• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Engine modifications - bottom end

kapnklug

Member
232
2
18
Location
spencer,ny
Ya I replaced the balancer on my 1009 pre-emptively, wasn't too bad except for the key breaking off in the end of the crank, and having to make a tool out of angle channel that bolts to the balancer, so you can apply the 200 ft-lbs on the crank bolt. Space is tight to the radiator, lookout you don't backhand it with the breaker bar!
 

aaron1009

New member
52
0
0
Location
Birmingham, AL
You're thinking in gas engine terms, which is totally different. A diesel has no buttlerflies to regulate air flow which why they pull no vacuum. A diesel pulls as much as air in at idle as a lot of gas engine do at WOT. Turning up the fuel is the only way to increase power.
I follow you, but I guess I still don't follow how turning up the fuel on a non-turbo diesel will raise EGT temps. Is it due to the extra power being made? At what point does the engine see diminishing returns on adding fuel? The point where it falls apart? The point where volumetric efficiency falls flat?:confused:


Sorry to derail the thread :x
 

ken

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,479
24
38
Location
Houston Texas
Aaron, "turning up the fuel rate" or adding more fuel will cause more fuel to burn therefore more heat. And higher Exaust Gas Temp. Having a turbo or not won't change that. A turbo will push more air through and in some cases keep the temps lower just because more air is present. Adding fuel is adding BTU's or more work produced. Turing the screw 1/8 turn will give you some seat of the pant's accleration. But the 6.2 is very choked down. More air is needed for a big power increase.
 

aaron1009

New member
52
0
0
Location
Birmingham, AL
Aaron, "turning up the fuel rate" or adding more fuel will cause more fuel to burn therefore more heat. And higher Exaust Gas Temp. Having a turbo or not won't change that. Adding fuel is adding BTU's or more work produced.
Thanks, Ken. This makes sense. It's just that I'm used to the idea that (on gasoline) turbo charged engines, when you run lean you see higher EGTs. If you add fuel, it soaks up some of the heat during the exhaust stroke, leading to lower EGTs. You answered my question completely. I think the problem I'm having is that I'm assuming you could make a diesel run rich. More fuel will always be consumed at such high compressions, thus always leading to higher EGTs.

Sound about right?
 

motormayhem

Member
609
6
18
Location
Tucson, AZ
Thanks, Ken. This makes sense. It's just that I'm used to the idea that (on gasoline) turbo charged engines, when you run lean you see higher EGTs. If you add fuel, it soaks up some of the heat during the exhaust stroke, leading to lower EGTs. You answered my question completely. I think the problem I'm having is that I'm assuming you could make a diesel run rich. More fuel will always be consumed at such high compressions, thus always leading to higher EGTs.

Sound about right?
In a diesel more fuel = more fuel burned so more heat. In a gas you hit a point here there is more fuel to burn than the butterfly valves will allow air to burn so it only can burn a portion of the fuel and becomes inefficient and cools down sicnce it isn't burning all the fuel ( think of it as a fire with a limited oxy supply) a diesel is more like just dumping gas on a campfire with as much oxy as it needs to burn. Not sure on the turbo stuff but I heard that it runs cooler with a turbo becuse it is forcing more air into the cylinders causing the fuel to air ratio to become normal again as there is more air AND fuel and not just more fuel.
 

aaron1009

New member
52
0
0
Location
Birmingham, AL
In a diesel more fuel = more fuel burned so more heat. In a gas you hit a point here there is more fuel to burn than the butterfly valves will allow air to burn so it only can burn a portion of the fuel and becomes inefficient and cools down sicnce it isn't burning all the fuel ( think of it as a fire with a limited oxy supply) a diesel is more like just dumping gas on a campfire with as much oxy as it needs to burn. Not sure on the turbo stuff but I heard that it runs cooler with a turbo becuse it is forcing more air into the cylinders causing the fuel to air ratio to become normal again as there is more air AND fuel and not just more fuel.
Thanks guys, makes complete sense now!
 

Tanner

Active member
1,013
11
38
Location
Raleigh, NC
Hey guys,
My oil pan leaks quite a bit, so I'll be pulling it off to put on a new gasket this summer. What else should I do while I've got the oil out and the pan off? I've got some ideas, please let me know what you think about them (possible/worth it?) and maybe add some of your own ideas. Thanks.

1. Mechanical oil pressure gauge tapped into low oil pressure sensor (passenger side behind engine)

2. Main bearing web reinforcement kit - STUD GIRDLE KIT

3. Main bearing seals? mine don't leak yet..

4. Main bearings? can I replace them without pulling the crank?

5. Oil pump + pickup tube. Higher flowing?
Red -

You could install the Stud Girdle kit to ease your mind, but the GM block will eventually crack. 85% of the core 6.X blocks we saw when I was working for a major engine remanufacturer were cracked, typically in the main journal web areas... fact of life that the older blocks will eventually crack.

'Tanner'
 

stump

New member
66
2
0
Location
Henderson nc
if you give it more fuel give it more air. the best mod I did was to cut a hole in the air filter housing the same size as the one already their. Just letting in more air realy made a big difference. No turbo no air hose just a window to let more air in.
 

BIG_RED

New member
385
0
0
Location
Winnipeg, Manitoba
Red -

You could install the Stud Girdle kit to ease your mind, but the GM block will eventually crack. 85% of the core 6.X blocks we saw when I was working for a major engine remanufacturer were cracked, typically in the main journal web areas... fact of life that the older blocks will eventually crack.

'Tanner'
Yeah, I kinda figured as much. Thanks for the reality check.
I've read that even after these blocks develop cracks, sometimes they still go quite a few more miles before they bite the dust.. Is this true? Kinda curious if I find hairline cracks on my 6.2, should go looking for a junkyard 350 right away?
 
Last edited:

BIG_RED

New member
385
0
0
Location
Winnipeg, Manitoba
i bought a brand new Dorman balancer for 80 out the door... it looked solid enough and has since cured a ton of my problems on the truck.
What kind of problems did it solve? just out of interest..


Thanks for the responses everyone. Looks like I'm replacing my balancer this summer.

Aaron, I don't really understand the science behind it - but with a Naturally aspirated Diesel, more fuel = More heat (+ slightly more power). If your exhaust gets too hot, you can melt (deform) a piston. For me, that'd be the end of the engine.
 
Last edited:
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks