Master Switch and Terminal Block

[Tinwoodsman]

I am installing a relay switch and terminal block to handle some 24V accessories (fan, dome light, etc) and I want to control the relay and terminal block via the master switch. My plan it to come off the #27 wire on the master switch to the relay. What is the best way to tie into wire 27?

 

[gimpyrobb]

I am installing a relay switch and terminal block to handle some 24V accessories (fan, dome light, etc) and I want to control the relay and terminal block via the master switch. My plan it to come off the #27 wire on the master switch to the relay. What is the best way to tie into wire 27?

I would use wire. I have had some issues with air-coupling. Does it have a Packard connector on it? You could get one of the Y adapters to put in there.

 

[Sevin7]

I have had some issues with air-coupling.

It works for lightening.

 

[Tinwoodsman]

Gimp. Not sure what you mean by air connector. Do you mean connecting at the front airlock switch instead of the the master? I believe I am leaning toward using a dual connector off #27 at the master and feeding one side the the relay. Thanks,

 

[DieselBob]

I think one of your metal legs just got pulled there . I would make my own "Y" cable from OEM rubber connectors instead of just using a regular splice. I like the idea of being able to return to stock and if something goes wrong with the added circuits it's easy to disable them but still have the normal master switch function.

 

[cranetruck]

I am installing a relay switch and terminal block to handle some 24V accessories (fan, dome light, etc) and I want to control the relay and terminal block via the master switch. My plan it to come off the #27 wire on the master switch to the relay. What is the best way to tie into wire 27?

I would use wire #10, add a circuit breaker and have it all separate from the original wiring. Agree with dieselbob, easy to restore to original too.
In the diagram, note how accessories are added from the "horn" breaker area.

 

[Tinwoodsman]

Gee. Something was pulled and I didn't feel a thing. I have all the connectors and plan to make the connection reversible as suggested. I chose wire #27 so the terminal block was controlled by the master switch through the relay I will install. Is #10 controlled the same way?

 

[cranetruck]

Gee. Something was pulled and I didn't feel a thing. I have all the connectors and plan to make the connection reversible as suggested. I chose wire #27 so the terminal block was controlled by the master switch through the relay I will install. Is #10 controlled the same way?

Backtracking a little, okay, let the #27 drive the relay coil, just feed the contacts via a circuit breaker from #10 (horn breaker).

 

[treeguy]

In the future when adding electrical accessories to my truck I will be using this set up. Right now its only rigged for 12V but I will be adding an identical fuse/distribution block for 24V use. This is the simplest way I figure, its how boats are done (these are boat products). I love how MV's utilize fuses - not! I can do electrical but I still am not totally filled in on the electrical protection in these trucks. I know that there are some sort of breakers that self reset? Any way I don't want to try and mess around with whats already under the dash - spagetti - so this is my solution. A 24V fuse/distribution block can be mounted most anywhere and all you have to do is pull a + and - wire of the last battery (dag simple). The shiny rectangle box in the pic is a 24v to 12v 25 amp converter which is fed from the top battery switch which is fed thry a fuse from the MAIN bottom battery switch. This is to isolate the 12v system. The converter's output then goes to a single 12v battery under the seat and then the + and - from that feed the 12v fuse/distribution block. The battery under the seat is grounded to the ground of the main truck battery set. The converter is more than capable to power the two 100w KC's seen in the second picture. The HD battery switches are what I have mentioned before about a secret kill switch. These are the Blue Sea switches from West Marine but come in red off the shelf, if you want the black they will have to special order them. Just my 2 c' but I don't want to limit myself to one "Y" under the dash to power more than one item. Hope this helps someone.

 

[cranetruck]

..... This is the simplest way I figure, its how boats are done (these are boat products). I love how MV's utilize fuses - not! I can do electrical but I still am not totally filled in on the electrical protection in these trucks. I know that there are some sort of breakers that self reset?...

The thermal circuit breakers will cycle off and back on until overload is removed. saves running around for fuses...
The marine stuff is good but, terribly overpriced IMHO. I like to follow the example of aircraft wiring in some cases and military surplus hardware is hard to beat, both quality and price.

 

[Tinwoodsman]

My plan includes a separate circuit breaker from the battery to the relay.

 

[steelandcanvas]

I would make my own "Y" cable from OEM rubber connectors instead of just using a regular splice. I like the idea of being able to return to stock and if something goes wrong with the added circuits it's easy to disable them but still have the normal master switch function.

I have done all my electrical modifications the same way, easy to return to stock, and I like the "factory look" when I'm done. I purchased my Mil-Spec connectors and wire from Erik's Surplus.