Tap Broken off in M1009 front yoke

[Barrman]

The front drive shaft was in the back seat when I picked up the M1009. The caps were gone from the u-joint as well. I figured it had a bad u-joint and whatever agency had it just didn't fix it. I checked out the pinion yoke and it moved and felt fine. Dirt packed into the threads, but that shouldn't be a problem.

I collected the proper u-joint, tie down straps and bolts. I crawled under the truck and used a pick to get most of the crud out. Some of it wouldn't even move out with a pick. Penetrating oil and lube were sprayed in and a tap was run through to make the threads work.

All went well getting the threads clean on the first pair of holes. I was running the tap in on the third when it snapped off. Off comes the yoke.

I have tried heat, little punches, drilling, big punches, just about any combination of things to get the tap out and no luck. Anybody have any suggestions?

I think there are actually two broken off taps in there. Because the distance taken up is longer than my tap was and the one all the way in looks dirty while mine was clean. That means I have a pair basically jammed together or "lock nutted" together. At least I know why they didn't fix it before.

 

[Recovry4x4]

When I was in the exhaust business, we would sometimes experience the same thing. The only was we were successful at removing them was blowing them out with a torch. It's a skill that isn't as easy as it looks. A few of the guys I worked with could blow them out and leave nearly every thread. At this point I'd lean towards a new yoke. Try contacting Walker Automotive in Hesperia CA. They have been parting out brand new front axles for some time, might save you a buck or two.

 

[cessnatwin]

Kenny, That is exactly what I was going to say! Im in the automotive business and that is all we ever find that sometimes work!

 

[armytruck63]

I just wanted to say what a good guy Dave Walker in Hesperia is to do business with. It runs in the family - his son just fixed my POV and saved me over $3k.

 

[Recovry4x4]

I'm not a metalurgist at all but would heating the taps relieve some of the hardening and makke them less brittle? Never tried welding a nut to one before.

 

[Crash_AF]

It comes down to a cost vs time equation at this point... how much is your time worth vs the cost of a new/used yoke? Call a local axle shop and see what they charge for a yoke, might be cheaper than shipping one to TX.

Later,
Joe

 

[watkinssr]

Have tried taking the yoke to an automotive machine shop? Don't know if there's anybody in austin that can do it, but there are a couple of places here in Fort Worth that can fix such things. They actualy make trap extractors for this very thing, and the more advanced shops have equipment to burn the tap out without damaging the yoke.

 

[K9Vic]

Have tried taking the yoke to an automotive machine shop? Don't know if there's anybody in austin that can do it, but there are a couple of places here in Fort Worth that can fix such things. They actualy make trap extractors for this very thing, and the more advanced shops have equipment to burn the tap out without damaging the yoke.

Home Page -> American Drive Train Repair

I just had my drive shaft in my M1009 rebuild there, very fast service and I am sure they can tap out the yoke and then put new u-joins on it.

 

[watkinssr]

Home Page -> American Drive Train Repair

I just had my drive shaft in my M1009 rebuild there, very fast service and I am sure they can tap out the yoke and then put new u-joins on it.

The OP is down near Austin, I believe. Would be a bit of a drive. Not sure who is down there.

Automotive Machine and Supply off of 7th is who I would take it to here to get a tap out.

 

[Barrman]

I tried the stick a torch in the hole, wait until everything is a cherry red and then hit the O2 method. Several times from both ends. When that didn't work, I got a bigger punch and a bigger hammer thinking the threads would have weakend at least some and let me drive the things out. Maybe I should try a bigger, bigger hammer. Actaully, I was thinking of heating it up and putting it in the press as the next step. Something will move eventually.

The hurrican isn't coming to my part of the state, but the rain bands are. That means I want the truck buttoned up and ready to drive. So, I put the yoke back on and will get back to it in a few days once the storm is gone.

I have already found a replacement I think from a fellow member. I will know once he looks through his stash of spares.

Austin is an hour away and a world away as far as me going there. The only times I go to that town is for LSMVPA reasons or maybe 5 days a year my work sends me there. I am a stranger in a strange land over in that town.

Thanks for all the helpful suggestions everybody.

 

[Wintermute]

can you remove the yolk with the tap in it? If so, soak it in some Ferric Chloride (available from Fry's electronics or other suppliers). It's an acid, so be careful. But it will eat out the tool steel of the tap without damaging the carbon steel.

--Wintermute

 

[ken]

You'll need a 1/4 inch center cutting carbide end mill. Turning in a dril press or even better a milling machine. At less than a 100 RPM's while soaking it with cutting oil. And take small pecks at it. If you cut too much at one time. The flutes will fill up with chips and break the endmill. If you have a machine shop supply around. You can get a tap extractor. It's a small tool with fingers that fit into the flutes of the tap. Then sometimes you can back the tap out. This usally has a 30% sucess rate with me.

 

[Warthog]

Or he can have me ship him a spare one in a flatrate box. Alot easier and cheaper. Then he can take his time on figuring it out.

Oh and the seatbelt is a go......

 

[Barrman]

Cool. Thanks for advice Ken and the part Joe.

 

[transman]

ten bucks and Ups I'll send as many as you think you may need .Got literaly a pile of "ten bolt"gm used yokes. transman@frontiernet.net

 

[91W350]

ten bucks and Ups I'll send as many as you think you may need .Got literaly a pile of "ten bolt"gm used yokes. transman@frontiernet.net

I was going to say my buddy is about to crush some ten bolts. I am sure a yoke would be an easy thing to take and probably would cost less than shipping in iron prices. Sounds like they have you covered, if not, I think there is a 4x4 Suburban out there waiting for the hammer to drop. Glen

 

[akonitony]

Have you ever seen a front driveline take off when either the u-joint or yolk breaks? I don't think I would trust that old yoke any further than I could throw the axle it goes to. If you've already heated it to cherry red, it will more than likely be the first thing to break when you need it the most. Like the two gentlemen before me said, get a new or decent used yolk and be done with it. Otherwise you are only creating a timebomb.
You might want to contact Florida Power Train and Hydraulics, floridapowertrain.com, and see about an upgrade while you're at it. They carry a full line of genuine Spicer parts, and they sell them at wholesale prices. If you do use them, remind them not to charge you sales tax since you are out of state. Get a nice 1350 series yolk and a hybrid u-joint and when you can afford to upgrade that front drive line, the yolk will be good to go. This would need to be done anyway if you ever plan on lifting that puppy.
Don't:

 

[gimpyrobb]

Tim tim tim. Its PLASMA TIME! Now you have yet another reason to buy a plasma cutter. The writings on the wall bud.

 

[Stalwart]

NOT plasma, pay to have it removed with an EDM Machine. Electrical discharge machining - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Try a place like this : http://www.brokentap.com/

 

[wldrbob]

if its the last part in existence then fool with it if not use it as a door stop or some thing and just get a new one