2" removable receivers

[jesusgatos]

There's just not much strength in the center of a piece of solid bar, and small diameter bars are not especially strong in compression (compared to larger diameter tubing). Also would avoid drilling/bolting to the top/bottom of the framerails if at all possible (I don't think that's even legal in some states). Would be a much better idea to use existing holes, and/or drill those hold in the sides of the framerails. There are a bunch of other threads about removable hitches, and I posted some of my thoughts in a few of those. Sorry, don't really feel comfortable posting too much more specific advice on a topic like this on a public forum. I'd just hate for someone to read what I've written and build something that ends up failing or hurting somebody (not saying that what you're building is dangerous or anything).

 

[tm america]

I would use 1/4 or3/8 plate cut into triangles.maybe like a 6 inch square cut diagnally put right in. The corners

 

[treeguy]

TM, thats what I thought you were getting at. What is this nonsence about government regulation on frame drilling. I have looked under the truck once or twice and there are no avalible holes to use. The only unused holes are on the crossmember almost above the last axle and I don't feel comfortable having pushing and pulling forces on a crossmember that is ment to stabilize the frame. So regarding Jesusgatos coments OMG!, now what, no production for sale, too much liability? This was just supposed to be an inconspicious hitch to quick on and off for the convienence of towing light civy trailers, NOT recovery of a stuck truck or tow equipment.

 

[tm america]

AS for drilling the top or bottom of the frame..It would be a big no no if you need a dot number.. but for most guys it doesn't matter..And thats only an issue on tempered frames ..But you need to really look into the laws and regulations before selling them to protect your butt.. The offroad use only thing gets you out of alot of bs.. Just remember what can go wrong will go wrong and you need to be prepared for it if it does.hitches are a high liabilty item to manufacture ..If you do things right and get a business liscense to do it and try to get business insurance for the building and your company most places won't even think about writing you a policy..Trust me i looked into it ....I"m just saying to cover yourself in all ways if you are planning on selling a hitch that you build..Sorry not trying to discurage you ..

 

[JasonS]

Like TM said, anything that can happen will; it's just a matter of time and chance. Can you get a P.E. to sign off/ certify? At least then, if something does happen, you can show that you did your due diligence to create a safe design.

 

[treeguy]

Consider me discouraged!

 

[JasonS]

Consider me discouraged!

Why? It's a great concept!

 

[jesusgatos]

Sorry, was trying be helpful, not to discourage you.

 

[jesusgatos]

Yeah, I agree with JasonS. No reason you can't build a safe quick-release receiver hitch. Just gotta put a little more thought into exactly how you ought to go about designing/making it. I started designing a quick-release 3-point hitch after seeing some of the hitches that other members have shared, but then realized that I'd be better-off just building a low-profile receiver hitch into the rear crossmember right below the pintle-hitch. Easier to carry around a drop-hitch than a whole removable hitch assembly.

 

[jesusgatos]

Something like this. Could be built even tighter if it was custom (instead of bolt-on). Nut even if that's not what you're looking for, it's a great example of how you could go about having these things built (find a company that's already in the business of manufacturing receiver hitches and get them to assume the liability).

 

[mudguppy]

This is what I had in mind. The new red supports would be 1"x2" solid bar double angle cut to match the verticals and run all the way thru the 2"x6" box. This will prevent left and right racking and having the base welded on the back side (tward front of truck) will prevent roll of the 2"x6" from tounge weight. But like I said before this might interfere with a rear mounted winch cable. What do you think?

if you're worried about the 2x6 twisting, welding the diagonals to the inboard portion of the 2x6 will not prevent this - the downward tongue weight is on the outward (rear) edge of the 2x6; therefore, the diagonals will actually encourage 'twisting' of the 2x6 once it starts to deflect.


your best bet is attach the diagonal exactly like you had sketched, but at the top/rear edge of the 2x6 - this will give you 3 things:

• lateral stability (your original intention)
• vertical support for the 2x6 cross bar preventing deflection across the minor axis
• resistance to 'twist' caused by the moment arm from tongue weight.

angled plate gussets will only give you the lateral stability.

oh, and Jesse's right about boxed vs solid - negligible advantage in strength and large disadvantage in weight comparisons. 3/16 - 1/4" walled tubing is plenty.



i think it looks like a great receiver - if i didn't already have one, i'd be asking how much you're selling for. big improvement!! and the fabrication quality is fantastic. sure doesn't look 'home-made'.

 

[treeguy]

Mudguppy, check the labels this pic. describing location of the angled bracing on the 2x6. I get what you are saying about the tounge weight twisting, that is why I was going to attach the bottom of the angled supports to the top edge of the 2x6 on the side opposite the receiver. This is what you are saying right? Which is the top/rear edge you were mentioning? Being at this spot if the weight on the tounge goes down theoretically the opposite side could go up pivioting on the welds of the uprights. The angled bracing being attached tward the front of the truck opposite the receiver will stop this forward edge from going up. I am just frustrated with all the liability issues, this is all for fun and to offer the oportunity to others to enjoy this hitch. I understand what everyone has said about the sue happy world and personal abuse of property ending up on the shoulders of manufacturers. I don't know what to say, thats why I'm trying to make it bulletproof. If I were to try to destroy it as a test I think that I would rip the frame of my truck appart. As a regard to drilling holes in your frame, how do you go about bobbing a deuce or adding a sweet ass crane to that baby hemmit without drilling any holes. I know we fall under the pull over for weigh stations bit, but this is a hobby, not hauling freight for a merchant. I'm not out to offend anyone and I greatly appreciate all the input, good bad or indeferent. Thanks guys, I'm going to build one with the new improvements once I get them all ironed out then take it from there. Is anyone interested it the front set up, home use, don't see any legal issues there. Cross loading should be at a minimum concidering the 1x2 is only hanging free for 3-1/2" and is notched into the 3x5 cross tube and partly welded on the inside as far as I can reach then capped. I could put some 1/2" triangles on the corners to stiffen if you are concerned.

 

[mudguppy]

Mudguppy, check the labels this pic. describing location of the angled bracing on the 2x6. I get what you are saying about the tounge weight twisting, that is why I was going to attach the bottom of the angled supports to the top edge of the 2x6 on the side opposite the receiver. This is what you are saying right? Which is the top/rear edge you were mentioning? ...

no - the other way around. mount the diagonals on the rearward edge, closest to the reciever opening (and thus the tongue weight).

it does seem logical that the diagonals attached at the front edge of the 2x6 would prevent the tiwist. however, these would do very little to combat vertical forces (tongue weight) from bending the 2x6 downward. and when it does bend downward, it will twist because of the diagonals holding the front 2x6 edge in place.

if you mount the diagonals on the rear edge (closest to the reciever), they will actually bear nearly the entire vertical load (tongue weight). this also minimizes the moment arm that the tongue weight will have to act on twisting the 2x6; and a 2x6 will resist end-encapsulated twisting (torsional deflection) much better than it can resist linear deflection across it's minor axis (bending downward across the 2" dimension).

you're just beefing the vulnerable areas and letting the positive attributes fend for themselves.




and as for the rest of the speculations in this thread; remember, that's exactly what they are (mine included, more like 'especially'). who the crap do you think is going to 'inspect' the deuce frame and be able to determine which hole is 'authorized' and which is not, let alone cite you for it.

liability? you'd have to rate it in order for you to be liable. no rating = user discretion and responsibility. rate it for x,000 lbs and you just created a certain threshold of liability - if it fails while performing under that rating, it could your fault as the 'manufacturer'.

actually, what i'd do is put a "For Offroad use ONLY" sticker on it if i sold them.

 

[treeguy]

Oh I see now what twisting forces you mean, I was thinking of the 2x6 staying whole and pivoting on the 1x2 upright weld points. Thank you very much for that info!

 

[mudguppy]

... I was thinking of the 2x6 staying whole and pivoting on the 1x2 upright weld points. ...

put a 4" triangular gussett on the frontside of the uprights to increase that footprint to span across all 6".

this thing will be bomb-proof soon.

 

[treeguy]

That was my idea exactly! Half inch plate! Side lapped or butt welded centered on the 1" face of the vertical, butt welding will offer 3 welds to the vertical and look better? I was going to triangle gussett the two uprights like you said, then use heavy walled 1"x2" box tubing for the angled supports and gusset them on the bottom to the 2x6 also. I was thinking of the orientation (tubing) 2" face vertical and the 1" face top and bottom. Seeing that these will be on an angle down I would put the bottom gussetts centered on the matching angle. This may not have the same strength as perpendicular but with the other gussetts on the verticals its almost bulletproof. I think it will make it look slick being on an angle. I was going to surface weld the bottom of the angled supports to the 2x6 top face because gouging out in this area will be too complicated with the receiver welded directly below. I think this should be fine because it doesn't have the hanging weight like the verticals, thats why I put them all the way thru. Thanks again! One of my concerns is warpage. The 2x6 warps down (slight rainbow) after welding the ..ll of the receiver to its bottom. All fitting must be done after this or it will be all out of wack. I could try to oppose the warp on the opposite side with clamps and bars while welding.

 

[treeguy]

Like this. Gussetts in green. This is where you ment to put the bottom edge of the angled supports right?

 

[mudguppy]

Like this. Gussetts in green. This is where you ment to put the bottom edge of the angled supports right?

i think that looks great.

oh, and i think surface welds would be fine with the right penetration (like i needed to mention that?). keep up the great work!!

 

[EMD567]

I love it. Now, will it fit a 5 ton?

 

[mudguppy]

I love it. Now, will it fit a 5 ton?

seems like it would if the rear shackle centerlines are the same as the deuce?