• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

CARC paint;how to remove-yet another question...

boomer

Member
647
2
18
Location
Illinois/Wisconsin
I just picked up another truck, which was repainted, by the military. There are spots that you can pick off pieces, revealing the O.D. paint. I don't want to get into the job of sanding, getting the deluxe gear, etc.
There are three other options: 1. Chemical/carc strip. This might take off the O.D., that would be o.k., as I would not want to prep the metal ( wash, sand/steel wool). 2. Using a heat gun & scraper (plastic or metal). 3. Using a high pressure washer.
I think # 3 would work best, followed by #2.
The cost is not a factor, as much as the time & the easiest way.
Comments, idea's and suggestions welcomed. Thanks
 

keithc

Member
54
1
8
Location
Lincolnton, Ga
I am attempting to remove paint from My deuce as well. I tried 80 grit pads on my 4 inch grinder. The pads fly to pieces afrter less than one minute of use. So far I have removed 1/6 th of the total surface area (20 pads later). I tried several chemical solvents with out any success. I am open to suggestions as well. I do not mind going down to bare metal.

Keith
 

BillIdaho

Member
417
7
18
Location
Caldwell, Idaho
Although I have no first-hand knowledge (that's my disclaimer), I was told by a guy that dabbles in MV's A LOT, that if a guy is not in a hurry, plain old fashioned brake fluid will loosen darn near any paint. It just takes days and days. Maybe weeks. He assured me, it will lift it, but it is slower than molasses. He told me you coat it, wait a few days, coat it again, wait again, and coat it a third time, then the real wait begins. A week or two later, the paint will literally fall off.
Ladies and gentlemen of the jury, let the record reflect I have never tried this method myself. This guy has given me other bits of oddball advise over the years, and has never let me down.
 

wdbtchr

New member
883
3
0
Location
St. Louis, MO
The only way I've had success removing CARC without grinding is using Aircraft stripper made by Klean Strip. It will take it off if you can stand the fumes. It's brutal even outdoors, I use a full face respirator with the yellow cartridges.2cents Don't get it on bare skin either, really burns.
 

atankersdad

In Memorial
In Memorial
1,878
15
0
Location
Glen Arm Maryland
If you are removing this paint PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE wear a HEPA half or full face dust mask and personel protective garb to keep these particles out of your pores or any body opening. CARC paint contains a carcinogen. Also, the paint chips and dust must be contained and disposed of. Do not do this in your yard or driveway where your kids play or your animals walk. Do not do this in your shop and allow the dust to just float away into the beams. This is bad stuff. This is bad stuff.
 

stumps

Active member
1,700
12
38
Location
Maryland
If you are removing this paint PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE wear a HEPA half or full face dust mask and personel protective garb to keep these particles out of your pores or any body opening. CARC paint contains a carcinogen. Also, the paint chips and dust must be contained and disposed of. Do not do this in your yard or driveway where your kids play or your animals walk. Do not do this in your shop and allow the dust to just float away into the beams. This is bad stuff. This is bad stuff.
Catalyzed CARC paint does indeed contain a carcinogen: Silica sand.

But then, so does your kid's sand box.

-Chuck
 

greenjeepster

New member
1,773
10
0
Location
Southbury, CT
Yes CARC is nasty stuff. The DOD even went as far as putting out a publication on there being a very high incidence of "gulf war syndrome" in service people who spent a lot of time sanding and repainting trucks and equipment in theater.
 

rgregj

New member
95
0
0
Location
Spartanburg, SC
I am currently striping my deuce, on the heavier metals (frame, running boards) I have had great luck with a pneumatic needle scaler.
I have even used it (with great care) on the fuel tank. It will leave the rust oxide primer while getting rid of the (in my case very thick ) CARC paint.

Regards,

Greg
 

Nonotagain

New member
1,444
41
0
Location
Parkville, MD
Dot 3 brake fluid while damaging to most paints won't even touch fully cured CARC paint.

CARC has to survive exposure to DS2 decontamination fluid which will peel almost any paint with the exception of cured Polyurethane.

CARC sanding residue is no more dangerous that any other polyurethane paint residue.

PRC DeSoto makes a chemical stripper called PR-3500 which contains phenol which will blister the skin in short order, plus it has a very distinctive smell.

If using abrasive media (sand blasting) methods to remove paint, both the abrasive media and the dust need to be disposed of properly. If attempting to use pressure blasting there is a good possibility that the metal may deform.

When I have large surfaces requiring cured polyurethanes to be removed, I coat the surface with two coats of PR-3500 and then cover the wetted surface with newspaper to keep the evaporation to a minimum. After about an hour, I strip back the paper to reveal a heavily wrinkled painted surface.
 

Snarky

New member
378
9
0
Location
Brazosport, TX
Yes the lethal ingredient in CARC is sand. Also some of the pigments likes cobalt are harmful too, but no more harmful than any other paint, keep it out of your lungs but one truck shouldn't give you silicosis unless it takes you 10-15 years you get the CARC off your truck, which is a possibility.

I have had good results with a needler, which is also called a paint scaler, needlescaler, needle gun.

http://www.milspray.com/technical-data/pdfs/MIL-DTL-53039B_scb_carc_green.pdf
 
Last edited:

boomer

Member
647
2
18
Location
Illinois/Wisconsin
Thanks, to all, for your comments. It seems that which ever route I go, I will have to get a de-can suit & haz mat stuff. I was hoping to avoid this. Just a good mask. Another collector suggested to have a "pro" do it. I would always wonder about any specs or dust! (that would be inside).
I am leaning torwards a needle scraper. It seems to be the best way, as far as: not worrying about dust (comming off in sizable pieces/chips, time, and fairly easier- than chemicals.
Point / Counter-Point??
 

wdbtchr

New member
883
3
0
Location
St. Louis, MO
What ever method you use you need to recognise the hazzards. Wether mechanical making dust, or chemical leaving waste to dispose of properly CARC is dangerous stuff.

I personally prefer the stripper, dealing with the fumes is easier for me than dealing with dust.

As far as a needle scaler, I've tried that I didn't like the pitting left behind and you still have to deal with dust and disposal of the chips that fly everywhere.

Your results may vary my 2cents:roll:
 

Stouttrout

New member
51
0
0
Location
Sour Lake, Tx
Here is a trick i learned form guy that use to restore old military vehicles. He used a simple paint stripper he bought at Home Depot. He would brush it on and then cover it with saran wrap. He would leave it for a day or two and come back. The wrap allows the remover to sit there and work on it without evaporating. it seemed to work good with what he was working on. I plan to try this method on a door on mine that has been repainted.
 

bassetdeuce

New member
498
6
0
Location
Orange City, FL
Just wire brush the loose stuff, needle scale the thick stuff, then paint over everything. Just doing that would be better than some of the motor pool paintjobs I've seen.
 

bigmike

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,006
356
83
Location
Dixon CA.
I had good success with 40 grit paper...not the cheap harborfrieght stuff, but 3M etc. I used a vibratory sander and it really tore up the big runs, chips etc. I used a dust mask, outside, with plenty of ventilation. for the really nasty stuff, floor boards etc, I used a 4" sanding disk and a 4" electric grinder.

I was able to smooth the huge chips and blobs good enough to apply fresh CARC with pretty good success. (I'm happy).
 

wdbtchr

New member
883
3
0
Location
St. Louis, MO
Here is a trick i learned form guy that use to restore old military vehicles. He used a simple paint stripper he bought at Home Depot. He would brush it on and then cover it with saran wrap. He would leave it for a day or two and come back. The wrap allows the remover to sit there and work on it without evaporating. it seemed to work good with what he was working on. I plan to try this method on a door on mine that has been repainted.
:ditto:I used this method on my '53 Dodge on the large flat areas using Aircraft Stripper outside on windy days. There were multiple layers of what looked like white house paint the rural fire dept. had painted the truck with over the green. After a couple of hours the paint just slid off with a scraper. Wind really adversely effects Aircraft Stripper. The upside is the house paint prevented rust in areas usually rusted out, so I guess it was well worth the hassel of having to strip it.:rolleyes:
 
Last edited:

ernieflash

New member
12
0
0
Location
RI
Needle scaler

I just finished a wrecker I used a needle scaler worked really nice took all the loose camo off and got right down to bare metal in most spots a lot less messy than stripper just my 2 cents
 

jfnemt1ff1

Member
526
1
18
Location
Higgins Lake Mi.
I have to say sand/media blasting is the best and quickes. Buck when I did my goar it took way to loog and the cost kep going up. You can see osic here if look. This spring I will be duing this spring on one of my M35s .
John
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks