Electric fuel Pump install?

[southdave]

I bought an electric fuel pump it delivers 8psi to the IP, while checking spec. on the existing mech. pump I found this: out of the trouble shoting tm

Check fuel pump operation. Disconnect input fuel line at the fuel filter. Disconnect
pink lead from fuel injector pump. Use a quart capacity container, and crank​

engine for 15 seconds. Container should be at least

¼ full or contain ½ pt (0.231)

of fuel. Install low pressure gage in fuel line. Crank engine for 15 more seconds.
Fuel pressure should be 5.5-6.5 psi (38-45 kPa). Reconnect fuel inlet line to fuel​

filter, and reconnect pink lead to fuel injector pump.

My question is this going to create problems for me down the road? I am installing a turbo and planed on routing my oil though a block off plate where the mech pump is located. would apprec. any feed back maybe the filter diff. pressure would compensate for the increase in pressure?


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[Screamin' Metal]

Your static cranking fuel pressure was 5.5-6.5 (TM), now your electric pump is 8.0.....here is what I would do.
A good stock mechanical pump can run anywhere from 8 to 14 PSI.....all your doing is giving the IP a constant supply of fuel......yes at idle.....the mechanical pumps pressure is gonna be lower. As long as the IP doens't exceed what your electric pump is capable of delivering....you'll be good.
I like electric pumps cause if you ever run out of fuel or change out a fuel line.....you save alot of wear and tear on your starter.....its self priming.....just be sure to put a fuse in the circuit and also have a seperate cutoff switch. I just wire mine so if I loose oil pressure, I loose the pump.....a safety precaution.

If your adding a turbo.....you'll have to pick up engine oil pressure to feed its bearings. Yes, on the outlet side....you can tap into the fuelpump blockoff plate for the oil return......though a lot of people put a spigot into the side od the oilpan for quicker oil return......

 

[southdave]

I was kind of worried about messin up the infamous glass ball and the increased load on the return lines?

 

[southdave]

BTW here a pic it a common fuel pump found them cheap. A buddy sugested it after he installed one on 4bt swap

 

[gunit]

any idea how much pressure the IP puts out on the nhc 250. would be nice if you could put an electic fuel pump to eleminate it.

 

[southdave]

check the TM s I am unfamailar with motor?

 

[Screamin' Metal]

Ya'll do know that just any fuel pump won't pump diesel fuel, don't you? Diesel is thicker the gas, and as it cools....gets thicker. At 32 degrees......its dawm near like heavy motor oil.....would hate to see ya'll put on a pump and burn one up. Mr. Gasket makes one for about 20 bucks, its a non-rotary pump......a good quality Aeromotive Diesel rotary vane pump will run about 60 bucks. Its made by Carter........and will last many years......

 

[lavarok]

You want an Airtex E3158. When looking for an electric pump on my M1009, I sourced one that was for an '88 P30 Van with a 6.2L engine. I installed it this past weekend and it solved many problems I was having with my mechanical pump. I ran a new 3/8 rubber line to my fuel filter inlet, bypassing the mechanical pump and line under the intake completely.

 

[southdave]

I am using a E8153 air tech see below: cut and paste from the Cat. got mine for 20 bucks ​

Diesel Applications
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Part Flow Inlet/Outlet
Number Type Volts Pressure (GPH) Size Applications
E8131 Solenoid 24 10-14 PSI 35 3/8 hose 24 Volt Large Diesel Applications​

E8153 Solenoid 12 10-14 PSI 35 3/8 hose Diesel Engine Applications

 

[68impalass]

In pic number 3 it looks like the rubber fuel line is kinked a bit. Be careful of that.

 

[Screamin' Metal]

I am using a E8153 air tech see below: cut and paste from the Cat. got mine for 20 bucks ​

Diesel Applications
​

​

Part Flow Inlet/Outlet
Number Type Volts Pressure (GPH) Size Applications
E8131 Solenoid 24 10-14 PSI 35 3/8 hose 24 Volt Large Diesel Applications​

E8153 Solenoid 12 10-14 PSI 35 3/8 hose Diesel Engine Applications

Sorry sir.....didn't know that you had the part #'s and all.....the civys got one that looks just like it and won't pump warm pee..........My apologies sir.......

 

[lavarok]

In pic number 3 it looks like the rubber fuel line is kinked a bit. Be careful of that.

Not kinked. There is a notch in the metal piece attached to the frame. The hose rests nicely right in it.

 

[BiggsChevys]

i would still get another 3 inch piece of hose, split it and wrap it around that rubber fuel line..... eventually it will wear through

 

[lavarok]

Perhaps...and a cheap preventative measure so might as well. If I ever have to remove the pump and reinstall, I'll use a 90 on the outlet so the hose will attached downward from the frame rail to the pump. These pumps use flared fittings, so it requires a flared to NPT coupler. Then at least a NPT to 3/8 barb. My local ACE didn't sell flared to barbed connectors.

I have a habit of keeping about 2' of 3/8 fuel line in my trucks. Long ago, I had a situation where I cracked a metal fuel line out in the woods and that little bit of extra hose saved my a**!

 

[southdave]

Sorry sir.....didn't know that you had the part #'s and all.....the civys got one that looks just like it and won't pump warm pee..........My apologies sir.......

No Prob. I need somone to question, what I do. Somtime I feel like a monkey with a termite stick. LOL Lava you made me look up the factory spec. on the pump, and in the process I found a pump and the info for pump for my duece if it ever craps out Thanks

 

[akonitony]

I will try and get some pics to post, but don't hold yer breath on this. I did the electric fuel pump on my M1009 and located it where the two metal lines are connected together with the piece of rubber hose that is about 6" long, about 2' from the gas tank. I mounted the pump up into the frame and looped the rubber hoses through the holes in the frame so they are well supported, and are not up against any sharp edges. All-in-all, it looks almost like it was meant to be that way. Unfortunately, the electric diesel fuel pump I bought off ebay does not have enough intestinal fortitude to supply my IP, and now the engine runs very rough, or not at all. The pump is supposed to provide 5-7#, but it evidently is either a lemon, defect, or the moon is out of phase with the seventh house...
Anyway, the engine ran fine before this mod, and the only reason I went to the electric fuel pump is the same reason I will go to an electric fan setup - need all the horsies I can squeeze out of 6.2L of NA diesel. Speaking of electric fans. I bought one that came out of a front-wheel-drive Caddy V8, and she works fine on the Suburban 6.2 I currently have it in - even in Alabama's 105F summers for the past two years. The whole setup cost me about $30 from the junkyard.

 

[Screamin' Metal]

The electric fans are nice....just gotta install them correctly. Now on that pump.....you gotta outrun the IP with some pressure. Aeromotive have a nice little rotary vane pump, its a Carter...and its rated @ about 12 PSI.....whick will make a ass outta the stock pump. You have to be careful with the CFM's & Pressure or you'll make things worse.....

That pump you could always use to transfer fuel or install into your filtering system......

 

[akonitony]

Thanks for the info. Do you have a good source for the carter pump? Would 14 PSI be too much pressure?

 

[rosco]

You might want to shield that pump from the exhaust system there. Its going to be pretty warm in that spot.

 

[akonitony]

You are absolutely correct. I noticed a heat shield in that area on the M1008 I am working on right now.