spicergear
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Yeah, anyway. I can pop start one deuce with another by myself!man i hate it when idiots get away un-scathed.
No really...I have.
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Yeah, anyway. I can pop start one deuce with another by myself!man i hate it when idiots get away un-scathed.
Ghost ride one?Yeah, anyway. I can pop start one deuce with another by myself!
No really...I have.
Ghost ride one?
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzpFDJfeXD0[/media]
Just from personal experience, go with the LBZ if you can. My LLY would over heat pulling an empty car trailer. I bought it new in 05 and traded it on an LBZ 13 months later. That truck (engine) was nothing but problems!If you do it, use a 2004.5 LLY engine or newer . The 2001-2004.5 LB7 have injector issues.
I have a piston, pin, and rod assembly from a multifuel on the shelf at my desk at work. A buddy tore one down, cleaned, painted the rod and gave it to me. It's pretty neat. It's pretty friggin heavy too...and heavy in the wrong places like the piston is heavy, the SOLID pin is heavy. The bottom of the rod however doesn't do much for one to think it's as beefy as the rest of the rod, plus the cap is indexed to one side and does not disassemble perpendicularly to the rod like most common connecting rods. In stock form they don't particularly need to have heavy bottom ends...and most diesels don't need too. They turn low revs, if they do anything they're supercharged in some form so they don't even have to work as hard being pulled back down the bore with boost pressure in the intake helping. Start revving them way above the governor and those big ends amy not stay round for too long. Oh, and don't forget the top end when it's spinning 4,000rpm too. Springs meant for 2,800 or less prolly won't keep the pistons in time at 4,000rpm. Cross your fingers on the keepers too.Iam going to get another LDS eng. an pull it apart ,an ck all moveing parts an send it out to get the bottom bal. x-ray crank,rods pistions. IT will be like the tractor pullers eng. only i am not gonna have 2 tubros or spray it. it .i just want it to run FREE . it schould turn 3-4000 rpm easy . scott (skidder)
Of course, get the best engine you feasibly can. But the newer and better you get, the harder to find and more expensive when you do. No matter which Duamax you pick, it's bound to be a substantial weight savings!Just from personal experience, go with the LBZ if you can. My LLY would over heat pulling an empty car trailer. I bought it new in 05 and traded it on an LBZ 13 months later. That truck (engine) was nothing but problems!
sorry, rant over...
A fool? Really? 'Cause I'd be inclined to keep the stock transfer-case and just use a transmission from a 2WD truck. You calling me stupid?...and you would be a fool to try to re-use the deuce transfer case. Get an entire driveline from a 4WD GMC 3500HD and drop the whole thing in place at once.
... you would be a fool to try to re-use the deuce transfer case. Get an entire driveline from a 4WD GMC 3500HD and drop the whole thing in place at once. ... T-case is NP261/263 and is pretty bombproof.
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i don't know about being a fool, but the point is valid and something i actually considered when doing my swap. the problem i found is that the available 4wd transfers all have a slip-yoke outputs - something i hate, but also something that would eliminate a park brake option. the cost of eliminating the slip yoke on the Dodge 'case and going back and adding a park brake isn't an inexpensive option. also, the Dodge front output is on the driver's side, as is the GM output - wrong side for a deuce. so, then you'll be looking at a transfer case swap/adaptation anyway.A fool? Really? 'Cause I'd be inclined to keep the stock transfer-case and just use a transmission from a 2WD truck. You calling me stupid?
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