Yet another transmission replacement thread!

[steelandcanvas]

It was proven true for me when I had a new set of ny-locks work loose on a backhoe drive shaft at around 200 hours of use. I knew they were torqued properly, because I had done it myself. I learned my lesson and replaced them with the crimped steel lock nuts. It's been over 300 hours and they are still tight.

That's enough for me to use the crimped steel units. Thanks!

 

[General Mcgregor]

Ok before I post the pictures and tell you about todays progress, does anybody know the approx distance in degrees between the throwout bearing fork and the control lever at the end of the shaft?? I marked it this morning, then wiped it on accedent after I removed it. MARK GONE!

 

[General Mcgregor]

So today got off to a rocky start, I was up and outside bright and early removing the cover from the trans. After I removed it from the truck I went back into the cab to find that the chain I had bolted to the cover had dissapeared! Where the **** did it go??? I CHECKED EVERYWHERE! then decided it could only be in one place. I drained the gear oil from the trans and took a peek inside with a flashlight... yup it was at the bottom of the transmission underneath EVERYTHING! I literally had to FISH it out with my fishing pole and a 3 sided hook lure! That burned up about 15 mins... So then I started on the nuts and bolts on the main shaft, apparently they get on there pretty tight after a few thousand miles of high torque... As you can see by the pics, I had to use an old glasspack muffler as a makeshift torque multiplier just to get them loose. So that took about 45 mins and some of them ALMOST got stripped out. Next was the clutch and pto linkages, not too hard, the pins just pushed right out. And finally I started the removal of the bellhousing bolts, bottoms first then I made my way up. The one that gave me the most trouble was the short one behind the clutch lever. TOOK ME LIKE A HALF HOUR TO GET THAT ONE OUT!!! At this point shes redy to be dropped, a nice friendly tap with the mallot got her loose and now suspended from the hoist. This is where I ran into the majoraty of my problems. The weight of the pto offset the balance and she wanted to come down right on top of the front drive shaft. Then the pto got hung up on the plate beneath the brake master cylinder. And to top it all off the rear shaft flange got stuck on the support beneath the main shaft location. Now my transmission was like a pebble in a tire tread, wouldnt go up and wouldnt go down! Now this job was acting as a makeshift frustration multiplier!!!!! but with a few 'love taps' she finally came free and I lowered her down to the waiting cart beneath.... Now comes the switchover of the pto, throwout bearing and installation of the gasket set... Hopefully Monday!

 

[General Mcgregor]

Whats the deal? Is this thread not working guys????

 

[jwaller]

I swapped mine out today as well.

I finally found a good source for the 40wt oil, nobody but tractor supply had it in stock. 40wt nondetergent oil. bout $24 for a 2gal pail.

 

[Billy Bobbed]

I swapped mine out today as well.

I finally found a good source for the 40wt oil, nobody but tractor supply had it in stock. 40wt nondetergent oil. bout $24 for a 2gal pail.

You said 50wt now its 40wt your killing me.What is the fluid that goes in the trans.

 

[General Mcgregor]

You said 50wt now its 40wt your killing me.What is the fluid that goes in the trans.

??? ???

 

[Tinwoodsman]

NAPA has GL1 for $9.95 per gallon.

 

[wb1895]

Tractor Supply has GL-1 in two gallon jugs for $12.00. You have to look for the Traveler brand, Ford tractor 90 wt. The jug says it is for Ford tractors year models 1936 to 1956 or something like that.

 

[jwaller]

You said 50wt now its 40wt your killing me.What is the fluid that goes in the trans.

50wt is what you all should use, but I put a set of the super OD gears in mine and the mfg reccommends 40wt for my box bc it now has 2 roller bearings.

tractor supply has all of these oils in stock, sorry for the confusion.

 

[mckeeranger]

So, GM, how is it going?

General Mcgregor, how is the trans transplant going?

In my opinion, you will find it easier to put it back in with the PT drive shaft removed, and the front drive shaft loose at the transfer case. I don't mind the extra wrench turning, and I like the extra room. It sounds like some of the problems you had removing it would have been easier to deal with.

 

[General Mcgregor]

Hey mckeeranger, I started the install this morning and ran into some difficulty getting it lined up properly. It's still hanging from the hoist and the front of the input shaft is inside the clutch, but it wont go in further than the teeth. It's also really hard to keep it level with the weight of the pto, any tips?

 

[mckeeranger]

Hey mckeeranger, I started the install this morning and ran into some difficulty getting it lined up properly. It's still hanging from the hoist and the front of the input shaft is inside the clutch, but it wont go in further than the teeth. It's also really hard to keep it level with the weight of the pto, any tips?

I bought two 3" long bolts that match the size of the bell housing bolts, cut the heads off, and used them as alignment studs. Just be careful not to break them off in the engine bell housing, trying to get the transmission bell housing onto them.

 

[General Mcgregor]

After being 90% complete.... SNAFU! ! ! There is no way this is getting done today......

 

[General Mcgregor]

Here's the story; Today started out with everything going great, the pto was installed with little effort on the new trans. It was fairly warm outside and partly cloudy, not the best outdoor working conditions but it could have been worse. I positioned the trans under the truck started raising her up, it was alot easier going in then coming out. Soon it was hanging from the hoist with just the front of the input shaft inside the clutch, the trans was leaning to the drivers side about 10 degrees (because of the pto). It took alot of effort but I FINALLY got her to slide into place and I wasted no time getting the bolts back in. I installed the main shaft next, then reconnected the pto linkage. Next was the clut...c...h... l...i....n.....k OH CRAP!!!! Yeah you know that lever on the end of the throwout bearing control shaft? It was out of place by about 35 degrees.... F#&*!! There is not enough room to remove it with the trans in the truck, and I adjusted the linkage as far as I could to compensate but the pedal just went straight to the floor without any resistance.... So what do I do? I was not about to remove the trans again after all I went through to get it where it was, so I opted to take apart the throttle pedal assy. The 1/4 inch of clearance I got from that was just enough to take the lever off and re adjust. Now keep in mind, from the time I finished the pto linkage to the time I finished the clutch linkage was about 3 hours... IT TOOK FOREVER!! I'm still not done, I need to get gear oil tomorrow and fine tune the clutch freeplay as well.... File this under 'rookie mistakes' but I figure it can be a good example of what not to do.

 

[m-35tom]

i have to question how the lever could be off that much without something else causing it? have you removed the bottom cover and looked inside to be sure everything is in place? another tip on getting the trans to go into the clutch disk is to put the trans in gear so you can turn the input shaft by turning the output flange.

tom

 

[General Mcgregor]

i have to question how the lever could be off that much without something else causing it? have you removed the bottom cover and looked inside to be sure everything is in place? another tip on getting the trans to go into the clutch disk is to put the trans in gear so you can turn the input shaft by turning the output flange.

tom

The lever was off that much because the replacement trans didn't have one, I had to re-use the one that was on the junk one. I had marked it's position but accedentally wiped it off with a rag. I judged it's placement by the pics from beforehand.

 

[jwaller]

you will want to make sure your lever is turned as far clockwise as it can be and then remove the lever and reinstall it where it will then mate up to your pushrod from the pedal. you can be pretty far off and still be able to adjust it with the rod end. I think you have about an inch or 1.5 to play with.

 

[tiger422]

Don't feel alone I did the same thing with the clutch lever and what a pain to correct in the truck.
All will work out and you will have learned alot, that is what it is all about.
Don't forget to have fun.

 

[General Mcgregor]

Right now I have almost no pedal freeplay, how much should I have?