaltural tractors and working mashines. I inspect these vehicles before they are leagal to go on the road. This system is different to the States, where the maker do some self certification. Product liability is almost the same here and at you.
So I once was infected by the "green virus", I still stick to the mil vics. Most of my coleagues (spelling correct?) are not interested in these vehicles and do dislike them. The reason I do not like to discuss here!
Tomorow morning I go some 540 km to the training area Bergen for the 10th easter meeting of mil vics.
Greetings Wolf from Germany
 
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