Heater installation PICs?

[vtach]

There used to be some instructions on the old site on how to install a standard coolant heater on a no heat truck. Now the PICs are all blocked?? Anyone have a link to this or some good instructions like hose size and length? Search did not come up with much.
Thanks.

 

[jwaller]

ps mag has all the hookups.

 

[joeypushjr1]

this is mine not a big help sorry if i rember ill go out and take some mesurements and what not

 

[jasonjc]

Some one eles did a right up on installing one under the glove box.

 

[jwaller]

http://old.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?module=pagesetter&type=file&func=get&tid=1&fid=file&pid=298

from the old site.

 

[cranetruck]

Use 5/8" heater hose and observe the "In" and "Out" arrows on the heater itself.
Here is the PS mag note mentioned by jwaller.

Edit: Added wiring diagram and heater flow directions

 

[agood1]

What value is the resistor you show in the wiring diagram?

 

[Boatcarpenter]

The resistor allows you to have low speed. High speed is full power.
BC

 

[cranetruck]

What value is the resistor you show in the wiring diagram?

Depends on the blower motor somewhat, one manual suggests 5 ohms and I would recommend that the wattage rating be about 100 to make sure it won't burn up.

 

[Speddmon]

What value is the resistor you show in the wiring diagram?

Bjorn is right about the heater resistor, the set-up calls for a 5 Ohm, 50 watt resistor, but I used a 100 watt for better heat dissipation so it doesn't burn up.

Just google 5 ohm power resistor, or go to e-pay....I bought a two pack of nice sealed resistors inside of pretty aluminum heat sinks for less than $10 S&H included.

 

[agood1]

Is 100w enough? The blower motor show 6.5amps. At 24V that would be 156 watts at full load.

 

[cranetruck]

Well, the voltage is dropped across the resistor and is much less.....

 

[agood1]

Doing a quick search, the 5 ohm seems to be much more expensive than other values. $65 in some places. Don't see any on ebay right now.

 

[zout]

Isn't that power wire to the firewall circuit breakers #10 ?

When I hook these up I was planning on using the #10 that fed the existing firewall circuit breaker - just a 2 into 1 connector (military style) then feed the jumpered hot #10 back into each circuit breaker (existing and one I installed for the heater system).

As neither of the trucks had the heater systems in them - I had to make the resistor holders at the firewall (easy enough to do with light aluminum) took pics of these and posted them under my thread on the units.

Keeping it under the same thread as heaters and not trying to steal it - when I tested these circuits above - I lost headlights ????? not even on the same circuit - but all the other lights work - gotta figure that one out - hope I didn;t kick a bucket of snakes here.

 

[Speddmon]

Is 100w enough? The blower motor show 6.5amps. At 24V that would be 156 watts at full load.

Remember though, that's at full load....how much load is a fan impeller going to put on a motor???? I'm going to go out on a limb here and say less than 5% load...it's only moving air, not trying to turn a belt or conveyor or something.

Keeping it under the same thread as heaters and not trying to steal it - when I tested these circuits above - I lost headlights ????? not even on the same circuit - but all the other lights work - gotta figure that one out - hope I didn;t kick a bucket of snakes here.

from the sound of it you did this on more than one truck...did they both/all loose headlights?? if it was just one truck, it's probably just a coincidence, because the headlights and parking lights are all fed from the same source, so you should have lost them all.

 

[phantomjeep]

The motor full load amps(FLA) is if the motor is moving air(CFM)at 100 % . blower motors run at 40 to 80% of FLA. FLA depends on air flow (CFM) The blower is moving. Heater cores,duct work, deverter box, air intake all create resistence, or static preassure, this lowers the amp draw of the motor. Close the air intake, amps drop, open amps go up. Restrict the output amps drop, remove all restrictions,(remove intake duct,and output duct, free flow) blower motor will run at 100% + amps and over heat motor. Blowers are designed to work with some static back preassure.

 

[agood1]

Bjorn is right about the heater resistor, the set-up calls for a 5 Ohm, 50 watt resistor, but I used a 100 watt for better heat dissipation so it doesn't burn up.

Just google 5 ohm power resistor, or go to e-pay....I bought a two pack of nice sealed resistors inside of pretty aluminum heat sinks for less than $10 S&H included.

Do you have a part number or any other info on the resistors you bought? I can't seem to find anything......reasonablly priced.

 

[Speddmon]

I'll dig around and see what I can come up with...I have it somewhere.

 

[Speddmon]

Do you have a part number or any other info on the resistors you bought? I can't seem to find anything......reasonablly priced.

Here is some stuff I came up with for you...what I bought from e-pay was a 100 watt ceramic power resistor...very similar to the one shown in the first link below. However there are none on e-pay at the moment that I can see.

That being said, you are better off to buy them from a regular supplier as it will be cheaper in the long run. Below are two links for the same company, Newark Electronics. The first link is for a Vishay ceramic resistor, almost exactly like the one I used, only difference is the power rating....these 50 watt resistors will work though. The second link is for a regular wire wound resistor like most of the trucks out there would have in them...very good to use as well, because they are cheap, and have the higher 100 watt power rating.

http://www.newark.com/vishay-dale/rh0505r000fe02/power-resistor/dp/65K1890


http://www.newark.com/ohmite/l100j5r0/power-resistor/dp/02F2335

 

[agood1]

OK, thanks for the info.
All I could find on e-pay were $70.
I will order it from newark.

Thanks again. I don't know why my searches didn't turn this up.