Alternator woes...

[Mister Sunday]

They suck more crank horsepower due to less efficient regulation. Total power output (horsepower/watts) and efficiency (kinetic or heat energy used vs. power generated) are not the same thing.

That's why you don't see them used on all cars. to keep MPG ratings up, automakers do everything they can to unload engine accessories. Computer regulated charging is one of those things. Digitally monitored and controlled alternators are far more efficient than simpler, cheaper analogue units, whether internally or externally regulated


As far as use on your truck, you really need to run two of them. The 60 amp 28v alternator you have has a peak output of 1,680 Watts. The 65 amp 14v one wire has a peak output of 910 watts, slightly more than half. It won't be able to keep up under heavy electrical load.

Yeah. Uhh, I don't know where you got the 14v from I have always been talking about a 24v system.

 

[Hunter2506]

Yeah. Uhh, I don't know where you got the 14v from I have always been talking about a 24v system.

The GM 1-wire 65 amp 12v (14v output) self-energizing alternator is, by a HUGE margin, the most often used alternator when going away from OEM.

You said one-wire, I made the reasonable assumption that you meant that unit.

If there's a 24v 60 amp internally regulated single wire unit out there, I'm unaware of it, and so is google. The 40 amp units have barely higher output than the 12v GM alternator.

Also, you mentioned wanting to use Optima Batteries. I suggest not. They don't have the amp output or the reserve of the big square commercial batteries, nor do they last as long (3-4 years is typically it). They're great for applications in which a battery will get jarred (drag racing, rock crawling, etc), which can cause the plates to short in a normal lead-acid battery. But they do not perform as well under everyday use. If they did, I'd be running them. Instead, I pay just as much for a top quality conventional battery in the form of Interstate green tops.

The longer one is in the business of fixing vehicles, the more one realizes that A) the engineers/designers know more about this stuff than we do , B) increased performance comes at the cost of reliability and C) alot of aftermarket parts do not work as well as advertised. Thoughtful consideration before modifying and careful matching of components are virtues of those of us who've been there and done that. The ones who benefit most are the people who listen to the veterans who wasted alot of time and money learning the hard way.

 

[Mister Sunday]

The alternator I found was a 24v 70 amp Delco unit. As far as the rest of your last post, I don't know enough about all that to argue with you. But I'm learnin'!

 

[Hunter2506]

The alternator I found was a 24v 70 amp Delco unit.

Where'd ya find it? The only ones I know of are 50's (40 amp actual output). The higher output units usually require an external regulator.

That'd be worth looking into, for sure. Delco is good stuff (and that's coming from a Mopar guy)

 

[Mister Sunday]

Where'd ya find it? The only ones I know of are 50's (40 amp actual output). The higher output units usually require an external regulator.

That'd be worth looking into, for sure. Delco is good stuff (and that's coming from a Mopar guy)

eBay

 

[mckeeranger]

What is the reading at idle?
Does the voltmeter decide whether it is reading ac or dc on its own?

When the diodes go out it will cause the alternator to put out AC instead of DC. The diodes usually go out when you run the engine without a battery. If you jumpstart it and don't turn the main power off before disconnecting the jumper cables when there is no battery or a very dead battery or a battery with a open cell it will also fry your diode pack.

OK, now you tell me. I think I just did that.

If it is the diode pack they are relatively cheep. I would recommend replacing the brushes also as they are also cheep.

Do you know of a good supplier?