Glow plugs?????????????

[EZFEED]

Are there glow plugs on a deuce? I was just looking at a pic in the one of the TM manuals and I don't see anything but an injection port/injector location.

No ignition circut?????? On all of my tractors I have to warm my plugs before cranking. What's up on this?

 

[acetomatoco]

Assuming you mean the multifuel deuce... There is a manifold heater... a little Diesel burning heater to warm the intake air for easier starting... activated by the spring loaded switch on lower left of dash...use of which is outlined in detail in the -10 RAM

 

[houdel]

Of course, many of the flame heater engines were converted to ether start. They don't use a lot of ether, a 13 oz cylinder is good for 200 or so shots. Than figures out to about 2.66 cc per shot, less that 1/2 cc per cylinder. Not enough ether to wash lube oil off the cylinder walls or damage the engine by premature ignition, just enough to give each cylinder a little "whiff" of ether to raise the cylinder temp enough to fire off the diesel.

 

[Armada]

No glow plugs on a multi fuel. Just very high compression for ignition.

 

[steelsoldiers]

It was nice not to have to worry about glow plugs on at least one of my trucks! Unless it gets REAL cold in LA you shouldn't have to worry about the flame heater or ether. Mine always started in WV no matter the temp. I always cranked it a few times with the fuel off to get some oil moving. Then, open the fuel and PUFF she started on about the third revolution!

 

[Armada]

Chris did you have a manual cut-off valve for your fuel? The pump is running as soon as the power is turned on for cranking. Unless it's not a duece you are talking about....

 

[EZFEED]

Interesting!

I'm so used to gasoline engines and the Diesels I am used to. I never thought that just compression would ignite the diesel/air mixture. OK.....now I feel like a total dumbass!!!! LOL!

 

[PWM]

It has been cold here the last few days, down to -18 degrees. Yesterday I went out to start my deuce it was about -1 with some fresh snow. My flame heater is not working and I have yet to install the battery heaters. It took several tries but she roared to life. It knocked a bit for a couple of seconds and then smoothed out to it usual purr. I have a new set of CAT batteries and I think they are worth every $. That same day a friends 6.2 GM diesel would not start, mainly because of the old batteries.

 

[jdmcgowen]

I love these engines so far

 

[Bighurt]

I have a new set of CAT batteries and I think they are worth every $. That same day a friends 6.2 GM diesel would not start, mainly because of the old batteries.

I have a 71' that's been sitting for months, not that I plan to play with it now, but I'd like to get the moth balls out next spring. I'm up here in ND currently still above 0°F, but I've seen -35°F and below ambient. That being said my current batteries are shot; cracked, dry and broken terminals. They need replacement, curious as to where you purchased the CAT batteries and the price range.

I've read el cheapo walmart's work, and the 6TL's are $168, so just trying to find other options. Anybody running Omtima's?

Thanks
Jeremy

 

[LanceRobson]

What SS is writing about is this: pull the ENGINE STOP out and crank the engine for 8-10 seconds to get the oil filters started on filling up. Then, start it normally. Pumping the fuel pedal when cranking a big no-no.

If you don't do this, then, especially, when it's starting to get a little cold (15-20) degrees) you'll notice the engine starts with a LOT of vibration and is very sluggish until the oil pressure begins to register on the gauge. (insert a mental picture of metal scrapings flying everywhere here...) The engine will crank faster and start a lot quicker if you crank it with the engine stop pulled out first.

Besides, the PM Mag guide for the multifuel operator states that you should always crank the engine that way to check for hydrostatic lock before starting it.

Approach the process of starting any multifuel with dead batteries with caution. If the master switch was left on, the tank pump was running for a day or two. There's a fair chance that some fuel was pushed through the high pressure pump and on into the engine. Give the starter button a short firm stab (a wishy-washy push can cause enough electrical arcing in it to burn it out) and get off the button. If things went "clunk" or attempted to crank and stopped with a bump, stop and find out why.

For those looking for batteries: Interstate is one of the current contactors. Find one of their commecial dealers and ask for U6TLs. They should be able to get blemished batteries for a good price.

Lance

 

[m16ty]

Interesting!

I'm so used to gasoline engines and the Diesels I am used to. I never thought that just compression would ignite the diesel/air mixture. OK.....now I feel like a total dumbass!!!! LOL!

All diesel engines rely on compression to ignite the fuel. Even ones with glow plugs. All the glow plugs do is warm the air upon startup then shut off. The glow pugs in no way cause the engine to "fire".

 

[buccaneer]

Clarify Please

Pumping the fuel pedal when cranking a big no-no....


The engine will crank faster and start a lot quicker if you crank it with the engine stop pulled out first....


Lance

I'm by no means being a smartXXX but need some clarification re: a few things.

I understand that pumping the pedal would be a no-no, but what about holding the throttle at just less than 1000 RPMs??

TM 9-2320-361-10 section2-14 specifically states to push the engine stop control in before starting.

 

[Bighurt]

TM 9-2320-361-10 section2-14 specifically states to push the engine stop control in before starting.

Depends on the model year etc. however my -10 manual has you pull out the lever and check for hydrostatic lock prior to starting as stated by Lance. It than has you re engage fuel control and start as normal.

However for cold weather starts below 20°F it has you pull the throttle half way out depress accelerator pedal two thirds of the way while depressing starter switch.

Again depends on the vehicle...but I imagine they are all similar for continuity purposes.

Cheers

 

[buccaneer]

Depends on the model year etc. however my -10 manual has you pull out the lever and check for hydrostatic lock prior to starting as stated by Lance. It than has you re engage fuel control and start as normal.

However for cold weather starts below 20°F it has you pull the throttle half way out depress accelerator pedal two thirds of the way while depressing starter switch.

Again depends on the vehicle...but I imagine they are all similar for continuity purposes.

Cheers

That's very interesting. I haven't read the whole (500page) manual and more detailed info may be in there somewhere...

Thanks

 

[Bighurt]

Its mostly pictures, no offense but its an Army Technical Manual...

Cheers

 

[buccaneer]

HA HA no offense taken... it's actually more of a time issue!
I did notice the directions were pretty darn basic! haha

 

[Blacksmoke]

No need to feel dumb EZ. Just for comparison, the deuce has a compression ratio of 22:1 & my Powerstroke is 17:1. I never use the flame heater but it's usually not that cold here either.

 

[PsycoBob]

There's a "Multifuel Operator's Manual" that's well worth a read. Repeatedly reminds you that a 'driver' pushes pedals and steers- an 'operator' understands the quirks of his platform.

http://old.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?set_albumName=album36&name=gallery&include=view_album.php

 

[Bighurt]

Good Read, anyone actually have the pamphlet? I'm not old enough to have had it issued but I'm curious to see if anyone that was kept one. I'll tell you one thing, that would never fly in today's DOD....

Cheers