Recent content by dagsurplus

Perhaps this thread will save some poor sap a lot of time, effort, sweat, and frustration in the future. No matter how hard I lift and pried on the black rear seat handle, no matter how much lubricant I spayed everywhere, it didn't budge. I could not find the reason for this in previous...

M1009 A Serial Number (VIN): 1G8ED18J9FF192239 B Registration Number: NF0C5W C NSN: 2320011232665 D Where you bought it: GL; Sharpe Depot; French Camp, CA E Bumper numbers: not legible; trash inside cab indicates it spent time at Camp Hunter Leggett; N. of San Luis Obispo, CA. Thanks.

I went to Amazon and looked; had no idea that there are so many crimping tool options for large wire sizes. Many seem to be knock offs of Greenlee and other name brand companies with prices in the multiple 100s or 1000s. I'm curious if any member of Steel Soldiers can vouch for a specific...

So what crimpers would you recommend for this size connection? I agree that all the battery cables should be changed to OEM for the CUCV; will do this. That said, this truck came from GL; thus, it was presumably the military that installed the non-original, wimpy cable. Thanks for the tip on...

There are no manufacturer or other identification marks on this. It is probably the 20th crimper I've owned; by far, the best. It's a ratcheting type; results in a lot of crimping power. I think I got it online through an electronics supply house; about $50 I think. Money very well spent.

PROBLEM SOLVED. I must tell you that all my Volt Meter investigation did not solve the problem; it was solved with DIVINE INTERVENTION. After about 3 hrs of Volt Meter work, I decided to start at the beginning, at the batteries, check these new ones (manufactured Feb., 2013) under a load. I...

They were grounded to the intake manifold.

All fuses already checked for continuity.

Totally agree; that the first things I did when the truck first came of the trailer; Doghead Mod. Doubt that the new Doghead relay has gone bad with 0 miles.

Batteries disconnected during IP work. Only wires removed were the three attached to the IP and the three at the back of engine near fuel filter: large black 24V ground, gold mesh, and other wire. All now connected to block. Here are some photos:

In trying to think about what I could have done during the IP removal/installation to cause this problem, the most obvious things are electrical connections, which I've cleaned and rechecked and they all seem fine. The only other seemingly material things I did during the IP stuff was lay on...

All fuses checked. All look fine. Bottom one (10A) replaced anyway. Nothing.

Biggin. It's approaching 100F so my thinking may be a bit clouded but I think the batteries are connected properly; I do get 24V at 24V block and 12 at 12V block. The driver's side alternator is grounded at the front of the engine to the cooling water manifold; was not disconnected during IP...

Warthog. There are 12V at that terminal block.

After installing new IP, I attached everything but the intake manifold in order to check for leaks before total reassembly. Attached the three wires near the fuel filter--the large ground wire coming from 24 V negative block, the gold braided wire, and the other one-- to the engine block...