2" removable receivers

[atankersdad]

There are so many great ideas here. This one looks good too.

Here is one that no one has thought of yet:

How about mounting a "Prebuilt Frame Mount" to the frame? But the catch is using the "Lock and Pin" method. Kind of like the mounting system that you would use on a Plow setup or like what is used on a 3 point hitch.

This way all that you would need to do is pull the safety pins and off it comes. Just a thought. Not sure if it would be strong enough but I would imagine that they would be.

There is such a hitch. A member on here Recht71 built one that hooks in the pintle and mounts to the frame much like a 3 point hitch. The experts knocked his design too. I saw it when I was in Carlisle this summer with the guntrucks. He routinely tows his car trailer and M-37 with it. In fact I liked it so much that I had him build me one. You can install it in less than a minute. Mounting points are inside the frame rails. Do a search on this. JTONKA and plenty other who have seen this will swear by this as well.

 

[atankersdad]

Here is a picture of the hitch.

 

[AGE|kshaufl]

I think that this one is what you were referencing:

Pintle removeable Hitch

I Like the design. Kind of what I was thinking. I wonder if it has ever failed? Looks pretty sturdy and with the original hitch in place should never have a problem.

 

[AGE|kshaufl]

Do you think he would make me one and for what cost? I would be interested in it.

 

[atankersdad]

Do you think he would make me one and for what cost? I would be interested in it.

I will ask him. send me a pm as a reminder to get back to you. He has this on his deuce, the deuce has an LDS and an overdrive transmission. His deuce tows at 65-70 mph with ease.

 

[treeguy]

AGE, The hitch I whipped up IS like a 3 point hitch (4). Four pins bing, bang, boom done! A lot of guys here don't like to drill into their trucks or weld aftermarket stuff that takes away from the original and historic look of these vehicles. This was the #1 factor behind this design, there are only four holes to be drilled inconspicuously in the bottom of the frame to mount a triangle shackle mount, which in itself looks realy cool and could act as a ----------shackle mount. This itself almost looks to the untrained eye like factory.

 

[treeguy]

In regards to Joshuaz223 and AGE's posts I just wanted to share why I love this site and the tools in my garage. You can build something and ask for opinions and when you get feedback, you can go back out to your garage and make adjustments or additions. With a welder nothing is final. If Josh thinks that side loading is an issue than cut, cut, weld and paint! Its all fluid, thats why this is a hobby - for the fun! AND these are just my ideas, no one says thats IT, you can build what ever floats your boat, Recht71 also has a great design. Who knows what else is to come down the pipe.

 

[tm america]

The main thing i would do different with your design is i would make the vertical leggs solid to the cross bar.. I would weld them to it this would keep the cross bar from trying to roll under the loading and unloading of tongue weight.Also it would help keep things from rackin from side to side.But this is just what i would do ..I'm sure what you have is fine for pulling lighter trailers like it is ..the one i built is similar to rech71 but heavier duty .Here's some pics

 

[treeguy]

I have an improvement that I will incorporate into the next one. The only draw back is that if you are going to under mount a rear (electric?) winch, I haven't figured yet if the angled supports (new) might interfere, or not. I have also designed mine for the addition of a billion pound electric winch mounted to a 3/4" plate bolted to the under frame with the winch upside down. My verticals now allow for cable in or out, I'll check if the new V shape supports, (allong the same lines as you toung weight twisting of horiz. cross bar idea) will also allow clearance for cable. Thanks TM! Yours is cool and very stout may I add!

 

[treeguy]

Who needs bumperetts any way, they just get in the way right!

 

[tm america]

Who needs bumperetts any way, they just get in the way right!

i got rid of my bumperettes to make room for the pivot bar for my dump kit..I also moved my pintle down to clear it to ..This is the second disgn hitch i have put on my truck and i already want to sell it and make me a hydraulic wheel lift-hitch for the back instead

 

[Rustygears]

That is one beautiful piece of fabrication & design!

 

[treeguy]

Just cut up some 1/2" plates today, getting ready to start drilling and glueing. If anyone wants one, do you want angled cross bracing from the top vertical angled down to the 2x6 also kicked back to 2x6 rear edge to prevent tounge weight 2x6 twist. (moderators forgive me if this should now be moved to another forum, you can't really have conversation in the classified section to get suggestions, at this point I don't know where to continue posting)

 

[tm america]

probably best just to build it and put it in the classifieds..I'm sure someone will buy it.. If you want to improve your design its best to do it before selling them.. Cuz if it fails and someone gets hurt it could hurt your pocket book in a big way..At the very least i would make up some decals with the weight rating on it and i would unrate them to try to protect yourself as much as possible.If it were me i would put the braces close to the cross bar ..

 

[treeguy]

TM, can you draw me a pic? I get your other point, I was thinking of typing a disclamer, kind of like the hemmit rims for off road use only. The factory made hitch I weld to the bottom is rated for 3500# but I also add extra weld to it to compelte all the seams welded.

 

[tm america]

All i am saying is over build it and i would see what it takes to break one..because it isn't just what happens when things are right but more about what happens in an accident that will be the big test.Looking at the design i would be most conserned about the way it handles tongue weight and side to side shifting...PLease don't take my critizism the wrong way Just trying to look out for you.. Remember people will beat the heck out of things then when they fail act like they never did...This is the biggest problem with selling hitches..Imagaine someone yanking a deuce stuck up to the bumper out hooked to your hitch fatiguing it to the breaking point then hauling a full size truck home on the highway.This is the reason i don't sell the removable hitches i made..Will the hitch fail under normal use probably not ...Can someone make it fail yes..Will they want to take responsiblity when it breaks cuz they missused it .....NO

 

[tm america]

One place you might think of adding a triangle gusset is where the vertical tube meets the the cross tube .Running them from the tube towards the front of the truck would really add strength to the welds and help keep the vertical tubes bending in an accident.I'm looking at pic #4 page one.. This is where i would put the gussets.You might want to put some on the inside of the vertical tubes to those are gonna be the most critical points on your design.. If you did this i think it would be over kill enough that if it failed it would pretty much be easy to say they were misusing it

 

[treeguy]

This is what I had in mind. The new red supports would be 1"x2" solid bar double angle cut to match the verticals and run all the way thru the 2"x6" box. This will prevent left and right racking and having the base welded on the back side (tward front of truck) will prevent roll of the 2"x6" from tounge weight. But like I said before this might interfere with a rear mounted winch cable. What do you think?

 

[jesusgatos]

Not going to gain much/any strength using solid-bar vs. heavy-wall tubing.

 

[treeguy]

What would be the diff.? Box tubing would be more resilient to flex or bending than solid right? Solid bar would be relatively easier to bend the wide way than box, but wouldn't the new reinforcement make the whole rig triangularly rigid, though heiver with solid? I was also using solid to get more strength in a smaller package, I didn't want this thing to be too bulky and if you were to use box tubing you would need a thick wall and larger size. The 1" also fits better to the pad eyes on the shackle mounts, I drew it up originally with box but it was too complex attaching 1/2" plate for pad eyes and having to notch them in to 2x2 box tubing.