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Spacer Kit for Hummer Wheels

Sarge29

Member
170
1
18
Location
Saluda, SC
OK, I decided to go with spacers for the front of my 1008. My question is about the studs. I will be using the truck for road use with an occasional trip across the pasture and some trailer towing on the farm and on the road. An earlier post stated to be sure the spacers were for EARLY chevy and that in later years a metric bolt was used. Is there a problem with metric bolt or do I need to have the 9/16 studs? Anyone here have a set of spacers that they are willing to part with?
 

SmokeyDod

New member
206
2
0
Location
Easley, SC
I agree with M1075 by just putting on 2" spacers . That's all. As to trying to make it "track" different- well that's everyone's opinion. However, put spacers on front (which you must) and then leave them off on rear. Get behind it---"Looks kinda of goofy to me (opinion only). I already have a set of 2" spacers on 1 of my M1028 with the old 8 bolt humvee wheels with set of used 36"x12.50. Looks good but rides rough.

I just within this past Monday picked up my second M116 trailor which has almost brand new 37" radials which has the better 12-bolt bead locks and run flats which I am putting on my other M1028. Both trucks have been lifted 4". With the height of truck plus the 37" tires, "IT JUST DON"T LOOK RIGHT" to me. Also If you drive where my son & I go and turn it up sideways. ,, there is increased chance to flip sideways.

Since I work with several different machine shops, I had a friend make me two sets of spacers and I bought & installed the 32 new lugs and lug nuts per set. I had to buy about 2 ft. of 9" round steel bar and that alone cost me 4yrs ago about $125.00, so you see these are not cheap when you add everything up. But I think it's best way. The other way of "cutting out" the center and "re-centering" the rims, I am not sure of cost. BUT if you was to go this way, I would make sure whom ever does it has done it BEFORE and KNOWS what he's doing--centering exactly is a "MUST". Right now I run the 37" on the 16.5" "wagon" wheel type rims and it's okay but you just can't air them down for severe rough places because of the rims do not have ridge to help lock tire in place and also there could be other issues you could run into. To put on the 37" I think you need min of 4" lift and still will have to trim front fenders bottoms some. Just my opinion. Smokey
 

SmokeyDod

New member
206
2
0
Location
Easley, SC
Also, I think you should use same size lugs and lugs nuts is on the truck now, because they are so close in size you can get them mixed up and crossed threaded. I never realized that front and rear were diffeerent widths. I just went out and measured my M-1028 which has the wagon wheel 37" on it and front and rear were about same (68 to 68-1/2" C-C). Then I checked The M1031 with the generator and it has the NDT 900-16" on it and they checked the same C-C . Smokey

PS : I still have a copy of drawing I made on the 2" spacers when I had the machine shop make them. If you or anyone needs a copy just let me know.
 

bullitt5244

New member
10
0
0
Location
Knoxville, Tn
Also, I think you should use same size lugs and lugs nuts is on the truck now, because they are so close in size you can get them mixed up and crossed threaded. I never realized that front and rear were diffeerent widths. I just went out and measured my M-1028 which has the wagon wheel 37" on it and front and rear were about same (68 to 68-1/2" C-C). Then I checked The M1031 with the generator and it has the NDT 900-16" on it and they checked the same C-C . Smokey

PS : I still have a copy of drawing I made on the 2" spacers when I had the machine shop make them. If you or anyone needs a copy just let me know.
Could you PM me that drawing?
 

SmokeyDod

New member
206
2
0
Location
Easley, SC
Sure I will, just got back on. I'll have to get my wife to help me so bear with me. Hope to have it to you in next few min. Let me know if came thru okay. Smokey
 
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