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Guess I'm looking at head gaskets

ca1517

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I have some 307 rods that are for welding cast. If you think they may be of help, I would be happy to give you a pound or so. As for welding the cast iron, it is a real pain in tha a$$. I have welded on some tractor parts, and it seems to work lots better when the piece is preheated. Let me know if I can be of help.
 

patracy

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The nomacast rods seem to work out the stresses very well. But getting an arc started is terrible with them. The main reason I tried the nomacast is the fact they advertise no pre/post heat. But I did take it very slowly only welding 1/2 to 3/4" max at a time and letting it cool before trying in another section. (Cool enough that I could put my finger on the weld)
 

patracy

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Yup, that's pretty much what I ended up doing as well. Tap starting these rods ain't happening!
 

patracy

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Well not much to report. I did grind down the excess jb weld and honed the cyl to allow the old sleeve to slide in and out. I'm going to let it cure one more day before I stick the new liner in. I picked up a tube of ultra copper silicone as well. It can withstand 600F continuous and 700F intermediate. I've also taken one of the liners and tossed it in the freezer to gain a little extra clearance for the install. Hope the wife doesn't open up the fridge. :mrgreen:
 

rnd-motorsports

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With all the time and the money you will have in that block , That may or may not work I think I would get another block a lot of work to find out its not going to work! With all you have done I hope it works for you Good luck! high five to you for trying!:beer: Fingers crossed!
 

patracy

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A lot of money? $12.95 for the rods (still have a lot left!), $8.95 for jb weld, $7.95 for alumiseal. I already bought the head gaskets. And the liner kit was really cheap. For the block repair part I'll have maybe $50 in it.
 

G-Force

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Pa,
You might want to block off the lower radiator hose and fill the block up with parts cleaner or something thin, or even gas (extreme) and let it sit for a few hours to see if the weld is porous anyplace. I'd hate to see you put it all the way back together and just be back to square one. And since it is apart if the weld is porous and leaking now is the time to find out and fix it.
I'm not trying to tell you what to do but I'm also the kind of person who only likes to do things once and not wind up knowing all the nut and bolts on a first name basis if you know what I mean.
Good luck and let us know how it works out....
 

patracy

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Yup, I've been thinking about doing something like that. Probably give it a try this afternoon.
 

patracy

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Sprayed a lot of parts cleaner on the inside of the water jacket. Also poured acetone inside the jacket. No weeping on the jacket. So I added a bit of silicone to the jacket. Slid the frozen jacket in while rotating it to spread the silicone. Got the 5 other liners in as well. But my snap ring pliers broke on me, so I didn't get the pistons swapped on the rods. Going to pick up a better set tomorrow and get them swapped over and hopefully installed. Since things ended up a bust, I took the kids for a ride in the woods and had a blast.
 

Cantregister

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Hope everything works ok for you. I've had JB Weld loose adhesion and flake off under high temps so if it does start to leak again, might be something to consider.
 
I agree with most of the ideas so far. If you have a leak in the oil cooler it would seem to me that, while running, oil would be leaking into the coolant. If this is happening the oil will usually accumulate on top of the coolant in the radiator/expansion tank. Remove the cap and look.
I don't have the familiarity with this engine to venture much else. Theer may be several "typical" places this occurs.
I have a friend that served in motor pool in the Army. If I see him soon I'll ask him for an opinion.

e
 

patracy

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Hope everything works ok for you. I've had JB Weld loose adhesion and flake off under high temps so if it does start to leak again, might be something to consider.
Honestly the JB weld that is left in the water jacket is more like "bondo" now. It's not bonding anything together. It's just filling in the imperfections in the jacket.

I agree with most of the ideas so far. If you have a leak in the oil cooler it would seem to me that, while running, oil would be leaking into the coolant. If this is happening the oil will usually accumulate on top of the coolant in the radiator/expansion tank. Remove the cap and look.
I don't have the familiarity with this engine to venture much else. Theer may be several "typical" places this occurs.
I have a friend that served in motor pool in the Army. If I see him soon I'll ask him for an opinion.

e
That was the first thing I checked, but while I had this all apart, I took the cooler off and replaced the gaskets again. I took the cooler to a radiator shop and had it pressure tested as well.

As for today, I swapped out the single port oil squirters to the double ports that came with the liners. I also swapped my rods over to the new pistons and cleaned them up (bearings and bolts). The squirters were a bit more work than I expected. My bear claws didn't fit so well. I'm pretty much flying solo on this, so I'll work on installing the pistons/rods into the block a little tomorrow and thursday. (Not looking forward to climbing up and down a dozen or more times.)
 
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G-Force

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Honestly the JB weld that is left in the water jacket is more like "bondo" now. It's not bonding anything together. It's just filling in the inperfections in the jacket.



That was the first thing I checked, but while I had this all apart, I took the cooler off and replaced the gaskets again. I took the cooler to a radiator shop and had it pressure tested as well.

As for today, I swapped out the single port oil squirters to the double ports that came with the liners. I also swapped my rods over to the new pistons and cleaned them up (bearings and bolts). The squirters were a bit more work than I expected. My bear claws didn't fit so well. I'm pretty much flying solo on this, so I'll work on installing the pistons/rods into the block a little tomorrow and thursday. (Not looking forward to climbing up and down a dozen or more times.)
Ah come on Pa........you know you could use the exercise!!!!!:grin:
 

nk14zp

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Ah come on Pa........you know you could use the exercise!!!!!:grin:
Honestly the JB weld that is left in the water jacket is more like "bondo" now. It's not bonding anything together. It's just filling in the inperfections in the jacket.



That was the first thing I checked, but while I had this all apart, I took the cooler off and replaced the gaskets again. I took the cooler to a radiator shop and had it pressure tested as well.

As for today, I swapped out the single port oil squirters to the double ports that came with the liners. I also swapped my rods over to the new pistons and cleaned them up (bearings and bolts). The squirters were a bit more work than I expected. My bear claws didn't fit so well. I'm pretty much flying solo on this, so I'll work on installing the pistons/rods into the block a little tomorrow and thursday. (Not looking forward to climbing up and down a dozen or more times.)
You should have parked like Gimp.rofl
 

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Cantregister

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Honestly the JB weld that is left in the water jacket is more like "bondo" now. It's not bonding anything together. It's just filling in the inperfections in the jacket.
Nothing say manliness like the fixing your cylinder block with JB Weld! Kidding, I actually respect the effort to fix the block. Minus the effort, even if it doesn't work, you aren't out much money.
 

patracy

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Ah come on Pa........you know you could use the exercise!!!!!:grin:
Yeah, my fatarse surely could use the exercise. But lazyness prevailed yesterday. :lol:

Nothing say manliness like the fixing your cylinder block with JB Weld! Kidding, I actually respect the effort to fix the block. Minus the effort, even if it doesn't work, you aren't out much money.
That's my thoughts as well. The cracked block wasn't preventing it from running. Just allowing coolant to slowly mix into the oil. So at worst, I'm out $50 in block repair, $50 in oil, and $120 in gaskets. If it does leak again, I'll just get another block and swipe my liners/pistons out of this one and overhaul the next engine before the swap.
 

patracy

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Well I didn't get as far as I hoped. Only got the oil pan back on and picked up the heads from the shop today. I'll get the heads torqued down tomorrow though.
 

rnd-motorsports

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I will almost bet you will be fine with your repair! with the sleeve and all seems like it will be fine. the great feeling is yet to come . That moment when it rumbles to life will be great! then the thought I did it! :beer:
 
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