Gotta get movin and dont know what the problem is...

[choll]

The gen 1 and gen 2 light must come on when the truck is not running. If they are not coming on when you turn the key the batteries will not charge.

 

[salt6]

Two or three more

Is the wiring in the last two photos of the firewall correct? I'm at the point that I need to wire up this area.

 

[topgun217]

Great, your truck runs! But tell us what you did. Did the engine turn over at all when you started this thread? Or did it turn over after you charged the batteries ? Help us, help you !

 

[badassissimo]

Great, your truck runs! But tell us what you did. Did the engine turn over at all when you started this thread? Or did it turn over after you charged the batteries ? Help us, help you !

The engine was turning over when I bought it about a year ago. When I started this thread, it was not turning over. I think I must have got a wire to connect when I took the fuse box off the firewall and put it back. Could be when I cleaned the guages too. Might have been a bad connection there too.

I'm not sure how to get the gen 1 and 2 lights to come on. I took some excess wire and tested the copper lines for connectivity and had no problem. I'm not sure where along the harness it is faulty or if it is just the generators. Either way, I'm clueless and hope the generators will still charge the batteries as they turn. Two bulbs do light and go off. I can't remember what they're labeled. They're at the top of the guage cluster above the speedo.

Unfortunately, I'm also willing to belive the wiring is faulty because I went to start the truck today and the harness to the battery turned into a welding torch and melted half the post of one of the batteries. Why? I guess I didn't get it tight enough. I'll test that tomorrow. In the meantime, I hope that never happens again. Especially since I only have half a post of a 115 dollar battery to work with.

Does anyone have a picture of the leads coming off the 12v step? I need to find that for the electric fans. Also, one of the black out light switches turns on the horn. Interesting... I'm curious if the headlights will work now. I'll find that out tomorrow. I need a torch to burn out two bolts that are seized on the radiator support. Possible to use the truck's battery leads? lol. Anyone know if lowe's or home depot has something suitable for burning out two bolts? Thanks.

Nick

 

[badassissimo]

Back on wiring again, I went to test the lights and when I pull out the light switch, nothing happens... However, when I switch the blackout light closest to the steering wheel up, they come on. Unfortunately, the horn comes on as well.... I unplugged the horn for the moment but for the registration, it has to work. I was looking to see if wires were crossed but I can't think where. On the light switch and steering wheel, the pigtails are the same as on my c10. The headlight harness is the same going into the firewall as well. Only thing I can think of is the fuse box but that tangle of wild hair is confusing. Anyhow, the second problem is that the the headlights all blew out when I unplugged the horn. So, without the horn, the headlights blow. I don't have a clue why that is or how to stop it. I'm going to try to wire up the harness to the switch directly but I still need to know where the 12v step is and how it works. I also gotta wire up the horn directly and don't know where that is either...

Is there any problem if I start wires off of one of the batteries or will that try to pull 24v volts through the lights as well? Let me know if you have any thoughts. Thanks.

Nick

 

[badassissimo]

Here are some more pics:

 

[badassissimo]

Correct wiring

Is the wiring in the last two photos of the firewall correct? I'm at the point that I need to wire up this area.

I honestly can't answer that question at this point. Hopefully someone finds us and fixes us.

Nick

 

[badassissimo]

Correct wiring

I'm thinking that until I get a TM, wiring will have to wait... In the meantime, I bought two new headlights and about 60 dollars of wiring to hook up the horn and headlights for inspection. Luckily, I have another wiring harness so I don't have to chew up the one on the m1009. Once this is over, I'll look at fixing the m1009 wiring and finding out why my headlights blew out. With any luck the trooper will be by this afternoon and I'll have registration applied for this afternoon. All the parts on the c10 I was going to use will have to come off some other time I guess.

Nick

 

[badassissimo]

Can someone tell me if these are the TM's I would need to fix the wiring? I know they're free on the site when it comes back online but depending on how bad this situation gets, I may just buy em.

CUCV Military Truck Manuals in PDF Format (10 Manuals) | eBay

Nick

 

[Warthog]

You can download them for free on JATONKA's website.

www.jatonkasm35s.com

We have post this site a gazzion times....

Besides, you are not allowed to post any live auction links in the forums...

 

[badassissimo]

You can download them for free on JATONKA's website.

www.jatonkasm35s.com

We have post this site a gazzion times....

Besides, you are not allowed to post any live auction links in the forums...

Sorry. I was thinking of posting an eample at the time and didn't even think about the auction being a problem. Sorry again.

I'm glad I got a post on the thread. I was starting to think it turned into a diary. lol.

I'll get the TM sometime after work today and try to see what is the problem. I started guessing yesterday and decided the 12v resistor had fried or become irresistant. It would explain why the headlights blew, the running lights are bright and hot and the flasher circuits blew. Haven't got a clue why the fuses are still good if the gen1, 2, and volt guage still aren't online. The TM should help I guess.

If it does turn out to be the 12v resistor at any point along the way, how would I go about that repair? Oreilly's says they don't have any. Is this something I can find at radioshack and just rig on? I may find hawkman again. He seems to have all the parts I've needed thus far.

Nick

 

[badassissimo]

In other news, the truck is running just well enough to not get towed while I hide it at work.

 

[mistaken1]

In other news, the truck is running just well enough to not get towed while I hide it at work.

Progress is good. Glad to hear you are making some.

The resistor is used strictly for dropping the 24V down to 12V to feed the glow plugs. You can always bypass the resistor and feed the glow plug relay with 12V.

If someone wired 24V directly into the 12V terminal block (diamond shaped one on the drivers side firewall) that would create many uhh problems.

 

[badassissimo]

TM

Progress is good. Glad to hear you are making some.

The resistor is used strictly for dropping the 24V down to 12V to feed the glow plugs. You can always bypass the resistor and feed the glow plug relay with 12V.

If someone wired 24V directly into the 12V terminal block (diamond shaped one on the drivers side firewall) that would create many uhh problems.

Yeah, I'm hoping the TM's warthog found are going to help me figure out what happened. I actually have time today to look at them and see what can be done. With any luck, I'll get the wiring figured out and drop back to the original wiring. If it isn't a problem, I'll keep the batteries in the back unless that is the problem. I had hoped that the 12v resistor was the problem but I guess it isn't from your description. Will know more later.

Nick

 

[badassissimo]

Ok, I got a hold of all the wiring diagrams in the 9-2320-289-20 TM. Looking at the F-3 for Starting Circuits (All but m1010), I realize that there should be a smaller wire (RED-2A SXL) going from battery 2 (REAR) negative terminal to the (BLU-2B) splice labeled THERMO HW at the ENG WRG HARNESS BLOCK. I started to look for what had substituted that and ran out of daylight. On the POS TERM BD, there are two blue wires. I think maybe a blue wire there should be connected to the negative terminal of the battery2 instead of on the positve terminal block. This might be exactly what mistaken1 was talking about. Hopefully that is only one of two changes. There is a wire for the passenger side that I don't know what does or where it goes. It's a large terminal plate but it doesn't fit the larger terminal on the alternator. Not sure what to do about that. I'm still trying to get the wiring casing off so I can see were everything currently goes. With any luck, this voltage problem goes away and I can just pop in the flashers from the c10 to get the inspection over with.

Because I have to run a wire from behind the passenger seat, I'm considering parts to relocate the batteries to the engine compartment. Not sure I want to buy parts to run 2 guage wires again though. Not sure how to cut losses on that.

Nick

 

[badassissimo]

Thank you again for the link to the TM's. It did turn out to be the same wire I had mentioned earlier. Instead of being connected to the battery in the proper location, there was a substitued pair of 12g wire running to the positive terminal. I disconnected it and found that the spare wire near the alternator was indeed the wire that belonged. Having worked around the batteries being moutned behind the passenger seat, I clamped the substitute wires (because they're about 12 feet long) with the 2 or 4 or whatever guage wire and tried connecting all that to the correct terminal. No dice. I guess that the substitute wire was in place to bypass this wire as it has no connectivity. The next step is to drop by Lowe's and pick up a 2/4 guage wire to run from the engine terminal block to the battery terminal. With any luck, this will solve some issues. The truck seemed to want to have normal operation. The lights seem less bright and the dash lights are coming on like before. The light next to the wait light didn't come on but that can be addressed when the batteries are charged again.

While I wait for the batteries to charge, I'll be addressing the alternator issue to try and see if the casing is repairable. I've got my fingers crossed that two spot welds with extra padding will make it happen. In addition, I'll be looking at bleeding the brakessince the brake cylinder no longer leaks. Hopefully, the truck will stop on command without needing the parkin brake after today.

To finish the electrical side, I'll get the flashers out of the c10 at the storage lot and find something to test for 12 versus 24 volt current before I blow that up again if it isn't fixed. From reading the wiring diagram, I'd say I got it on track though.

As you look at the pictures, ignore the red wire coming off of both batteries. One was connected for the electric fans and the other was going to run to the engine wiring harness block but I'll be upgrading that guage wire this afternoon now that I know what it should be and where it goes. I'm guess the terminal rings will be automotive and not at lowes. Could'nt seem to find them this morning when I got the 12g wire.

Also, enjoy the picture of the fuel tank on the jerry rigged pickup.

 

[badassissimo]

Update

Ok, I found a mutlimeter to test for 0-200dcv. Hopefully I'll know more about the truck before long. The lightbar mounts came in yesterday and aren't complete.... Found a different set on ebay and got that on the way. Also bought a 15ft cable to go from the battery to the post where the cable had failed to have connectivity earlier. Off to work in a little while. Won't be online much if at all till Monday.

 

[badassissimo]

Keep thinking I'll be off work and it doesn't happen!

I got the new cable on the truck. I accidentally got 2 instead of 4 guage but I can't see that holding the truck back. The truck finally has a 12v system. I still need to find out what happenned to the charging system because the lights still don't come on for the generators. I'll have to dig out the tm and check wires I guess. With the new wiring, there is a clicking sound while the wait light is on. Not sure why.... Got new light bar mounts but I haven't had a chance to see if they fit. I also am finding more bad connections down around the fuse box. The control wire for starting and the headlights all have loose connections. I hope I can find out which one is loose for the generators.

 

[badassissimo]

Not sure if anyone still waits for updates on this post.

I got the truck registered. I installed the license plate on the tailgate and found an illuminator to go over it. I also installed an emergency hatch from a school bus where the fume hood was for a generator that was mounted in the back. It looks ok. I think color is the biggest problem. Shouldn't look so awkward when the lightbar goes up. With any luck, I can crack on the TM and figure out how to get the gen bulbs lighting. I have a radiator on the way because the old one is rotted according to the repairman I took it to. Makes sense. Wouldn't circulate and it's bleeding all around. With that installed, I can run the truck and check for charging.

 

[GPrez]

You have a lot more patience than I do. The wiring on your truck sounded like a disaster after reading this thread. Glad you got it all worked out. I'd put the batteries in the engine compartment if you haven't already.