Keyed Ignition

[asgtoolman]

I just went to the"ZONE" and picked up a Dorman #86913 brass starter switch for $14.99 +tax that does work [on the bench with a continuity tester] It is a 3 position switch with battery, ignition, solenoid. Connect one wire to the battery and one to the solenoid and you only get power when you are turning the key against the spring pressure, as soon as you release there is no power to the starter solenoid, so no grinding. IF IF IF you want a way to control some other small accessory you have added, you could hook it to the ignition terminal and you would be sure it was disconnected when you removed your key.
I had used a Dorman #85936 on my mule that only cost 8.99 but it is not all brass like this one, so I sprung for the extra 6 bucks this time.
There should be no reason to have ANY wire going to a ground for what you are trying to do.
HOPE ALL THIS HELPS!

 

[TheDoubleDeuce]

Hmm, I just called the local store here and they said that number brings up some brake rotors, but no starter switch. maybe I'll go in there and have a look at the switches. I know they didn't have any two-wire switches, but I think they did have a three-wire brass switch - might be the one you're talking about.

The problem is, when I hook my wires up to ignition and the unmarked center post, I get the same behavior you describe when in the "on" position - no power to the ignition terminal. Logistically it's set up correctly, but it's the completion of the circuit BETWEEN off/on/crank that screws it up.

Let me know if you get it hooked up and it works like a charm. It's worth 15 bucks to have a normal switch.

Thanks!

 

[m816Buch]

Napa part # ks6180 4wire, acc/off/on/start
sw15 3wire, off/ign/ign,start
sw27 4wire, acc/off/ign,acc/ign,start
all switches are brass.........sw switches can handle 24 volts
probably a little heavier than what you are buying

 

[asgtoolman]

It would be my thought that for any switch to work as you want it to, it should have a terminal labeled solenoid; that would indicate that it "knows" you only want a momentary connection to spin the starter.
In looking at my invoice from the ZONE it has the following number when they scanned the barcode on the switch #767912 86913Z Maybe that will help somehow
I just made my purchase at store #0453 Florence SC, but they may be closed now since it is after 6:00 on Sunday here. Maybe your store has a way of talking with them if these additional numbers don't work.

 

[TheDoubleDeuce]

All I can really find on their site is the 4-terminal Dorman brass starter switch. None of those numbers cross-reference a starter switch that I can see. There's a Napa a little further down the road; I'll check that out like Buch suggested. Thanks!

 

[tm america]

The problem with doing it the way you did is that some kids playing in the truck can leave the lights or ignition switch on and kill your batteries...I installed my ignition switch in the number 10 wire coming from the starter relay to the ignition switch ..this way when i turn the power off it shuts off the heater,head lights buzzer and starter button.. then is no draw when switch is off and no more dead batteries from people playing in the truck.All other switches stay the same with my setup .i used a heavy duty switch even though you are only cutting a small guage wire that can,t have much of a draw...

 

[TheDoubleDeuce]

The problem with doing it the way you did is that some kids playing in the truck can leave the lights or ignition switch on and kill your batteries...I installed my ignition switch in the number 10 wire coming from the starter relay to the ignition switch ..this way when i turn the power off it shuts off the heater,head lights buzzer and starter button.. then is no draw when switch is off and no more dead batteries from people playing in the truck.All other switches stay the same with my setup .i used a heavy duty switch even though you are only cutting a small guage wire that can,t have much of a draw...

That's a very good point; my primary concern was security - the truck is stored on an air force base, so I suppose it should be pretty secure, but the battery is a new issue. I was hoping to install a knife-switch quick disconnect on the (positive side?) of the battery coming in to the truck, so I could know for certain that there were no shorts in the system that could drain the battery. It would also be convenient for working on the truck when dealing with the electrical system. As I said earlier, I'm not much of an electrician, so I don't really want to dive in to all those wires heading up to the accessory switch. If it's relatively easy to get to the number 10 wire (and it's clearly labeled) I might give it a shot - if not, I'll stick with the disconnects.

 

[tm america]

yes the number ten wire goes to the bottom front terminal on the starter relay .it has a metal tag on it that says 10...this a easy-cheap way to kill the power on a deuce without having to buy a switch that is rated at 1000 amps...i didn't even cut the wire itself.I unbolted it from the relay and used a terminal and a blot to connect it to the wire that i ran to the switch. Then the wire from the switch has a terminal that hooks to the relay....That way if my switch ever fails i can just hook it up like factory and still get home .. everything is taped and zip tied so no chance of shorts either

 

[dittle]

Put the disconnect on the negative side instead of the positive side.

 

[TheDoubleDeuce]

Put the disconnect on the negative side instead of the positive side.

Roger that; thanks.

 

[number9]

Great timing on this thread. I found my Duece yesterday having the Master switch in the ON position and dead batteries. Haven't seen it since the first of Oct, so for sure someone has been in it playing around. When we got it started my Father-in-law pulled it out and ran over my wheel chock that was chained to the pioneer rack - now I got a mangled rack to replace out of the deal too

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[asgtoolman]

Great timing on this thread. I found my Duece yesterday having the Master switch in the ON position and dead batteries. Haven't seen it since the first of Oct, so for sure someone has been in it playing around. When we got it started my Father-in-law pulled it out and ran over my wheel chock that was chained to the pioneer rack - now I got a mangled rack to replace out of the deal too


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MOMMA SAID THERE'D BE DAYS LIKE THIS-THERE'D BE DAYS LIKE THIS MY MOMMA SAID, MOMMA SAID-----or however the song goes!!

 

[Motorcar]

I replaced my push button for a key start switch so I could drive it to Sonic, Target, work etc. Carquest Auto had a nice switch but I evetually went with a 3 terminal marine grade key switch rated for 12-36 volts and it was made in the USA, not the chi-com crap from the "zone". Found it at the ACE hardware in the boating stuff. It has off-acc-start positions and works just like its supposed to, love it. Hot wire goes to "BAT" and outbound wire to "S", nifty. I also have a nice knife switch on the negative battery post for the off days, works good on locomotives too.

 

[number9]

Anyone know right off what size hole on the dash for the master switch and how deep the access is behind the dash in that spot? I'd like to just replace my master with a keyed switch I think.

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[asgtoolman]

Anyone know right off what size hole on the dash for the master switch and how deep the access is behind the dash in that spot? I'd like to just replace my master with a keyed switch I think.

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I was feeling around up under my dash today, trying to figure out if I really wanted to intercept the hot wire going to my master switch to add a keyed switch ahead of it. There is physical room up there but I be darned if I could see anything and didn't really want to tackle the project right now, if at all. I had not thought about putting the keyed switch up there; i was going to put mine where the starter button is and make the master hot when keyed switch is in ignition [on] position
Can't wait to read the replies to this topic;SHOULD be some very interesting ones

 

[TheDoubleDeuce]

What; the size of the hole and how deep it is? That really is all that matters, isn't it?

 

[steelandcanvas]

Anyone know right off what size hole on the dash for the master switch and how deep the access is behind the dash in that spot? I'd like to just replace my master with a keyed switch I think.

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I give up....

 

[asgtoolman]

What; the size of the hole and how deep it is? That really is all that matters, isn't it?

What REALLY matters is how big the item is you're trying to put in the hole;SIZE MATTERS!!!!

 

[number9]

I give up....

Care to explain your frustration with my post?

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[steelandcanvas]

Care to explain your frustration with my post?

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Nothing at all personal. Back in post #9, a Mod asked us to search some threads that already covered alot of questions about key switches. I was trying to respect his wishes and drop the thread, sorry if I ruffled any feathers. Probably should have explained myself a little better.