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Front axle problem
- Thread starter CROM
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CROM
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Anyone out there have a part number for the hub wrench? I have j-6893-d out of the manual, but can't find it anywhere...
akonitony
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They are 6 lug with 3.08:1 gear ratio. The axles are both 10-bolt corporate-design with a gov-loc in the rear for posi-traction.
I am wondering how hot that side got if the slider pin heads both broke off and yet they unscrewed using adjustable pliers - that's just plain wierd.
CROM
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Channel locks, a soak in MEK and a blow torch...
akonitony
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Just look for the 1/2-ton 4-prong spindle nut socket at your local part store. Which store are you using?
If you want to do it the redneck way, you can try using the tip of an old flat tip screwdriver and a small hammer (Noticed I said small hammer). Just tap the hammer against the end of the screwdriver handle with the tip of the screwdriver blade up against the edge of one of the slots on the spindle nut so it will rotate in a counter-clockwise rotation. Do like 3 taps, then go to the slot directly accross from it and do another 3 taps, then alternate back and forth until she comes loose. Keep the taps light and alternating so you don't ruin the spindle nut. The inner nut should not be very tight, although if you melted a bearing, there is no telling what you will find.
When you go to put the hubs back together, remember bearings are better to be a little loose than too tight.
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akonitony
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Er, I wouldn't get happy quite yet there little brother, you have yet to finger out the problem-o...Channel locks, a soak in MEK and a blow torch...
If you ate a roller cage up, chances are you will need not only the bearings, but hub and spindle as well. I might have an extra set on hand from one of my M1009s I converted to a true 3/4-ton with the drivetrain of a '78 K20. Matter of fact, I believe I still have the whole axle minus the locking hubs, but let's see what the diagnosis turns out to be. I am still leaning toward the brake caliper, mainly because those slider pin heads shouldn't have broke off that easily, unless they were crystallized from overheating, which I guess a meltdown in the hub could do as well...
CROM
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Alright...I'm stuck. Can't get the rotor off, and the manual is pretty vague...here's a pic of how far I am. I have a the four prong socket, but it won't fit. I'm obviously doing something wrong/missing a step. Help??
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Deuce_and_a_Half_Dragon
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Haven't had a chance to read all these posts, battery is dying. But have you crawled under and attempt to move the front driveshaft fore and aft? If it moves allot and flatters and rattles, you may have done what I did to my bronco's rear and lost the pinion bearing, did you hear any grinding when you tried to move right after you locked up?
CROM
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Bah...found a retaining ring i didn't see earlier...i've complete removing the hub, now
CROM
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The drive shaft doesn't seem overly loose....i did hear grinding when i drove, but pretty sure it's from the bum wheel bearing...we'll find out in a few minutes when i finally get a look at the thing.
Chieftawny
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Depending on the parts you need, I wouldn't spend alot of money on parts. You can get those axles brand new for under 300.
rhinob
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Be sure to check your brake hose. They can deteriorate and collapse internally. Applying them, the fluid flows through. Release the brake pedal and the pressure can remain causing the brake to drag, heat, grab more, etc.
Not sure if this was mentioned, just wanted to be sure you didn't overlook it. And don't trust the external condition. That may not matter at all. (hard lesson learned).
Not sure if this was mentioned, just wanted to be sure you didn't overlook it. And don't trust the external condition. That may not matter at all. (hard lesson learned).
CROM
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The culprit! At least so far. Inside wheel bearing...or what's left of it. The axle looks ok, but I'll post pics tomorrow and see what you guys think after i get it cleaned off. I plan on checking the other wheel bearings, brake lines and a list of other things you fine gentlemen have suggested.
Thank you all so much for the help! You guys are awesome.
Last thing on my list is to try and get a new tire out of the tire guy....stopping at 55mph gave my 4 day old tires a premature bald spot
Thank you all so much for the help! You guys are awesome.
Last thing on my list is to try and get a new tire out of the tire guy....stopping at 55mph gave my 4 day old tires a premature bald spot
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Chieftawny
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Looks good. Repack 'em and reinstall! Nice work finding the problem.
airmech3839
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There you go!! Little cleaning in the parts washer and re pack and be good as new!!
so how high did the "bearing pool" get.. and who does the bookey have to pay???
Well this has been an informative thread especially for the guys who have yet to have this happen.
I have pulled bearings of of private jets that had cracked cages and did not have a "failure". Just noticed the crack while cleaning..... You never know how much is riding on your bearings till it stops riding!!
so how high did the "bearing pool" get.. and who does the bookey have to pay???
Well this has been an informative thread especially for the guys who have yet to have this happen.
I have pulled bearings of of private jets that had cracked cages and did not have a "failure". Just noticed the crack while cleaning..... You never know how much is riding on your bearings till it stops riding!!
Bobert
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Wow, that makes me want to go out and grease my hubs.
akonitony
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It's not a bald spot! It's a solar panel for a sex machine! Oh, wait, you're talking about a tire... nevermind.Last thing on my list is to try and get a new tire out of the tire guy....stopping at 55mph gave my 4 day old tires a premature bald spot
akonitony
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It looks like you might have been fortunate enough to be able to reuse the spindle and hub if that is grease I see on the rollers still. I had one melt on one of my first 3/4-ton trucks once that not only spun the race and ruined the hub, but also gouged up the spindle so it had to be replaced. I paid an arm and a leg and they wanted more, but I refused, when I bought the parts from the local 4x4 shop. Then I found Florida Power Train and Hydraulics. The next spindle I bought, which was for a conversion, was $60 compared to $150, and it was about the same price difference for the hub as well.
Anyway, once you get the spindle cleaned up, you'll notice there are rough parts and smooth parts on it where the bearings sit. They don't need to be absolutely perfect, but they can't have any major flaws in them either. The main thing you want to inspect for are any cracks. As far as the hubs go, you will be replacing the races, which is where the roller bearings come into contact with their mating surface. Check to make sure the old race did not spin in the hub at all. If it comes out really easy, chances are it might have spun, and the hub should be replaced.
You can used a drift or even a piece of 1/2" rebar about a foot long to knock them out from the opposite way the go in. When you go to drive them in, you should use a race driver, and no, this is not one like Dale Earnhardt, and if you can't lay hands on one at your auto parts store, you can use the old race and turn it backwards, then find a small block of 2x4 or something like that to knock it in far enough to get it started. Then you can catch the edges and go in a a triangle kind of pattern with a drift or that piece of rebar and gently get it seated.
The metal the race is made of is hardened, so it can take a little abuse, but you still need to be careful with it if you can't get hold of a race-driver, and have to use the backwoods method. Hold whatever you are using to drive it in by the edges up hard against the wall of the hub to avoid letting the piece slip and possibly scratch the race surface. The main thing is to make sure the race is seated all the way to the little edge it has to back up against. I had pulled the hubs on one of my M1008's Dana 60 front end earlier this summer when I was rebuilding the complete axle, and found both sides had the inner race not properly seated by GI Joe (or maybe it was Jane?). I had felt a slight vibration at different speeds, and this is where it was coming from. Anyway, hope this helps and makes up for a long-distance mis-diagnosis-guesstimate as to if it was brakes or bearings. Dang it... I was almost going to change my bet to the bearing as well, but I learned in school to never change your answer on a test unless you were 100% sure of it, which I was not.
So how much was in the pot?
Anyway, once you get the spindle cleaned up, you'll notice there are rough parts and smooth parts on it where the bearings sit. They don't need to be absolutely perfect, but they can't have any major flaws in them either. The main thing you want to inspect for are any cracks. As far as the hubs go, you will be replacing the races, which is where the roller bearings come into contact with their mating surface. Check to make sure the old race did not spin in the hub at all. If it comes out really easy, chances are it might have spun, and the hub should be replaced.
You can used a drift or even a piece of 1/2" rebar about a foot long to knock them out from the opposite way the go in. When you go to drive them in, you should use a race driver, and no, this is not one like Dale Earnhardt, and if you can't lay hands on one at your auto parts store, you can use the old race and turn it backwards, then find a small block of 2x4 or something like that to knock it in far enough to get it started. Then you can catch the edges and go in a a triangle kind of pattern with a drift or that piece of rebar and gently get it seated.
The metal the race is made of is hardened, so it can take a little abuse, but you still need to be careful with it if you can't get hold of a race-driver, and have to use the backwoods method. Hold whatever you are using to drive it in by the edges up hard against the wall of the hub to avoid letting the piece slip and possibly scratch the race surface. The main thing is to make sure the race is seated all the way to the little edge it has to back up against. I had pulled the hubs on one of my M1008's Dana 60 front end earlier this summer when I was rebuilding the complete axle, and found both sides had the inner race not properly seated by GI Joe (or maybe it was Jane?). I had felt a slight vibration at different speeds, and this is where it was coming from. Anyway, hope this helps and makes up for a long-distance mis-diagnosis-guesstimate as to if it was brakes or bearings. Dang it... I was almost going to change my bet to the bearing as well, but I learned in school to never change your answer on a test unless you were 100% sure of it, which I was not.
So how much was in the pot?
akonitony
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Before I go to bed here, and maybe even get lucky if the wife anit asleep yet (yeah righht), I figure I would run this past you. I have a complete front end out of one of my M1009s I converted to a true 3/4-ton using the axles out of a '78 K20, and it is sitting there gathering dust. It is complete except for the locking hubs, but rotors, bearings, hubs and everything else is there in case you are interested. I might be heading up to Ohio soon to pick up some hard tops for my deuces if the bidding will stay below $500 for a couple of them, so maybe I could drop it off for you for say $200 plus a little something for the diesel. It's up to you, and don't feel like I am really wanting to sell this piece, as my wife will attest, I should be on that hoarding TV show, except my problem is auto parts. It's just that you never know when you might need that particular part. I was actually thinking of putting them under an old 1987 Nissan 300ZX I have sitting behind the chicken pen, and making it into a little Nissan 300ZX4x4. Anyway, if you find you are stuck and buying the complete front axle would be money-wise as compared to individual parts, just holler. (Actually, squeal, like a pig...)
Milkman357
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repak
BOBERT, I got the wrench. You should repake em before winter. I want your CUCV available when I get stuck in a snow bank!
I had the same problem.... wheel bearing go bad... But mine didn't lock up like yours did. My guess the bearing went bad while you were 4 wheeling, but you didnt notice the shuder at that time. Then it got so hot it welded and locked up...
Welcome to Steel Soldiers! You interested in going mud / dirt roading in southern Iowa? Or when the big snow storms hit this Winter Bobert and I are heading out to clear snow drifts without plows!
I had to replace the whole hub assembly when mine went.... so your doing good! I went with parts from a junk yard.... + new bearings and races...
I would suggest getting both your driveshafts rebuilt and have them balanced when money allows. Out of balance driveshafts on these CUCVs are almost guaranteed, if you got yours from Uncle Sam.
Clean out your CDR valve, if it goes bad at the very least your gonna blow oil seals. Worst case you blow up cylinder heads.
Keep your powder dry!
BOBERT, I got the wrench. You should repake em before winter. I want your CUCV available when I get stuck in a snow bank!
I had the same problem.... wheel bearing go bad... But mine didn't lock up like yours did. My guess the bearing went bad while you were 4 wheeling, but you didnt notice the shuder at that time. Then it got so hot it welded and locked up...
Welcome to Steel Soldiers! You interested in going mud / dirt roading in southern Iowa? Or when the big snow storms hit this Winter Bobert and I are heading out to clear snow drifts without plows!
I had to replace the whole hub assembly when mine went.... so your doing good! I went with parts from a junk yard.... + new bearings and races...
I would suggest getting both your driveshafts rebuilt and have them balanced when money allows. Out of balance driveshafts on these CUCVs are almost guaranteed, if you got yours from Uncle Sam.
Clean out your CDR valve, if it goes bad at the very least your gonna blow oil seals. Worst case you blow up cylinder heads.
Keep your powder dry!