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Duramax in a m35a2

spicergear

spicergear

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Wow...that's awful. Like I made it twenty seconds and stopped it AND that was hoping for a run over. Dude...

Anyway, ARMY of one has me most the time doing everything by myself and I needed to pull start my one deuce...with my crane truck. Got my sturdy grade 80 chain, hooked up, set the throttle for a fast idle on the crane truck and put her in low range and 1st or 2nd gear, got them both rolling then ran back to the other truck and put her in 2nd hi range and kicked her over a couple times. Tough part is that in low range it will just drag the tandems so you almost need to be in high range but because of how slow you're being pulled it wants to fire, but wants to stall too...so you have to just catch it at the right moment with the clutch in order to get the rpm's over that spot. Took me twice up to the front truck to correct steering but I got them going. Necessity is the mother of invention. Next ebay item should be a 24V charger. :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: Oh, and btw...all y'all- don't do what I do. I'm way overdue to get hurt. Should be a doozy this time.
 
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skidder

skidder

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Iam going to get another LDS eng. an pull it apart ,an ck all moveing parts an send it out to get the bottom bal. x-ray crank,rods pistions. IT will be like the tractor pullers eng. only i am not gonna have 2 tubros or spray it. it .i just want it to run FREE . it schould turn 3-4000 rpm easy . scott (skidder)
 
Rattlewagon

Rattlewagon

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goldwing2000 said:
If you do it, use a 2004.5 LLY engine or newer . The 2001-2004.5 LB7 have injector issues.
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Just from personal experience, go with the LBZ if you can. My LLY would over heat pulling an empty car trailer. I bought it new in 05 and traded it on an LBZ 13 months later. That truck (engine) was nothing but problems!

sorry, rant over...
 
spicergear

spicergear

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skidder said:
Iam going to get another LDS eng. an pull it apart ,an ck all moveing parts an send it out to get the bottom bal. x-ray crank,rods pistions. IT will be like the tractor pullers eng. only i am not gonna have 2 tubros or spray it. it .i just want it to run FREE . it schould turn 3-4000 rpm easy . scott (skidder)
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I have a piston, pin, and rod assembly from a multifuel on the shelf at my desk at work. A buddy tore one down, cleaned, painted the rod and gave it to me. It's pretty neat. It's pretty friggin heavy too...and heavy in the wrong places like the piston is heavy, the SOLID pin is heavy. The bottom of the rod however doesn't do much for one to think it's as beefy as the rest of the rod, plus the cap is indexed to one side and does not disassemble perpendicularly to the rod like most common connecting rods. In stock form they don't particularly need to have heavy bottom ends...and most diesels don't need too. They turn low revs, if they do anything they're supercharged in some form so they don't even have to work as hard being pulled back down the bore with boost pressure in the intake helping. Start revving them way above the governor and those big ends amy not stay round for too long. Oh, and don't forget the top end when it's spinning 4,000rpm too. Springs meant for 2,800 or less prolly won't keep the pistons in time at 4,000rpm. Cross your fingers on the keepers too.
 
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O

Outlaw86er

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I don't know if you guys have seen this or not but the guy in this video managed to put mechanical injection on the Duramax engine in this tractor. It looks like a lot of fabrication but it might make a swap more feasible if you're willing to put the effort or money into it. I'd imagine it would probably end up being easier to adapt a stock wiring harness but it is a possibility.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uk-2ViFLwPY[/media]
 
goldwing2000

goldwing2000

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Rattlewagon said:
Just from personal experience, go with the LBZ if you can. My LLY would over heat pulling an empty car trailer. I bought it new in 05 and traded it on an LBZ 13 months later. That truck (engine) was nothing but problems!

sorry, rant over...
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Of course, get the best engine you feasibly can. But the newer and better you get, the harder to find and more expensive when you do. No matter which Duamax you pick, it's bound to be a substantial weight savings!
 
Flat Black

Flat Black

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get on the diesel boards and start reading. Duramax engines of all years have been put into about everything you can imagine including boats and muscle cars.

There are companies that make stand alone engine management for the engine and trans and you would be a fool to try to re-use the deuce transfer case. Get an entire driveline from a 4WD GMC 3500HD and drop the whole thing in place at once.

Tons of mods available for the engine and trans and the only thing you need to do to the transfer case is fix the pump issue if yours is that year/series. Just google it. T-case is NP261/263 and is pretty bombproof.

(This will not be cheap)
 
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nathanaelslosson

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Thanks for all the advice keep it coming. I have a close buddy who graduated top of his class at Wyo, he said the more wild the build the more of a discount he'll give me on the work. He's getting tired of installing bolt-on parts.
 
Rattlewagon

Rattlewagon

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the more I think about it, not to derail the discussion or offense to the OP, I think I would be more inclined to drop a DT466 (not an E) in the truck and call it a day. Maybe I'm wrong, dunno.

I like the simplicity of it. But don't get me wrong, it would be a bad a@# to drop a dmax in a deuce. I just don't ever seeing me having the $$$.
 
spicergear

spicergear

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I wonder what injector pump they're using? I know my 1160 cat pump is an inline 8 like that. That is definately a Bosch pump however...
 
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mudguppy

mudguppy

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Flat Black said:
... you would be a fool to try to re-use the deuce transfer case. Get an entire driveline from a 4WD GMC 3500HD and drop the whole thing in place at once. ... T-case is NP261/263 and is pretty bombproof.
...
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jesusgatos said:
A fool? Really? 'Cause I'd be inclined to keep the stock transfer-case and just use a transmission from a 2WD truck. You calling me stupid?
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i don't know about being a fool, but the point is valid and something i actually considered when doing my swap. the problem i found is that the available 4wd transfers all have a slip-yoke outputs - something i hate, but also something that would eliminate a park brake option. the cost of eliminating the slip yoke on the Dodge 'case and going back and adding a park brake isn't an inexpensive option. also, the Dodge front output is on the driver's side, as is the GM output - wrong side for a deuce. so, then you'll be looking at a transfer case swap/adaptation anyway.

and, as we've discussed before, Jesse, i still believe that overall length is the issue and that you can't just grab any ol' 2wd trans. i know we have differing points of view on the 'ease' of relocating the deuce transfer, but i believe you will still be extremely limited on the engine/trans OAL combination affored by relocating the transfer.
 
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