M1008 Glow plug wiring diagram

[Alucard-HD]

Does anyone have a wiring Diagram for a M1008 or know of some where i can one. Me and a friend are converting this truck over to he push button setup.

 

[papercu]

Did you try "Search" for "Glow plug wiring diagram" ? Wayne

 

[Alucard-HD]

Did you try "Search" for "Glow plug wiring diagram" ? Wayne

No, but i am now.

 

[Alucard-HD]

Ok i couldnt find it, why is everyone saying the GP is only 12V when i put 12v plugs in my truck and they fried. here is were i bought my new plugs and they are 24v SSDiesel Supply :: GM 6.5 TD Specialists

Also is that huge resistor thing required when runing the push button?

 

[ralbelt]

Under the resources on the top of the page, find TM 9-2320-289-34 Chapter 2 has electrical troubleshooting and wiring.

 

[Warthog]

Ok i couldnt find it, why is everyone saying the GP is only 12V when i put 12v plugs in my truck and they fried. here is were i bought my new plugs and they are 24v SSDiesel Supply :: GM 6.5 TD Specialists

Also is that huge resistor thing required when runing the push button?

They fried because your BIG resistor has been disconnected. They are getting the full 24v. I would bet your "new" plugs are fired also.

The wiring diagrams are located in the Appendix F of the -20 and and Appendix E of the -34 manuals.

The plugs you bought are not true 24v plugs. They are used in 24v systems. They are the same as the Welman 070 12v plugs.

If the plugs are connected to the 24v terminal block, yes you will need the big resistor. If you hook them up to the 12v terminal block, no you do not need the resistor.

My advice to you is to download the the -20 or -34 manual, copy and print the wiring diagrams, and physically check to see how your truck is wired.

I just did a search on " glow plug wiring diagram" and found many links, this being one of them. It explains the function of the resistor. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/28290-m1008-resistor.html And in post #31 on page 4 has the Glowplug wiring diagram.

 

[Alucard-HD]

They fried because your BIG resistor has been disconnected. They are getting the full 24v. I would bet your "new" plugs are fired also.

The wiring diagrams are located in the Appendix F of the -20 and and Appendix E of the -34 manuals.

The plugs you bought are not true 24v plugs. They are used in 24v systems. They are the same as the Welman 070 12v plugs.

If the plugs are connected to the 24v terminal block, yes you will need the big resistor. If you hook them up to the 12v terminal block, no you do not need the resistor.

My advice to you is to download the the -20 or -34 manual, copy and print the wiring diagrams, and physically check to see how your truck is wired.

I just did a search on " glow plug wiring diagram" and found many links, this being one of them. It explains the function of the resistor. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/28290-m1008-resistor.html And in post #31 on page 4 has the Glowplug wiring diagram.

Great thank you very much...

 

[Ken_86gt]

This is a frequent question, so just to restate it, the stock glow plugs in the CUCV's are designed to run on a 12V system. The reason we are able to use the 12v plugs is due to the big resister on the firewall being part of the circuit. If you want to use 24V plugs just bypass the resistor. If you want to use the 12V plugs without the resistor you need to move the wire that feeds the resistor over to a 12V source instead of the 24V one that it is attached to.

If you bought 24V plugs to use I would try to use them before buying new ones by altering the wiring to bypass the resistor. Test them first with an ohm meter, should shouw a very low resistance reading. Stock plugs would probably show .5 - 1.5 ohms, I would think that the 24V plugs would be similiar or slightly lower.

 

[Alucard-HD]

This is a frequent question, so just to restate it, the stock glow plugs in the CUCV's are designed to run on a 12V system. The reason we are able to use the 12v plugs is due to the big resister on the firewall being part of the circuit. If you want to use 24V plugs just bypass the resistor. If you want to use the 12V plugs without the resistor you need to move the wire that feeds the resistor over to a 12V source instead of the 24V one that it is attached to.

If you bought 24V plugs to use I would try to use them before buying new ones by altering the wiring to bypass the resistor. Test them first with an ohm meter, should shouw a very low resistance reading. Stock plugs would probably show .5 - 1.5 ohms, I would think that the 24V plugs would be similiar or slightly lower.

Thanks for the info, i bought the truck and the resistor wasnt on. How would i go about putting one on? Also will i need that or the card i fried to run the push button. heres a pic of the fried card.

 

[Warthog]

Thanks for the info, i bought the truck and the resistor wasnt on. How would i go about putting one on? Also will i need that or the card i fried to run the push button. heres a pic of the fried card.

I'm really confused. You previously told us that the resistor was disconnected. Now you say it wasn't on the truck. You want to add a manual switch but have no idea how because you don't know if you need to replace the card. (that burned card is not part of the glow plug system)

Spend a couple of days reading the manuals, checking your wiring and learn how to troubleshoot the glowplug system.

I am no expert on the CUCVs but I have spent weeks if not months reading the Tech Manuals and past posts and I have learn how these things work.

Later

 

[Alucard-HD]

I'm really confused. You previously told us that the resistor was disconnected. Now you say it wasn't on the truck. You want to add a manual switch but have no idea how because you don't know if you need to replace the card. (that burned card is not part of the glow plug system)

Spend a couple of days reading the manuals, checking your wiring and learn how to troubleshoot the glowplug system.

I am no expert on the CUCVs but I have spent weeks if not months reading the Tech Manuals and past posts and I have learn how these things work.

Later

Not there, not connected whats the difference? all and all it isnt doing the job.
For the record and so i know what was that card that was burnt?

 

[Warthog]

Not there, not connected whats the difference? all and all it isnt doing the job.
For the record and so i know what was that card that was burnt?

And how do you know that the resistor wouldn't do its job if it where connected?

Lets look at the burnt card. Let say that I am new to the CUCV and I was trying to find out want something was that was connect to some wires.

I asked a question in another thread http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/49040-m1008-glow-plug-issues.html and told them it wasn't in the BIG box but was in a smaller box and a user told me that it might be part of the diagnostic system.....and to read the CUCV Forum WiKi page, download the Tech Manuals and read the wiring diagrams......hmmmm

So I go to the CUCV Forum CUCV - Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite ,

open the CUCV FAQ Wiki http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showwiki.php?title=wiki:Cucv

and download the -34 manual http://old.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?module=pagesetter&type=file&func=get&tid=1&fid=file&pid=10

I then look at the wiring diagram for the Diagnostic System.

What am I looking for???? I know the card is by the diagnostic port and is in a blackbox that has 7 wires coming out of it. I wonder what the wire colors are?

Lets see, brown, black, black, purple, blank, dark green, tan and light green.

Now the user told me it might be the Resistor Board or the Tach Buffer Module.
The Resistor Board has 13 wires in it so that can't be it.

How about the Tach Buffer Module? I see the wire colors: brown, black, black purple, dk green, tan and lt green. Wow I think I found the part. The guy must have known what he was talking about!!!

-------------------------------------------------------

Your burnt card is the Tach Buffer Module and is used with the STE/ICE Diagnostic system. It is not part of the glowplug system. You do have an issue as to why it fried and you need to see where the short is but that is another issue.

Members of this board are more than happy to help with issues, but when the poster asks the question multiple times in different posts and then doesn't accept/listen to the info provided, that causes problems.

I will agree that some posts/answers are garbage, but when you have someone that takes the time to try and make the asnwer as clear or detailed as possible. you need to listen, and learn until you can become an expert.

Good luck with changing out your Glowplug system to a manual switch

 

[K9Vic]

Just about everything you need to know about these trucks has been posted already, just a matter of searching and taking the time to read through your searches. I can say that this place has saved me several thousand dollars in repairs that I did myself, that were simple repairs. I took several days and many hours to just scan and read though topics that I needed help on. I can say that I now have a pretty good knowledge of these trucks and can help others locally that have them.

All the information you need to bypass the glow plug card has been posted in the past. You still have to either get a resistor block, or bypass it by hooking up to the front battery for 12volts. There is a resistor block on eBay for like $20, that is work the price if you want it stock.

 

[dstang97]

Great post

And how do you know that the resistor wouldn't do its job if it where connected?

Lets look at the burnt card. Let say that I am new to the CUCV and I was trying to find out want something was that was connect to some wires.

I asked a question in another thread http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/49040-m1008-glow-plug-issues.html and told them it wasn't in the BIG box but was in a smaller box and a user told me that it might be part of the diagnostic system.....and to read the CUCV Forum WiKi page, download the Tech Manuals and read the wiring diagrams......hmmmm

So I go to the CUCV Forum CUCV - Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite ,

open the CUCV FAQ Wiki Cucv - Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite

and download the -34 manual http://old.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?module=pagesetter&type=file&func=get&tid=1&fid=file&pid=10

I then look at the wiring diagram for the Diagnostic System.

What am I looking for???? I know the card is by the diagnostic port and is in a blackbox that has 7 wires coming out of it. I wonder what the wire colors are?

Lets see, brown, black, black, purple, blank, dark green, tan and light green.

Now the user told me it might be the Resistor Board or the Tach Buffer Module.
The Resistor Board has 13 wires in it so that can't be it.

How about the Tach Buffer Module? I see the wire colors: brown, black, black purple, dk green, tan and lt green. Wow I think I found the part. The guy must have known what he was talking about!!!

-------------------------------------------------------

Your burnt card is the Tach Buffer Module and is used with the STE/ICE Diagnostic system. It is not part of the glowplug system. You do have an issue as to why it fried and you need to see where the short is but that is another issue.

Members of this board are more than happy to help with issues, but when the poster asks the question multiple times in different posts and then doesn't accept/listen to the info provided, that causes problems.

I will agree that some posts/answers are garbage, but when you have someone that takes the time to try and make the asnwer as clear or detailed as possible. you need to listen, and learn until you can become an expert.

Good luck with changing out your Glowplug system to a manual switch

 

[Ken_86gt]

Since your truck wiring already seems to be altered I would probably just go with a push button and avoid the controller. Since you actually have the 24v glow plugs and not the standard 12v ones, the circuit need to look something like this- 24v to the relay on the firewall, then to the glow plugs. Use 12v on your push button to make the relay and you are done.

 

[dstang97]

he has 12v ones, he just thinks there 24v, he copied the link

what you need to do is verify your glow plugs are actually good
convert to push button
test resistor or by pass
Its that simple

 

[Alucard-HD]

Ok, first i didnt mean to repeat a post, i asked a different question on this post and it all fell back to my original post. But since there was more then responses on this post i'll use the info givin to me....Thanks for your time...

 

[John Tate]

You'll find a glow plug schematic for '86 vintage 6.2 at this site
http://home.earthlink.net/~davehatz/LL4%20Glow%20Plug.jpg

 

[doghead]

Unfortunately, the link above is for a civilian vehicles. The CUCV, is different. The -20 and -34 TMs has the schematic(as pointed out earlier in this thread)

 

[John Tate]

For info of all, I had a curious problem with my M1008: started well when cold or immediately (up to 20 min) when hot; but when warm (off for 3/4 - 2 hrs) simply would not start (glow plugs would not come on). (If it did start, blew smoke for 10 minutes.) Tried lots of diagnosis (verified glow plugs & voltage, "cooled" injector pump, etc.), no progress. Then, unplugged the wires from the "glow plug inhibitor switch" (or block heat sensor), and IMMEDIATELY the glow plugs activated and "The Green Hornet" fired up perfectly. Now, see the schematic at link in prior post - I'm going to put a manual switch on the wires to the heat sensor so as to open the circuit when the block is still warm but not hot or cold. That's $1 vice lots more.